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Old 10-06-2020, 06:29 PM   #21
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Wow! that is a great idea! Thank you!
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Old 10-06-2020, 08:04 PM   #22
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Photos, 1 with chain hoist, one with rachet. Rachet was preferable. Note frame with 2X6's. 2X4 on top with a trolley attached so I could move transmission to center. Made it easier to change front seal and install new dampers. Total time - about an hour each side.
Support the weight of the transmission so the shaft will slide out of the spline. It must be straight. Turn the rear coupling to align splines when reinstalling.

(Yellow arrow points to setup stud permanently installed with a nut rather than the original bolt. Exhaust hose is removed. I placed scrap wood under transmission for safety.)
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Rachet Best.JPG   chain hoist.jpg  
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Old 10-07-2020, 12:04 PM   #23
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Guess I am lucky. My Lehmans are supported by four motor mounts. The transmissions are simply bolted to the engines.
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Old 10-07-2020, 12:33 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by catalinajack View Post
Guess I am lucky. My Lehmans are supported by four motor mounts. The transmissions are simply bolted to the engines.
Ditto.
Conversion mounts are available to eliminate trans mount, but I think 3 mounts may cause stress at the center.
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Old 10-16-2020, 03:19 PM   #25
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I did my DP, motor mounts, tranny service, new shaft, new cutlass bearing, new rudder table, packing all around, and reconditioned prop about a month ago.

My damper plate was stuck on tranny shaft, so i did not have the most pleasant experience. But i think mine is a “one off situation and not common.

Lift up the ass of the engine by any means possible and follow the other folks instruction. See pics.
Attached Thumbnails
CEEA91AC-61E7-4BA7-A61A-FDE74DA5851C.jpg   C73107A4-756B-4908-B725-AA9CAA64F80B.jpg   7C1BE5E1-939D-4772-8824-07A18AB739D6.jpg   3588F343-6DE4-471B-AFFC-9649DA78A1E8.jpg   9BA2ADDB-686C-4146-ABB7-002C7E1EBEC5.jpg  

975FD2A9-BE33-4173-9B86-C23A2D7BFAF5.jpg   A5C7D341-C5F5-45A8-AB13-FFEC6449055B.jpg   114B1FD7-9D16-4C4D-8E41-B82B95758604.jpg   386E1409-A3AA-4A50-B802-ABC0FEBA28A6.jpg   F30BF22D-3AAB-4121-987A-0937AA734F9A.jpg  

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Old 10-16-2020, 03:35 PM   #26
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You certainly have easy, good access to the engine. I am jealous.
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Old 10-16-2020, 04:53 PM   #27
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You certainly have easy, good access to the engine. I am jealous.
Lmao. You correct. (Now I dont have a nice big salon etc...., but groverbuilt’s have their bright spots, lol.)
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Old 10-16-2020, 05:51 PM   #28
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Well there is something to be said for having a salon with recliners in it... Although right now my salon has a crane in it instead of recliners.
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Old 10-17-2020, 10:55 AM   #29
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Damper Plates

First & foremost, ANY FL questions should be directed to Brian at American Diesel. They are the premiere FL source, since Brian's dad was involved in the marinaziation of the Ford engine.

They have what ever it is FL that you will need.

Here (https://americandieselcorp.com/) you'll find the phone number and any other info you need.

Second, are you referring to engine mounts as damper plates?

IF so, they have them. We did our 2 135's in '16. Don't think that engine mounts go to the trans, at least not on our 135's.

You'll hear a lot of comments on most forums, call Brian, that's the best choice.
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Old 10-17-2020, 12:34 PM   #30
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There is also BOMAC Marine who rebuilds and a place near Seattle that does too.

Both had tech info on valve clearance to piston head after a head rebuild that I wasn't able to get from American Diesel.

So while American Diesel is great for a lot of things, there are more pages in the Lehman book.

Some Lehman installs do put mounts on the tranny, see post #25.
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Old 03-18-2021, 03:28 PM   #31
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Hi All,

Well six months later and both damper plates have been replaced. The ideas put forward on this thread made it possible. Thank you so much everyone!

For any one who is taking on this task I did the following (with the boat in the water).

1. Purchased rear engine mounts brackets from ADC and bolted them onto the engine. I put some 1/4" steel plates on the stringer below the engine mount and then used a 5/8" bolt/nut through the engine mount and tightened only enough to support the engine. Disconnect the shift cable and hoses from the transmission.

2. Replaced 6 of the bolts holding the bell housing to the engine block with 8" Grade 8 bolts. I did every second bolt starting at the top and going around the outboard side of the transmission so it wouldn't interfere when I pulled the damper plate out. (The 8" bolts supported the transmission and allowed it to slide back) I then removed all of the rest of the bolts holding the bell housing onto the engine block.

3. Removed the Transmission mount brackets and then removed the mount from the stringer. I then reinstalled the brackets so they were hanging off of the transmission.

4. Using some 5/8' ready rod, nuts and large washers, I made a press between the engine block and the transmission brackets. Alternating back and forth between sides, I pushed the transmission (shaft, and props as well I guess. I was a little concerned about the distance between the prop and rudder but had a picture from when the boat was out of the water so I knew I had at least four inches).

5. Once the transmission was pushed back 3" to 4", I was able to reach in and take out the 1/2" bolts that hold the damper plate to the flywheel, taking note of the orientation of the holes in the old plate to the holes in the flywheel. I laid the old plate over the new one and marked the holes I would be using and installed the new plate.

6. Using the ready rod/nut/washer setup, I pulled the transmission forward until the spline input shaft from the transmission was just touching the damper plate. A friend rocked the crankshaft back and forth from the front of the engine while I drew the transmission forward so the spline shaft would settle into the damper plate.

7. Once the transmission was close enough to the engine block I used the regular bolts to pull it the rest of the way (alternating tightening the bolts around the bell housing for an even pull). I then replaced the six 8" bolts with the originals.

When I did the second engine, the whole process took about 3 hours. I have pictures of what I did if you are interested. Let me know and I will send them to you. (I don't know how to post them)

Fourteen hours on the engines since doing this and no problems so far.

Thanks again everyone!
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Old 03-18-2021, 03:39 PM   #32
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Good job. I just replaced my second damper plate on Tuesday. Since I had the engine and transmission out and stacked above the other engine I had great access. I used a floor jack to hold the transmission and roll it back to get to the damper plate. It took about an hour to do it. I am going to put the engine back in this weekend.
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Old 03-18-2021, 03:48 PM   #33
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Thanks Comodave,

Now I am on to the electrical. I have to replace the house batteries.

Am debating :

1. Flooded golf cart (Three pairs which will give me about 650Ah.) cost $900 CDN
2. AGM golf cart cost $2200 CDN
3. Li batteries cost - don't have that much money

Considering upgrading the alternators to 120 Amp each but can't get a straight answer as to how much charging current the batteries will take.
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Old 03-18-2021, 04:35 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin.Bridgen View Post
Thanks Comodave,

Now I am on to the electrical. I have to replace the house batteries.

Am debating :

1. Flooded golf cart (Three pairs which will give me about 650Ah.) cost $900 CDN
2. AGM golf cart cost $2200 CDN
3. Li batteries cost - don't have that much money

Considering upgrading the alternators to 120 Amp each but can't get a straight answer as to how much charging current the batteries will take.
Good write up on the damper.
I read somewhere that charge batteries at no more than 25% of the total AH. So the 120 amp should be no problem. (remember going on memory)
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Old 03-18-2021, 04:45 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by Kevin.Bridgen View Post
Thanks Comodave,

Now I am on to the electrical. I have to replace the house batteries.

Am debating :

1. Flooded golf cart (Three pairs which will give me about 650Ah.) cost $900 CDN
2. AGM golf cart cost $2200 CDN
3. Li batteries cost - don't have that much money

Considering upgrading the alternators to 120 Amp each but can't get a straight answer as to how much charging current the batteries will take.
The best place to get that answer is from the battery manufacturer but typically standard flooded batteries are specd at no more than 15% of AH capacity. That said, standard alternators will only give about 50% output continuously. Very heavy duty alternators like Leece Neville or Balmar can do the full rated output continuously. Also, 120a alternators will require a belt change. Either 2 V belts or a serpentine belt.

Ken
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Old 03-18-2021, 04:47 PM   #36
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Thanks Steve,

I read that as well, 25% of the total bank Ah rating however that was an AGM spec and I can't find one for a flooded battery bank.

Also, it would be two alternators so a potential charge current of 240Amps.

I would like to cut the charge time down as much as possible so I don't disturb everyone for four hours. Also, still looking at solar.
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Old 03-18-2021, 04:48 PM   #37
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I put in 3 105 AH LiFePO4 batteries for the house. It will give almost 300 AHs for the house. They only weigh 23 pounds each and so the house bank is physically much smaller. They do have some restrictions but overall I like them. They will take a charge very quickly. I am putting a 120 amp alternator on one engine just to charge the house bank. The stock alternator will charge the 2 start batteries with an ACR. The 3 Lithium batteries cost me about $2300. They have a lifetime warranty and are rated for 3500+ cycles. But nothing wrong with flooded or AGMs.
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Old 03-18-2021, 04:51 PM   #38
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Thanks Ken,

I was looking at a couple Balmar 120s. I already have double Vs just for redundancy sake on the circ pump.

Trying to get info out of manufacturers is like pulling hens teeth.
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Old 03-18-2021, 04:55 PM   #39
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If it wasn't for the price I would be considering Li. A 600Ah bank here is around $7.5K CDN.
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Old 03-18-2021, 05:27 PM   #40
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Quote:
This question is generally answered by saying 'no more than 2 x 2.4 Ah (amp-hours) per cell...or 6 x 2 x 2.4....or no more than 28.40 Amp-Hours per battery, up to approximately 1/4 (0.25) of the battery's rated Amp-hours...so, a 100-Ah deep cycle battery could be charged up to 100 * 0.25 or 25-Amp-hours charge at 14.58 volts...so if you have a 100 Amp-hour battery, you can charge it at 25 amps at a given 14.5 volts for around 5-hours (testing for when it reaches approximately 14 volts at the battery posts), and be at or near 100% retained charge.
Like pulling hens teeth

source
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