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Old 02-25-2021, 11:47 PM   #1
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Ford Lehman 120 Broken Exhaust Elbow Stud

I'm replacing my exhaust elbow and while removing it I broke one of the studs/bolts. Any advise on removing and replacing the stud? Thanks
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Old 02-26-2021, 12:21 AM   #2
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Soak stud with PB Blaster. Apply heat to manifold. Rinse and repeat.
It looks as though you can get 2 nuts over what's left so be patient. Too much torque will break it off flush. Then you will have to drill it out and install helicoil.

I would probably put a nut on top to protect the threads, heat up manifold so it's a little too hot to touch, then spray PB Blaster, then tap nut with hammer. Keep repeating.

If you have a wire fed welder just weld a nut on top and heat should break it free.
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Old 02-26-2021, 12:42 AM   #3
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I've had better results with Kriol https://www.kroil.com/ I prefer the version with silicone. Used to be called silikroil.

I once watched an older, very experienced, mechanic use heat then cold. It worked. He said it broke the rust loose.

Patience is important, don't get in a hurry and force it. Sometimes trying first to tighten it a tiny bit will break the rust bond. As soon as it twitches stop.

Once you get it moving a bit you may have to repeatedly tighten and loosen. Add more penetrant. Each iteration will move it a bit further until it comes out. Patience.
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Old 02-26-2021, 01:26 AM   #4
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Some of us might be nervous about using a welder in the engine room, but you could unbolt the manifold and take it to a machine shop for removal and installation of a helicoil if necessary. Be very patient, I believe the manifolds are very difficult to find.
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Old 02-26-2021, 05:36 AM   #5
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Old 02-26-2021, 05:41 AM   #6
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If we could only learn such things at a young age
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Old 02-26-2021, 07:40 AM   #7
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I had the same problem. Nothing I did would allow me to remove the stud.
I removed the manifold, brought it my son's auto repair shop and he had it out in less than a minute.
Heated it cherry red, stuck a crayon on it to let the wax suck in between the stud and the manifold and put a vise grip on it and it easily spun out.
I tried heating it on the engine but the mass was too much for me to get it hot using what I had which was a map gas torch.
While it was out I had that end surface machined clean to get rid of the corrosion that was there in one location.
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Old 02-26-2021, 10:34 AM   #8
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Soak stud with PB Blaster. Apply heat to manifold. Rinse and repeat.
It looks as though you can get 2 nuts over what's left so be patient. Too much torque will break it off flush. Then you will have to drill it out and install helicoil.

I would probably put a nut on top to protect the threads, heat up manifold so it's a little too hot to touch, then spray PB Blaster, then tap nut with hammer. Keep repeating.

If you have a wire fed welder just weld a nut on top and heat should break it free.
There’s no threads left so I can’t get any nuts on. Those are marks from the vice grips. I’ve been using some heat and Liquid Wrench. I’m going to get a better pair of vice grips today and keep working at it. Thanks
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Old 02-26-2021, 10:35 AM   #9
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Soak stud with PB Blaster. Apply heat to manifold. Rinse and repeat.
It looks as though you can get 2 nuts over what's left so be patient. Too much torque will break it off flush. Then you will have to drill it out and install helicoil.

I would probably put a nut on top to protect the threads, heat up manifold so it's a little too hot to touch, then spray PB Blaster, then tap nut with hammer. Keep repeating.

If you have a wire fed welder just weld a nut on top and heat should break it free.
I don’t have a wire welder but I will get some PB blaster today and keep patiently working at it.
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Old 02-26-2021, 10:36 AM   #10
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👍 thanks
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Old 02-26-2021, 10:42 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by jleonard View Post
I had the same problem. Nothing I did would allow me to remove the stud.
I removed the manifold, brought it my son's auto repair shop and he had it out in less than a minute.
Heated it cherry red, stuck a crayon on it to let the wax suck in between the stud and the manifold and put a vise grip on it and it easily spun out.
I tried heating it on the engine but the mass was too much for me to get it hot using what I had which was a map gas torch.
While it was out I had that end surface machined clean to get rid of the corrosion that was there in one location.
I’ll keep working at it but I might end up having to do the same. It’s in an awkward place and hard to get concentrated heat on it. Was it hard to get the entire manifold off?
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Old 02-26-2021, 10:42 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by av8r View Post
Some of us might be nervous about using a welder in the engine room, but you could unbolt the manifold and take it to a machine shop for removal and installation of a helicoil if necessary. Be very patient, I believe the manifolds are very difficult to find.
Thanks, I might have to do that.
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Old 02-26-2021, 11:14 AM   #13
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PB Blaster (or Kroil) and heat. Use a mapp gas torch. Once you get manifold hot, spray stud then tap it with hammer. It might take an hour or two. Acetylene torch would make quick work of it but guessing most of us don't have a portable setup.

Start soaking manifold to head studs in case you have to remove manifold.
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Old 02-26-2021, 11:25 AM   #14
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I’ll keep working at it but I might end up having to do the same. It’s in an awkward place and hard to get concentrated heat on it. Was it hard to get the entire manifold off?
No not hard didn’t take long but it’s heavy.
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Old 02-26-2021, 11:27 AM   #15
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Greetings,
You have to be VERY careful heating cast iron with acetylene. MAPP will work eventually IMO. As mentioned, patience. Might even take days!
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Old 02-26-2021, 11:28 AM   #16
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PB Blaster (or Kroil) and heat. Use a mapp gas torch. Once you get manifold hot, spray stud then tap it with hammer. It might take an hour or two. Acetylene torch would make quick work of it but guessing most of us don't have a portable setup.

Start soaking manifold to head studs in case you have to remove manifold.
No way mine was getting hot enough with just a map gas torch but it was in the winter in Ct and everything was ice cold.
Once I made the decision to remove the manifold I didn’t have more than 1 1/2 hours of labor into it for the complete Rand R
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Old 02-27-2021, 12:19 AM   #17
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Success

I was able to remove the stud today. It was a combination of PB Blaster, propane torch, wax and a stud extractor that I picked up from the parts store. I hit it with the PB, heated it for a long time and then touched the wax to the stud which sucked into the threads and slowly was able to move the stud back and forth with the extractor. Kept repeating this process with more movement each time and it eventually wound out.
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Old 02-27-2021, 12:38 AM   #18
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Sweet!

I'd never heard the wax tip. Read about it and now see how it worked all in the space of a few posts
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Old 02-27-2021, 01:29 AM   #19
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Good work, I also like PB Blaster.
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Old 02-27-2021, 04:32 AM   #20
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