Fuel tank selector valve.

[JDCAVE]

Can anyone recognize the make of this fuel selector valve. It seems the valve stem has worked its way out of the valve body about 3/4” and the handle no longer turns.
What it used to look like:


What it looks like now:





I had detached the mount to get a better look at the valve. Googling “Reverso” and fuel tank selector valve brings no luck. With the tanks shut off, I wonder if the the nut on the valve body can be backed off and the stem pushed back into place. Any thoughts on this? Possible replacement? Clearances are an issue in this location so fancy manifolds may be problematic.

Thanks Jim

 

[Larry M]

Jim: It looks like a Groco bronze fuel valve?

 

[Lou_tribal]

I have a similar one on my boat and the stem also looks long that way. Mine is working fine but is hard to move, I mean not hard like I need a wrench but harder than an usual valve.

L

 

[DavidM]

It looks like a Groco 6 port fuel selector valve like this one: https://www.groco.net/products/valves-seacocks/fuel-valves/fv-6-port-series

It has two three way valves ganged on one body. The front valve selects tank for the fuel supply for the engine and the smaller one behind selects the return.

Amazon has them for $152- https://www.amazon.com/GROCO-FUEL-V...mr0&keywords=graco+6+port+fuel+selector+valve

David

 

[JDCAVE]

Thanks guys. Thats exactly what it is. I will phone Groco. Their technical department was very helpful in the past.

 

[JDCAVE]

From Groco: “On reviewing the photos this might not be a GROCO fuel valve.
Our handles are stamped GROCO Stevensville MD on one side
But most of these type valves should come apart.”
heading up Johnstone Strait and it’s snotty!

 

[LarryM]

I think you will find it is an Anderson Brass Six Port Valve. Try them at 1.800.476.9876.

 

[Tom.B]

Man... talk about a single point of failure. There is a lot going on in a small space there and it doesn’t look very easy to get to. Good luck.

 

[HopCar]

Here is the website for Reverso Reverso Fuel Polishing Systems, Diesel Filtration, Transfer Pumps and Oil Change Systems
They are in Ft. Lauderdale.
Like LarryM, I think the valve was made by Anderson Brass. Reverso makes oil and fuel transfer pumps. They probably made the valve mount and label.

 

[JDCAVE]

Here’s the update. I talked to Ron at Anderson Brass. After considerable discussion and review of the photos, he said they used to sell a 6-Port valve to Reverso with full 360degree rotation. The item is SP2381CMTP-2. It’s a slightly different in its configuration so the sign will have to be changed.

Also, the valve is not serviceable. Once the valve seat gets scored, it needs to be replaced. I have a contact for Canada as Anderson does not sell directly to the public.

Edit: I also talked to Reverso: it’s a FVA-8-6, and they have discontinued the item. So I still have to source it from Anderson.

 

[Xsbank]

JD, did you try Martin Marine? They have all kinds of weird stuff like that...

 

[JDCAVE]

I’m bumping this thread again. I have obtained the replacement valve. If anyone has some advice for approaching replacing this valve, dealing with fuel lines etc, any suggestions are appreciated. I’ve got lots of absorbent pads, flat disposable containers. I also have some SAE caps and plugs for the hose fittings. Not sure what thread type the valve is. Other than the obvious, such as closing all valves, prior and after the valve, that’s about all I know. The photos at the top of the thread show what I’m dealing with.

After thinking this through, I realize that I have valves at each tank for the supply and return lines. I probably could have replace the valve with a couple of “Ts”.

Also, I wonder if the valve has seized due to water ingress and possible corrosion.

 

[FF]

"Also, I wonder if the valve has seized due to water ingress and possible corrosion."

That would take a lot of water , over a long time.

I would guess the packing has seized to the shaft, simply loosening the packing nut may allow the valve to be exercised.

Good luck.

 

[JDCAVE]

"Also, I wonder if the valve has seized due to water ingress and possible corrosion."

That would take a lot of water , over a long time.

I would guess the packing has seized to the shaft, simply loosening the packing nut may allow the valve to be exercised.

Good luck.

I have the new valve and can view inside the ports. It’s brass on brass and is quite stiff to work. I asked Ron at Anderson if I could loosen off the nut to get some movement and he said it only have fuel coming out. He said that would not solve the issue.

The tight spaces make me nervous. I wonder if the hoses (cause they’re more like hoses rather than lines) will need to be removed at the tank so they can be spun while threading them on the valve.

Jim

 

[Xsbank]

JD, I would spend some time looking at the system and see if you can replace that agglomeration of brass with a series of ball valves (although that valve did last you 30 years or so). Ball valves are readily available and somewhere like New Line Hose can make you some very nice, serviceable fuel hoses with swivels on the end like hydraulic hoses, while you wait usually, then you will have a nice modern system without the doubts of this old valve.

If you tape the end of a shop vac to the tank filler and let it run, you will be able to unscrew the hoses with minimal fuel loss. Just a bit fiddly and you "may" need to partially, not totally, block the tank vents.

Actually, looking at those existing fuel hoses you appear to have swivels already.

 

[JDCAVE]

Xsbank: all hoses are new, circa 2010, I believe when the fuel tanks were replaced. I’m not certain about the age of the valve. Anderson no longer supplies them for Reverso. There are ball valves at the tank, both supply and return lines. So the valve in question is redundant. BTW, I paid $400 USD for this valve plus taxes on top of that.

 

[FF]

"I wonder if the hoses (cause they’re more like hoses rather than lines) will need to be removed at the tank so they can be spun while threading them on the valve."

This is a good point for anyone having hoses made up.

Hyd , fuel or propane be sure to specify a swivel on BOTH ends .

Makes R&R much simpler at almost no cost.

 

[Datenight]

If you tape the end of a shop vac to the tank filler and let it run, you will be able to unscrew the hoses with minimal fuel loss. Just a bit fiddly and you "may" need to partially, not totally, block the tank vents.

X,

I was going to suggest that but did not want to deal with the naysayers. I used that method on a home oil tank with complete success.

Rob

 

[Xsbank]

I feel your pain JD, just spent over $600 for a hydraulic controller for my anchor windlass. But boy does it work a treat!

If you have ball valves at the tanks you are almost there. You will lose minimal fuel when you change out but if you use the shop vac leave the valves open and even the line will not drip. Have fun! I am in the middle of refurbishing my bunk room into a stateroom with a real bed and will spend today making small pieces of plywood out of big ones.

 

[FF]

"It’s brass on brass and is quite stiff to work. I asked Ron at Anderson if I could loosen off the nut to get some movement and he said it only have fuel coming out. He said that would not solve the issue."

The reason the fuel selector is hard to move is the parts are on a taper , and well machines.

Only a slight pressure is required to sieze a good taper , ask any lathe operator.

By loosening the packing nut and giving the shaft a slight tap to the shaft , the taper should release.

IF you do R&R the valve , take it apart to see if there actually was anything wrong with it.

I would bet a dollar to a donut hole its fine, was just well built.

 

[sdowney717]

"It’s brass on brass and is quite stiff to work. I asked Ron at Anderson if I could loosen off the nut to get some movement and he said it only have fuel coming out. He said that would not solve the issue."

The reason the fuel selector is hard to move is the parts are on a taper , and well machines.

Only a slight pressure is required to sieze a good taper , ask any lathe operator.

By loosening the packing nut and giving the shaft a slight tap to the shaft , the taper should release.

IF you do R&R the valve , take it apart to see if there actually was anything wrong with it.

I would bet a dollar to a donut hole its fine, was just well built.

Same on my boat, eventually they get stuck. All of mine are single in and out, all I need do is wedge n a pier of needle nose pliers or a small claw and pop them up, that pulls the tapers apart and it works again.

 

[AusCan]

If it needs replacing:

Looking at the bottom photo, I'd say the fittings with the blue thread sealant are NPT on the valve side and a parallel threads (possibly JIC) on the outer side. Don't begin by unscrewing this. I'd wager that if you loosen the parallel threaded nut anticlockwise (looking towards the valve), you'll find it screws off the valve and JIC fitting without twisting the hose.
If its very tight, you may need a second wrench to stop the NPT fitting from turning in the valve, but once it breaks loose, it should turn easily. (like a hydraulic fitting)

 

[JDCAVE]

Thanks for all the advice guys. I’ll try FF’s approach first to see if I can loosen it.

 

[JDCAVE]

...By loosening the packing nut and giving the shaft a slight tap to the shaft , the taper should release...

I’m going to try this by loosening the packing nut 1/4 turn. Please clarify “slight tap...” I don’t want to bugger it up.

Jim

 

[HopCar]

I’m going to try this by loosening the packing nut 1/4 turn. Please clarify “slight tap...” I don’t want to bugger it up.

Jim

I think FF is referring to the fact that some tapered cone valves have a shaft that extends beyond the narrow end of the valve with a nut on it. You can loosen that type of valve by loosening the nut and tapping on the end of the shaft.

You can’t do that as Anderson Brass fuel valves do not have this shaft. The narrow end is closed. One less place to leak.

You can only work from the packing nut end.

 

[FF]

A tap is made with the hammer handle , not the head.


A 1/4 turn of the packing nut will not give much freedom , a couple of turns , but leaving the nut on should work.

 

[JDCAVE]

That “packing nut” is actually cast as part of the faceplate of the valve.

Not sure if that changes anything. The unlike the Groco valve which is serviceable, according to Anderson, this one is not. Still. I’m willing to give it a try, but only just before and when I’m completely ready to do the full remove and replace.

If this works, I guess I’ll have a spare $400 valve!

Edit: the shaft has a slight bit of motion to it.

Jim

 

[FF]

"That “packing nut” is actually cast as part of the faceplate of the valve."

Perhaps it is removable so the internal plug can be R&R?

It looks like it will unscrew from top of the valve.

Otherwise why would the nut surfaces be machined to a wrench size ?

 

[JDCAVE]

Ok, so I drafted my son Eric the small engine-largish engine mechanic for his assistance. Actually he did everything. He’s quite familiar with these sorts of hydraulic fittings. First, we tried FF’s suggestion to loosen the packing nut and free up the valve with a couple of firm taps. It freed up ok, but it weeped diesel. Ron at Anderson brass indicated this was a likely outcome. We felt it would only get worse so we went ahead with the valve replacement. Eric had everything off in 45 minutes and the new valve in and assembled in 30 minutes. We used plugs to keep the diesel in. Actually very little diesel was lost, easily wiped up with a few absorbent pads. No leaks at all after installation. I was surprised how smoothly it all went. Best of all I got to watch!

As I mentioned this valve is redundant as the supply and return lines have valves at each tank. I’m going to switch the valve to select for both tanks and control which tanks are used by opening and closing the valves at the tanks. That way if the valve freezes, it won’t affect the operation.

 

[FF]

"It freed up ok, but it weeped diesel"


Did you retighten it after it broke free?