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Old 06-24-2022, 05:27 PM   #81
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Sadly now that floscan has disappeared, I was searching recently for a replacement.

I came across this Australian company. Appears to be priced right even with all the shipping etc.

Anyone tried them or has knowledge?

https://www.scintex.com.au/products/...sumption-gauge
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Old 06-24-2022, 05:32 PM   #82
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Heres a video on youtube of scintex..


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Old 06-24-2022, 07:36 PM   #83
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I wonder the reason for Flow Scan went belly up.
I had one installed on my N46. Pretty neat.
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Old 06-24-2022, 07:48 PM   #84
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I wonder the reason for Flow Scan went belly up.
I had one installed on my N46. Pretty neat.

Total speculation, but here goes....


First, very niche product, and probably not more than one guy in a garage. That usually doesn't outlast the individual's interest and attention. It can last if the product provides a living for the principal, but is less likely to last if it doesn't.


Second, failure to evolve. It's a single instrument (flow gauge), and over the past decade or two stand alone instruments have become pretty uninteresting. If they had evolved it to integrate with N2K or J1939 so it could work as part of a larger system, that would have at least bought them some more runway. But it would have taken time and money to develop, build, and market, so worth it? Who knows.


In early stage tech investing there is a saying that there are features, products, and companies. It takes a company to survive and thrive, and even that isn't a guarantee, as we all know. I think at one time Flow Scan was a product, but then got reduced to being a feature.
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Old 06-24-2022, 09:02 PM   #85
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I do have a readout on my VesselView. Perhaps he let patents expire, people seized the opportunity to start their business???
Or perhaps licensed others?
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Old 06-24-2022, 09:07 PM   #86
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I do have a readout on my VesselView. Perhaps he let patents expire, people seized the opportunity to start their business???
Or perhaps licensed others?

There's another way it became obsolete - Electronically injected engines tell you how much fuel they are burning via J1939. No extra devices are required.
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Old 06-25-2022, 05:40 AM   #87
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M= it’s amazing how the logistics and expenses for the same activity vary by location. Thanks for sharing the rationale and rational thinking for your decision. Have had troubles with shore power pedestals. We run 120/60 boat. Throughout the Caribbean access maybe be limited (St.Lucia and the French islands). We’ve been in places where they aren’t grounded or your breakers flip due deteriorated wiring. I’m currently in a big US marina. My slip has no 30amp just 50amp so on a splitter. A t storm comes through and at least one leg goes down. I had my prior boat set up as to NEVER require shore power nor shore water. I’ve learned to not trust anyone except myself. Even when I’m gone and dependent upon yacht management I don’t want them to have to scramble if shore power goes down. Perhaps in your situation it may not be possible to be shore power independent. But will say it was a new world and much lower stress being so. Especially when I wasn’t on the boat for significant periods of time.
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Old 06-25-2022, 07:04 AM   #88
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Remote monitoring can be a wonderful thing for power issues. Power went out at the whole marina once last year, leaving the boat running on battery/solar. That means no A/C and a few other things, but it was late at night when I noticed the boat was on battery power (remotely from home). Wasn't super hot or humid, so I figured I'd be there the next day anyway, so I could just worry about it then. But if for some reason the batteries had gotten low before then, I would have gotten an alert.
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Old 06-25-2022, 07:42 AM   #89
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I'm a "Simple is as Simple Does" guy...

Every boat I've ever owned never stays connected to shore power when I'm/we're away from it for more than several hours... or for days, weeks, months.

In that: I simply shut off all breakers on electric control panel, shut off Perko battery breakers [isolating all batteries] and unplug from shore power at both the shore receptacle and on board receptacle. Leaving open screened airflow locations [windows/hatches etc] open-enough to suite the season and climate phase of year.

This makes my boat an "Island" unto itself... sitting in the water with no connection to shore power grid and isolated DC bats so no bleed into/onto boat parts. Great fire safety as well as reduced metal corrosion capabilities.
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Old 06-25-2022, 09:41 AM   #90
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What they did do to the thermostats however was interesting. They drilled a 3 mm hole in each one. According to them this makes sure the thermostat never gets blocked and that you won't run into trouble later. When I thought about I concluded it was actually a very clever idea.
If concerned about fuel efficiency, those thermostats should be replaced. I had the same "clever idea" done to mine. Whatever the possible problem the hole is intended to fix, it does create immediate problems.

My little 3 mm hole made the engine warm up really slow. In fact at idle it would not warm up. Even running at 1,500 rpm, it would take awhile to get above 130 degrees. It was a 170 degree thermostat, but only got to that temp after running at about 1,800 rpm, which is above the rpm and below the temp that what I wanted to run at. Cooler isn't better for diesels.

Thermostats for the vintage Ford Lehman are available for about $35 on the internet. Thermostats for the vintage Ford Mustang are available for $9 at the local auto parts store. Same thing. Stant (big brand name) makes one that doesn't block air (the purpose of the 3 mm hole?) but still works properly. I bought a 180 degree one. Running at WOT, the temp will bump above 180 for a minute and then settle back. For $9 each, I bought a spare and tossed the mutilated one.

What is it that would block the entire thermostat poppet valve but not a 3 mm hole?
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Old 06-25-2022, 12:21 PM   #91
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What is it that would block the entire thermostat poppet valve but not a 3 mm hole?

The 3 mm hole is indeed there to avoid air blocks in the system. The hole will equalize the pressure in case there is an air block and since the pressure of the waterpump is so much bigger than the relatively small flow of coolant through that hole, the chance that the thermostat will open late is next to zero.
I have been running this thermostat now for about 60 hours this way and the engine temperature is steady at 78 degrees. Good maintenance practice also tells you to regularly exchange the thermostat, so I will do that every year, just like I change the oil, oil filters, fuel filters etc etc.
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Old 06-25-2022, 12:29 PM   #92
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Iíve learned to not trust anyone except myself. Even when Iím gone and dependent upon yacht management I donít want them to have to scramble if shore power goes down. Perhaps in your situation it may not be possible to be shore power independent. But will say it was a new world and much lower stress being so. Especially when I wasnít on the boat for significant periods of time.

@ Hippocampus, I now learned that as well the hard way, expensive lesson. No work done on my boat anymore when I am not there. And indeed don't assume that people will do something just because they say they will do it.

Being almost 13.000 km away from the boat at this moment does not help of course.
But when we left at the beginning of June I closed all the sea cocks, so no water can come in anymore. I disconnected all my start batteries and batteries for the stern thruster and pasarelle. Only batteries still connected is the house bank (which is destroyed anyway) and the battery for the bilge pump. Solar power will charge them and shore power is disonnected.

Just a few days ago I called my neighbor, who lives on board his sailing vessel, and asked him if he could check battery status and bilge status. Everything is fine according to him, so in about a month he will check again. But not a single person of this marina will ever set foot on my boat anymore, I don't want any more damage.



So I fully agree with your approach, it is the only way to make sure your boat stays the way it is.
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Old 06-25-2022, 12:33 PM   #93
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Thought about the hole in the thermostat but now Iím glad I didnít do it.

My Mitsu started up quickly and warmed up fast. Was up to 190 quickly. My idle speed was higher than most would have it (1000?) as I had a problem early on in Alaska. Started up and backed out of the slip .. pulled the throttle back and before I shifted into fwd gear the engine quit. I think I had the idle speed too slow .. 700 or so. Turned it up to about 1050 when all warmed up. Engine never quit again .. for too slow idle adjustment. I couldnít think of any reason for a slow idle so thatís where it stayed.
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Old 06-25-2022, 01:09 PM   #94
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Thought about the hole in the thermostat but now Iím glad I didnít do it.



My Mitsu started up quickly and warmed up fast. Was up to 190 quickly. My idle speed was higher than most would have it (1000?) as I had a problem early on in Alaska. Started up and backed out of the slip .. pulled the throttle back and before I shifted into fwd gear the engine quit. I think I had the idle speed too slow .. 700 or so. Turned it up to about 1050 when all warmed up. Engine never quit again .. for too slow idle adjustment. I couldnít think of any reason for a slow idle so thatís where it stayed.


The only issue with a fast idle is that itís harder on the clutches when you shift gears. 1050 is pretty high. It might be worth checking what your gear mfg suggests. I would think that 800-850 would be a better compromise.
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Old 06-25-2022, 01:57 PM   #95
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Small hole in Tstat plate is meant for allowing air to bleed off preventing air lock and overheating. My mechainic friend suggested I drill one when I replaced coolant and Tstat. When I got the new Yanmar Tstat it already had a hole in it.
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Old 06-25-2022, 04:17 PM   #96
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twistedtree wrote;
ď The only issue with a fast idle is that itís harder on the clutches when you shift gears. 1050 is pretty high. It might be worth checking what your gear mfg suggests. I would think that 800-850 would be a better compromise.Ē

I should have mentioned my engine was not a Lehman or 6cyl Perkins. It was a four cylinder 40hp engine. And I never abuse clutches. Engage and disengage clutches smartly as in quickly.
The trans was a BW designed for much larger engines. I used that transmission mostly because it was original equipment .. mated to a 4cyl Perkins. I had installed a smaller gear on the oil pump as the clutches needed far less pressure to maintain clutch engagement. Worked perfectly.
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Old 06-25-2022, 05:07 PM   #97
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You can buy a digital flow meter on Amazon or ebay for about $40.
It only measures in one direction so you need 2 and have to do the math.
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Old 06-25-2022, 05:16 PM   #98
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I nearly always shift gears at 1000 rpm, sometimes 100 below or a 100 above... that's according to my old tachs... which I'm confident are not accurate at faster rpm's; so, who knows at considerably low speed??

When first starting boat up with hatches wide open, while I'm listening closely to engines running [warming up]... as I shift tranys' in F and R to test them - the shifting sounds smooth and gentle at 1000 rpm. At below 800 rpm there's a rattle in reverse [not in forward] - more pronounced on port. Rattle disappears above 800 rpm. Have heard of this from other BW VD trany owners. Same rattle has been present for 14 yrs we've owned our Tolly.

Accordioning to my trans specialist shop: An important item in shifting marine transmissions, to help not stress a trany's plates and its other internals, is the "couple second wait" in neutral before altering shift lever position from F to R or R to F. That's easy to say... but in close quarters a second or two can be a long time between the altering of prop direction.

Sooo... To best as possible not stress trany internals [by often doing back and forth shifting] during close quarter maneuvering: I recommend going at things very slowly. Wherein I go from a shift direction and into neutral so far away from striking a point with boat that the couple of seconds wait before going into opposite gear is no problem. Also, if you go into neutral but quickly realize you should go back into the same gear then there is no wait time required.

Happy Trany-Shifting Daze! - Art
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Old 06-25-2022, 05:56 PM   #99
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You can buy a digital flow meter on Amazon or ebay for about $40.
It only measures in one direction so you need 2 and have to do the math.
Beat me to it
Which looks identical to the Scintex one for $350

https://www.scintex.com.au/products/...RoC12MQAvD_BwE
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Old 06-25-2022, 06:28 PM   #100
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You can buy a digital flow meter on Amazon or ebay for about $40.
It only measures in one direction so you need 2 and have to do the math.
This one measures a minimum of 9L/min

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Beat me to it
Which looks identical to the Scintex one for $350

https://www.scintex.com.au/products/...RoC12MQAvD_BwE
This one measures a minimum of 5L/min

Unless I misunderstand that suggests that if the flow is less then it does not measure.
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