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Old 02-27-2021, 04:57 AM   #21
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I have never seen a stud extractor like that. Who makes it? Looks like a handy tool to have in the toolbox.
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Old 02-27-2021, 07:50 AM   #22
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Sweet!

I'd never heard the wax tip. Read about it and now see how it worked all in the space of a few posts
I never heard of it until my son showed me when he worked on the manifold.
He sees a lot more problems like that than I ever would
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Old 02-27-2021, 08:04 AM   #23
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Im late to the thread, but they have a induction heater for bolts that is on my short list. it would make short work of this.
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Old 02-27-2021, 12:28 PM   #24
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Stud Extractor

I Picked up this Extractor at the local parts store. It worked quite well. It bites down on the stud as you use a ratchet or wrench on it.
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Old 02-27-2021, 12:34 PM   #25
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Sweet!

I'd never heard the wax tip. Read about it and now see how it worked all in the space of a few posts
Another tip I had was to use a propane torch to heat the manifold so the metal expands and once it's good and hot turn the propane torch off and on again so it's only the cold propane gas coming out and direct it at only the broken stud for a few seconds to shrink the stud metal and then give it a go with vice grips or an extractor.
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Old 02-27-2021, 12:42 PM   #26
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Exhaust Elbow gasket silicone

One more question...
My new exhaust elbow and gasket should arrive from American Diesel next week. I'm pretty happy with the mating surface of the manifold that the gasket and elbow will attach to. Should I use some temperature / water resistant RTV sealant on both sides of the gasket as well?
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Old 02-27-2021, 02:25 PM   #27
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One more question...
My new exhaust elbow and gasket should arrive from American Diesel next week. I'm pretty happy with the mating surface of the manifold that the gasket and elbow will attach to. Should I use some temperature / water resistant RTV sealant on both sides of the gasket as well?
Yes, but you should use HIGH-TEMP sealant.
Also coat all threads with anti-seize compound.
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Old 02-27-2021, 04:15 PM   #28
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American Diesel recommends Permatex #2 on the manifold side only. I replaced mine last year having driven to AD in Kilmarnock, VA and consulting with Brian when picking up the elbows.
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Old 02-27-2021, 06:24 PM   #29
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If I had an open tube of #2 I would use it. If I had to buy a tube I would buy high-temp. #2 is good for 400F, high-temp to 650F. The exhaust elbow requires a gasket so any type of sealant/gasket material is probably OCD.
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Old 02-27-2021, 06:32 PM   #30
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Just curious , why were you replacing the elbow ?
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Old 02-27-2021, 06:39 PM   #31
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You were lucky in that you had a nice amount of the broken stud left to work with.

Check out YouTube if it happens again, there is lots of good advice there.

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Old 02-27-2021, 10:21 PM   #32
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Just curious , why were you replacing the elbow ?
I'm doing some maintenance to the engine, replacing the oil cooler and trans cooler and hoses, I took off the heat exchanger and took it to a rad shop to be cleaned and pressure tested. I took off the elbow to check it and found quite a bit of corrosion at the exhaust pipe joint and it was weeping a small amount of coolant at the joint to the manifold. The surface on the manifold seems good so I figure I'll change out the elbow now and know that it will be good for a long time.
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Old 02-28-2021, 08:40 AM   #33
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Worn out?
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Just curious , why were you replacing the elbow ?
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Old 02-28-2021, 10:32 AM   #34
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Worn out?
Yes worn out.
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Old 02-28-2021, 12:19 PM   #35
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An interesting thread. I learned a lot.

Jim
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Old 03-01-2021, 05:00 PM   #36
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Another suggestion - occasionally, I do it every six months or so, back the bolts out a bit and retighten. No worries then about frozen mounting bolts. One could even apply new anti-seize once in awhile.
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Old 03-05-2021, 03:24 PM   #37
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I’m all for the heat and penetrant of your choice as a primer but have had exceptional luck with 30 seconds of rat tat tat using a Sears cordless nail driver (palm nailer). For some reason the small repeated blows are an order of magnitude better than the old ball peen. I used vice grips starting with very small back and forth twists.
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Old 03-05-2021, 03:36 PM   #38
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Clean, straight threads

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Originally Posted by Ttsaang View Post
I was able to remove the stud today. It was a combination of PB Blaster, propane torch, wax and a stud extractor that I picked up from the parts store. I hit it with the PB, heated it for a long time and then touched the wax to the stud which sucked into the threads and slowly was able to move the stud back and forth with the extractor. Kept repeating this process with more movement each time and it eventually wound out.

Run a clean tap into each hole, with some grease in the flutes to trap and lift out any garbage on the way out. Use Anti-Seize on fresh stud threads but be cautious of over-tightening as the anti-seize will lower torque readings.
Clean threads are important, along with fresh washers and nuts.
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Old 03-05-2021, 05:20 PM   #39
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Glad you got that sucker out of there!! I had several break off in my aftercooler housing (Volvo Penta TAMD-41B)....unfortunately, steel studs broken off below flush, in an aluminum housing. That was NOT fun to fix!!
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Old 03-11-2021, 04:39 PM   #40
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Someone above wrote that they took the whole manifold to the shop and the stud was heated cherry red. This (IMHO) is the whole story - you have to put concentrated heat onto the stud. MAP is not sufficient - it has to be oxy-acetylene. Furthermore, you dont need to remove the manifold - you just need to apply the right torch (oxy-acetylene) - the "mass" of the manifold is not an issue compared to concentrated the heating power of oxy-acetylene.

If necessary, multiple cycles of cherry red and cool down. I have not tried the wax application but this sounds like a nice trick.

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