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Old 08-06-2018, 05:02 PM   #81
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Most tank leaks are small - only ounes per week. Has anyone tried cutting a hatch-way into side or end (as in photos), cleaned the tank, then injected a liquid tar-like sealer, similar to that used in the original steel tanks, to plug the pin holes? Might last for another 20 years. The cut out part of the tank could used to fashion a reusable hatch by attaching it to a larger steel plate with a gasket.
There is a thread on TF where tanks were sealed inside after cleaning. I considered that option. My tank accessabilty prohibited that idea. The tank had two full baffles. That would require three manways to get access. The work would be hard doing it through a 12" manway. The new tanks are not that expensive compared to some other boat repairs.
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Old 08-10-2018, 11:53 AM   #82
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ER Yoga

Dave:

You are fortunate to have a spacious opening to your engine room for your ER yoga. This second (lower) photo is a bit mystifying, though.
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Old 08-10-2018, 12:35 PM   #83
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Dave:

This second (lower) photo is a bit mystifying, though.
I am crawling over the engine to get out. The distance between my chest and the ceiling is about an inch. The mockup has my escape route blocked
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Old 08-10-2018, 01:06 PM   #84
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Your doing a great job. Can not wait to see you do the other tank.
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Old 08-10-2018, 02:06 PM   #85
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Your doing a great job. Can not wait to see you do the other tank.
Port tank is not leaking YET. I will probably tackle that one next summer.
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Old 08-16-2018, 09:44 AM   #86
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This is amazing to read and see your photos. thank you for taking the time and extra effort to include the details of this process. please don't forget to include a budget at the end.
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Old 08-16-2018, 12:45 PM   #87
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I look at my tanks every day and wonder..."when?"

I'm also considering upgrading my nicely varnished but unevenly sanded parquet flooring in the salon with teak and holly (to match the pilothouse) along with a few other joinery updates/modifications (tv lift, etc).

Granted, I was two IPA's in but this got me thinking: why not remove and replace the tanks from the top by removing the floor rather than cutting up the old tanks for removal and removing the engines to make room for replacement?

Perhaps not for everyone (especially if you're not planning interior flooring/finish changes) but if I'm thinking about replacing the flooring anyway, removing the joinery and galley cabinets and cutting out the floor doesn't seem like it would be too much effort.

PS - I have all my BEST ideas after three IPAs so this might only be 66% of a good idea.
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Old 08-16-2018, 01:02 PM   #88
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Nothing wrong with removing the floor IMHO....certainly no worse and likely better than cutting out hull sides or bottoms. But if in addition to open flooring areas you also have to demo galley and other cabinetry that is otherwise perfectly sound, that would give me pause....and require a 4th IPA.
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Old 08-17-2018, 02:47 PM   #89
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"..certainly no worse and likely better than cutting out hull sides or bottoms"

Chopping a huge hole in the side of a steel or aluminum vessel is fine as welding will restore the metal to near its origional properties.

In a GRP boat the patch will require reinforcing that will make the repaired panel flex differently from the un-cut panel, as well as the rest of the boat.

On a big boat the hulls are usually more than 400% stronger than the expected loads , mostly to add longevity giving stiffness to the hull. .

Tampering with the hull strength would scare me to stay in lakes and bays and never dare the blue water .
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Old 08-17-2018, 08:24 PM   #90
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Much appreciate the thorough and well documented tank job, looking forward to seeing the finished product.
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Old 08-21-2018, 11:56 AM   #91
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Great work Dave. You are a wealth of information, thanks for the pic. We are heading back to Solomon’s in a couple of weeks, hope to see you there.
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Old 08-21-2018, 04:49 PM   #92
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Great work Dave. You are a wealth of information, thanks for the pic. We are heading back to Solomon’s in a couple of weeks, hope to see you there.
We should be around. Going to pickup tanks tomorrow. The second half of the fun starts soon.
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Old 08-21-2018, 06:44 PM   #93
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Good. Did you post the cost for the tanks? If not can you?
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Old 08-21-2018, 08:21 PM   #94
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Good. Did you post the cost for the tanks? If not can you?
Two 77 gal tanks $1738 total. SP Tanks in NJ. Promised 10 bus day turn around and did it in 9.
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Old 08-21-2018, 08:32 PM   #95
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What gauge aluminum did you get? Are you picking them up or having them shipped? My tanks are 210 gallons each and I don’t want to go any smaller when I replace mine.
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Old 08-22-2018, 07:30 PM   #96
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What gauge aluminum did you get? Are you picking them up or having them shipped? My tanks are 210 gallons each and I don’t want to go any smaller when I replace mine.
Picked up tanks at SP Marine Services in Barnegat NJ https://www.spmarineservices.com/mar...ank-repair.php. I am very pleased with the quality of the work they did. The tanks are 3/16" 5052 Al. Darren at SP recommended the upgrade from 1/8". The tanks were ready in less than 10 business days as promised. That is something I rarely experience with boat work. Darren provided lots of good advice before I ordered the tanks and I got alot more information today when I visited the shop. The tanks are 77 gal each. I lost 21 gallons of capacity.

Next step is to bed Kingsboard to the tanks with 5200 at all contact points. Unfortunately I have to do some of that in the boat. If I would do it at home the tanks would not go through the port side door. We are only talking about 1/4" poly, I don't have any margin.
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Old 08-22-2018, 07:41 PM   #97
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Thanks for the info. Good luck with the install.
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Old 08-22-2018, 07:56 PM   #98
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Dave, I'm a little confused. Is every blue cap / plug an inlet, outlet, return line, vent? I see the 2 where the tanks connect, 2 vents, 1 filler, 1 return, and about 6 more. Care to explain the surplus.

I see 2 strips of aluminum that appears to connect the tanks. Are they separated for placement and then locked together once in place?

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Old 08-22-2018, 08:00 PM   #99
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Dave, I'm a little confused. Is every blue cap / plug an inlet, outlet, return line, vent? I see the 2 where the tanks connect, 2 vents, 1 filler, 1 return, and about 6 more. Care to explain the surplus.

I see 2 strips of aluminum that appears to connect the tanks. Are they separated for placement and then locked together once in place?

Ted
Was thinking the same, noticed the number of fitting not the same on both tanks?

L
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Old 08-22-2018, 08:01 PM   #100
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Dave if you want to adhere Starboard to the tanks, I suggest you use Sudbury’s adhesive sealant. It will stick to Starboard much better than 5200. Be aware that Sudbury sets quickly.
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