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Old 03-19-2019, 01:11 PM   #21
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Ron, I really like your boat!

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Old 03-19-2019, 07:17 PM   #22
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That looks like the neck has been modified, but the radiator cap does not look lik a double acting type - can't tell for sure.
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Old 10-24-2020, 10:40 AM   #23
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I seem to be having a somewhat similar issue with my Coolant on my port engine (FL120). Slightly more concerning though as we are on the hard. While at the dock a month ago we noticed port coolant tank empty (do not have a plastic overflow system installed). Cap was really crusty- probably original- So we ordered the cap recommended on this forum thinking it was just from shutting down too quickly and not letting the engines idle down enough. (Do not have this issue in stbd tank FYI but the coolant reservoir appears to have been upgraded).

But we replaced the cap, vacuumed out the coolant from the bilge (literally all of the coolant), examined the engine for signs of where it might be leaking in case that was the issue but couldn’t find anything. With the new cap we thought the issue was resolved.

Flash forward:

We’re out on the hard doing winter work and on a check the port coolant tank is empty again and the coolant is in the bilge... well, outboard side of the inner port stringer...

Where would this all be leaking from if not the overflow tube? There is no observable evidence of coolant on the engine that we’ve been able to find. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
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Old 10-24-2020, 11:38 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by albinalaska View Post
I seem to be having a somewhat similar issue with my Coolant on my port engine (FL120). Slightly more concerning though as we are on the hard. While at the dock a month ago we noticed port coolant tank empty (do not have a plastic overflow system installed). Cap was really crusty- probably original- So we ordered the cap recommended on this forum thinking it was just from shutting down too quickly and not letting the engines idle down enough. (Do not have this issue in stbd tank FYI but the coolant reservoir appears to have been upgraded).

But we replaced the cap, vacuumed out the coolant from the bilge (literally all of the coolant), examined the engine for signs of where it might be leaking in case that was the issue but couldn’t find anything. With the new cap we thought the issue was resolved.

Flash forward:

We’re out on the hard doing winter work and on a check the port coolant tank is empty again and the coolant is in the bilge... well, outboard side of the inner port stringer...

Where would this all be leaking from if not the overflow tube? There is no observable evidence of coolant on the engine that we’ve been able to find. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

My starboard engine has leaked coolant out the last 2 winters. Have not been able to find the leak yet. However during the summer it doesn’t leak when we are using it. I put a dye in but that hasn’t been definitive.
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Old 10-24-2020, 11:56 AM   #25
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port engine is usually connected to heat water heater. Most likely source of leaks. Local auto parts store will loan you a pressure test kit. Add some UV dye to the coolant before testing.
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Old 10-25-2020, 12:26 PM   #26
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Without the coolant recovery tank, you will put coolant in the bilge. The Lehman's seek their own coolant level and it's at a much lower level than you would expect. Spend a bit of money and modernize your engine with the new kit from American Diesel and stop peering in your header tank fearfully! There is also a bleed screw which should be used according to the manual.

Also, your recovery tank should be slightly higher than the header tank.

If all your maintenance is up to date, when did you last change your coolant? If you are not testing it regularly with coolant test strips (Cat sells 'em) you need to flush and change it, 5 years is maximum for the best coolants if you don't have a coolant filter. Coolant filters replenish the additives so you might consider adding one?
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Old 10-28-2020, 08:48 PM   #27
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Man, my tomes are getting a workout lately. Saves a lot of typing.
Most points have been covered here somewhere.
This is about the use of the coolant recovery systems as this subject comes up so often.
THey do help but like all things they do need to be understood and set up properly.

If you have more questions, ask.
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File Type: doc Coolant Recovery Systems.doc (32.0 KB, 14 views)
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Old 10-29-2020, 10:28 AM   #28
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water heater. Most likely source of leaks.
That's where I found mine. I was slowly loosing coolant. Local auto parts store had a pressure tester, but it didn't have a test cap that fit my Lehman.

I bought a 50' length of heater hose (cheap price per foot) and decided to replace all of the old stuff to the water heater and bus heater. The hose to the water heater was obviously original, and right at the inlet it had surface crazing under the hose clamps and back a few more inches. Turns out that when the system was under pressure (and hot), that area would "sweat." I couldn't find any visible indication that it actually dripped out, but if it did, it would have gone directly into the shaft alley where, because of the dripping shaft seal, the evidence would have been diluted and routinely pumped overboard.

The proper coolant level in my FL is deceptively low. There is probably 2 inches of air above it that could be filled. But if filled, the next check will show the level back down 2 inches again. I decided to be brave and just leave it there. I now have almost 100 hours on the engine without the need to add coolant. I still think I will make a little dip stick with a notch to show the static level. Easier than looking down in or sticking my finger in and guessing.
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Old 10-29-2020, 11:13 AM   #29
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I will admit right here that it took me a few years of performing the coolant level "dance" with my two FL120s before I got smart and added the American Diesel coolant recovery bottle and double acting radiator cap filler neck kit. What a difference in the ability to actively monitor the coolant status during both operation and post operation of the engines. I urge anybody with an unmodified FL120 the make this most sensible of changes.
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Old 11-02-2020, 02:00 PM   #30
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port engine is usually connected to heat water heater. Most likely source of leaks. Local auto parts store will loan you a pressure test kit. Add some UV dye to the coolant before testing.
As it turns out that is exactly what it was! We knew the water heater (an old ball of rust that we had always planned on removing from the day we bought the boat) was leaking but it was such a slow rate it was almost impossible to see the green coloration of the coolant. It looked just like water dripping out. But examining the tank and subsequently removing it made it very obvious it was the culprit.

Regarding recharging the coolant lines is there anything I need to do or to be aware of? I’ve heard there can’t be air in the lines but not sure if there is anything else I need to deal with to not have any issues down the line. We are out on the hard for at least another year but if something serious enough came along we could go through the effort of getting water to the intakes to start the engines if necessary.

As always; thanks!
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