Ford Lehman starter problems

[Marco Flamingo]

Okay, I had to resort to looking at my old Lehman Operator and Parts Manual (i.e., I read the instructions). If I understand correctly, in the picture that I linked above, the damper plate can be seen, but not removed until the "adapter" plate (key #3in the picture below) is removed. That is the plate that I loosened in order to drain the rusty sludge. When I went in with my endoscope the next day, the bottom of the flywheel casing was damp, but no more sitting liquid, so I dried with a heat gun and then went ahead and installed the starter (which worked perfectly). Still need to get into the damper plate and clean things out.

Do I have it correct that the "all-thread method" of exposing the damper plate is by removing the adapter plate bolts and putting in enough all-thread to support the tranny but not so many as to preclude the removal of the damper plate between the all-thread?

I confirmed something else about my engine. The PO said that it had a heavy flywheel which made the little 4 cyl. Lehman run smoother. Turns out my engine does have the optional larger casing (key #90) and the #200 flywheel (part #621E-6275-A). I thought that the big flywheel was only an option used on the 6 cyl. 120.

 

[Comodave]

That is correct about the allthread. I had my engines out when I did the damper plates. I used a floor jack to support the transmission and rolled it back. I think it only took about 4 or 5” back to get to the damper plate. But I probably could have done it with a bit less room. But since it was on a rolling floor jack I just rolled the transmission back a ways. Keep in mind that you have to be able to slide the prop shaft back in order to slide the transmission back. On my boat I could not get the prop shaft to slide back because the prop would hit the rudder. I could only get about 1/4” back with the shaft.

 

[MVDarlin]

FordLehman Starter

Best to remove and rebuild entire unit. Even if you get it to work now it will likely fail again. Better peace of mind. I think there is some confusion in terms re Bendix and starter solenoid. I have been using auto part store solenoids for years with good results. The resin type are better for salt water environments.

 

[new2trawl]

That's not a solenoid problem but more of a drive gear engagement, or lack of. You don't say where you're located, but if you're in the PNW, Sound Starter in Tacoma, WA can rebuild.

 

[Choices]

I had to go look at my pictures again.

The bell housing only has to be removed to remove the flywheel. I have not ever done this.

Removing the tranny will allow access to the dampner plate. Look closely at the springs and metal of the plate. Inspect the rivets, make sure they are tight.

You will be amazed at how small the bolts are holding the dampner plate. If put on backwards the trans input shaft will not fully engaged the dampner hub. Make sure correct.

My Velvet drive is aluminum, so about 120#. Studs should work good. With studs you may need to disconnect the propshaft to keep things aligned.

A 4 cylinder with a heavy flywheel should get good life from the dampner.

 

[Marco Flamingo]

Just to make sure I understand all this, in the parts manual picture of the "TRANSMISSION ADAPTION ASSEMBLY" shown above, it looks like the damper plate (part #2) cannot fit through the hole in the adapter housing (part #3). In the Choices picture referenced in post number 3 above, it looks like the damper plate can fit through the hole in the adapter housing. Therefore, just the transmission needs to be unbolted and slid back, not the entire adapter/transmission assembly. Correct?

Here is a picture of my prop showing the distance of shaft end to the rudder. With the rudder full over, it looks like I would have an least 8 inches of travel for the shaft to slide back.

 

[Choices]

Marco, I don't remember. The picture you are looking at is when I pulled the tranny, and I mentioned new dampner. At the worst you can pull it apart then loosen the bell housing and slide the dampner in from the top if you have clearance.

I do have pictures, let me keep looking.

 

[Choices]

To pull the bell housing you could also do the studs but the weight is more, so you would need multiple studs.

The trolley is super easy. You slide an assembly. We never disconnected the prop shaft, when changing the dampner plate.

The drop shaft tranny angle changes as the transmission sldies back if on studs. You can allow for that with the block and tackle.

Looks like you got plenty of room to slide the shaft back.

I misled you thinking the dampner would go through tranny hole. It will not. In the pictures you can not see the dampner mounting bolts. Those have to clear the hole.

The dampner sits in a recessed flywheel, the flywheel is not flat like a car.

PM me your number, I will call you.