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Old 08-09-2020, 05:31 PM   #41
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What vacuume are you referring to? The cooling system is under pressure while engine is running and maintains that pressure with the thermostati coolant fill cap until the engine cools.
When it is cooled off (and can be opened for inspection), it has gone from a pressure to a vacuum. The hot layer of air above the coolant has cooled to create a vacuum. Put your ear by the cap and open slowly. It will suck in air if the system has no leaks.
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Old 08-09-2020, 10:27 PM   #42
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What vacuume are you referring to? The cooling system is under pressure while engine is running and maintains that pressure with the thermostati coolant fill cap until the engine cools.

If the petcock is opened first before the cap on a hot engine, coolant will shoot out from pressure. Opening the petcock on a cold engine, coolant appears at the petcock opening after air is expelled but does not spill out.

#6 cylinder is at the low end of the manifold. Any trapped air would migrate to the high point where the petcock resides. And besides, AD has reversed their thinking on the #6 cylinder issue.
I think I have to agree about the vacuum. I check expansion tank water level often and find it hard to remove and then it breaks free. As said above, if you are opening the petcock first it would draw in air letting you think there was air in there to start with. Test it by taking off rad cap and then opening petcock.
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Old 08-10-2020, 01:41 AM   #43
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Joe, Pop or Doc may have worked on a number of Ford Lehman engines, only 1, NOT in that group was involved in the design, Bob.
Clarification. Bob was involved in the design of the marinized parts. Not the engine. Bomac Marine or Logan Diesel rebuild Lehmans as a business. AD sells some marinized parts.

So if you want parts, call Brian. If you want engine knowledge, call Joe, Pop, or Doc.
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Old 08-10-2020, 07:47 AM   #44
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Sir, I do think Brian Smith knows a thing or two about Lehman engines.
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Originally Posted by SoWhat View Post
Clarification. Bob was involved in the design of the marinized parts. Not the engine. Bomac Marine or Logan Diesel rebuild Lehmans as a business. AD sells some marinized parts.

So if you want parts, call Brian. If you want engine knowledge, call Joe, Pop, or Doc.
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Old 08-27-2020, 06:40 PM   #45
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I talked to the guys at A.D about it and they said it's not nearly as common as what message forums claim....they said when that happens there are other warning signs that are often ignored like other cylinders getting hot first ...kinda makes some sense why would cylinder 1 be 180 and number 6 be 300 yes im sure number 6 can be warmer than the others if clogged but the other cylinders would get warmer also....I talked to them about putting an sensor at #6 and they said that may help but it would be mounted external and have some variances in temp and may or may not be a good indicator if there was a problem...I asked about routing more fluid to 6 and also makes sense that what I route to 6 gets routed away from another cylinder so now I may have new issues at a different cylinder....they said as long as coolant was flushed regularly and I had good water flow and that I paid attention to heat temp gauge I should never have a problem so I guess I'll just go with that...
I may get the expansion tank at some point in hopes that maybe if there was an air bubble in 6 jacket maybe it would come up into the expansion tank....not completely sure I understand how the expansion tank would help serve to eliminate that issue
You should have a petcock on the fore end of your engine block. Make sure you open that up and take the radiator cap off. You should get Coolant coming out. If not, you have an air bubble. It’s one of my pre-trip checks. I also did the expansion tank replacement. Was pretty simple.
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Old 08-27-2020, 06:56 PM   #46
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I usta be a big fan of expansion tanks but for years I’ve just check and fill as necessary at the rad cap on top of the exhaust manifold.

Since I have a remote heat exchanger the top half of the exhaust manifold is almost full of coolant. I also have a “Murphy Switch” on the outboard side that is wired to an sound alarm. Saved our skins once at Cape Caution.

If I had an FL I’d provide some way of syphoning off or pumping coolant from the back of #6 cyl. out to the front of the engine probably close to the coolant pump intake. That and adding the hole between the block and head as described previously.
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Old 08-27-2020, 08:49 PM   #47
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If you get the expansion tank conversion, it will make checking the coolant level a non-issue and you will stop putting coolant in the bilge. The level should now vary over a smaller amount.

Check the dipstick oil level (to make sure its been re-marked) and change the coolant or add to its additives regularly. Service the injectors when they need it and set the valves when the book says. Change the Sims oil at 50 hours or after testing, up to 100 hours. YMMV.

Follow the manual.

Idle before shifting gears, warm up with a load, not over 1200 rpm until warm.

Then repeat regularly for 10 or 20 years.
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