Fluid / filter changes needed after sitting 1.5 years?

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

mncruiser

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2017
Messages
345
Location
United States
Vessel Name
Phoenix
Vessel Make
Mainship 390
New to me 2001 Mainship 390. Single Yanmar 6LP-STE. Freshwater only boat.

Boat has been sitting for 1.5 years in heated storage in Michigan.

All this was done November 2019:
- Engine oil and filter changed (Rotella 15/40)
- Engine fuel filter changed (Yanmar) and Racor checked and element replaced
- Kohler Gen oil and filter changed
- Kohler Gen fuel filter replaced
- Biocide added to tanks
- Stanadyne Diesel fuel additive added

-*Transmission fluid changed June of 2019 (just found this record)

Boat will be moved (3-4 day trip Great Lakes) hopefully after memorial day. I'll be there next week and would likely have time to do all fluids and filters if needed.

What should my priority be? I am interested in oil analysis testing going forward, and know that "sitting oil" can gather up stuff that may skew any testing I do.

Personally I feel like engine and gen oil are probably a must. Can I skip the filters this time? I'd never skip those normally, but they have not been used.

Thanks for your thoughts!
 
Last edited:
I'm assuming the vessel sat with fresh oil and filters for the period until you purchased it. IMHO the oil should be.fine until you reach your home port. Ditto the transmission fluid unless it looks bad on a paper towel test or has more than 250 hours. Get her home and zero everything out including an oil analysis so you can pay eyes on attention to all things mechanical.

Change the raw water impeller before you embark though.
 
Last edited:
I'm assuming the vessel sat with fresh oil and filters for the period until you purchased it. IMHO the oil should be.fine until you reach your home port. Ditto the transmission fluid unless it looks bad on a paper towel test or has more than 250 hours. Get her home and zero everything out including an oil analysis so you can pay eyes on attention to all things mechanical.

Change the raw water impeller before you embark though.

Thanks.

Yes, the vessel has been sitting until now.

Just figured out I missed the transmission oil change....found it was done in June 2019.

Good idea on the impeller. There are 2 spares sitting on the boat. No records I can see of that being changed. I feel like they did it in 2018 around some seawater pump service stuff, but the impeller part# is not listed. I feel like I saw a sticker saying it was changed.....but now can't remember.
 
Sitting for a long layup is death on an impeller. Perish the thought that someone removed it for this period - not uncommon.

Your money, may I suggest a new raw water pump at some point and use the current one as a running takeout. Watch the weep holes in both the raw water and coolant pump for any drips; these pumps hate long lay ups.
 
Last edited:
Sitting for a long layup is death on an impeller. Perish the thought that someone removed it for this period - not uncommon.

Your money, may I suggest a new raw water pump at some point and use the current one as a running takeout. Watch the weep holes in both the raw water and coolant pump for any drips; these pumps hate long lay ups.

I'll be checking the impeller for sure. Not sure I can swing a new pump unless I can find one locally up there (Charlevoix, MI) but I may give it a shot.

Just have to figure out the part number now....

Thanks!
 
Don't worry about the engine, genny or tranny oil or filters.

Concentrate on batteries and pumps (engine cooling,bilge, fresh water, air conditioner, shower, toilet).

pete
 
My first thought is take a spare raw water pump for a 3 to 4 day trip on a freshly brokered boat. If it was a 4 hour trip I would be less concerned. Note my experience is from moving up and down the west coast were ports are far apart and all parts come fedex. Would replace the impellers at a minimum. If time permits I would replace the oils and filters. I am not overly concerned about the fluids but you didn’t mention how many hours are on the fluids. Think I would bring several back up fuel filters as a precaution, probably over kill but I’d rather be safe than sorry. Would also make sure to have a spare set of belts. Again, being overly cautious.

My guess is you are going to turn the key and have a nice trip home. Life just never seems to work out so easy for me.
 
IMO, do them all. Then, you have a base line.
The oil should be fine and heated up real good for sampling when you get to your destination.
Buy spare impellers to take with you, 3 each. We dont know the condition of the current one.

Test all bilge pumps and fresh water pump.

Spare filters etc.... especially fuel filters.
 
Last edited:
And know how to change the fuel filters and bleed the engine fuel system.
 
As others have said the core engine should be fine after 1-1/2 years in heated storage. Check the impeller, bilge pump and whatever living systems- fresh water pump, toilet flush, etc are important for your trip home and you should be good to go.

David
 
I just got my oil reports back with a no need to change fluids after 100+ hours so this boat had all fluids and filters changed before being put to bed. No need to change oil or filters. I agree impellers sitting, change them.
Fuel had biocide added & a stabilizer, I would add biocide.
The unexpected may occur, murphy said.
After that 3-4 day run, send the oils in to get a report for baseline.
 
My first thought is take a spare raw water pump for a 3 to 4 day trip on a freshly brokered boat. If it was a 4 hour trip I would be less concerned. Note my experience is from moving up and down the west coast were ports are far apart and all parts come fedex. Would replace the impellers at a minimum. If time permits I would replace the oils and filters. I am not overly concerned about the fluids but you didn’t mention how many hours are on the fluids. Think I would bring several back up fuel filters as a precaution, probably over kill but I’d rather be safe than sorry. Would also make sure to have a spare set of belts. Again, being overly cautious.

My guess is you are going to turn the key and have a nice trip home. Life just never seems to work out so easy for me.



There are zero hours on the current fluids.

I will be taking several 3-4 hour trips before we set out on the main trip.

There are 4 spare belts, 2 spare impellers, 2 spare Racor filters. All these are new.

Thanks for the reply!
 
IMO, do them all. Then, you have a base line.
The oil should be fine and heated up real good for sampling when you get to your destination.
Buy spare impellers to take with you, 3 each. We dont know the condition of the current one.

Test all bilge pumps and fresh water pump.

Spare filters etc.... especially fuel filters.



You mentioned 3 impellers. There are 2 spare for the engine. If I replace one I’ll have one spare. You just are thinking an extra extra?

Thanks
 
You mentioned 3 impellers. There are 2 spare for the engine. If I replace one I’ll have one spare. You just are thinking an extra extra?

Thanks

Yup, extra extra. SMILE Impellers do fail. When your spare impeller fails your anxiety level goes up.
Take lots of fuel filters. Remember your fuel has been sitting for a year.
Yup spare belts for main engine and generator.
 
Don't worry about the engine, genny or tranny oil or filters.

Concentrate on batteries and pumps (engine cooling,bilge, fresh water, air conditioner, shower, toilet).

pete



Thanks for the thoughts. Two 8D house and one 4D starting are new as of June 2019. I’ll be checking water on batteries.

Boat didn’t get used all of 2020.

Gen battery will be replaced when I get there as a tweaked out bilge pump is hooked to it and killed the genny battery.

Freshwater water system (house water pump)pump is new with zero use. Old one still works and is a spare.

Toilet pump is new as of September 2018.

I’m replacing a few bilge pumps. There is a high water one. Any ideas how to test that? Big bucket?
 
And know how to change the fuel filters and bleed the engine fuel system.



For sure! I figured that out via video (Great Lakes Diesel video class) about a month ago. I just have to find the pump and bleeders on my setup.

Looking forward to lots of engine room time to actually figure out what is what!

Dave, want to drive over and take me out for some docking and driving practice on Lake Charlevoix?

;-)
 
Thank you all for the replies!

I’m inclined to leave all the fluids and double down on batteries, belts, impellers, pumps, and everything else of that nature. If I can get a spare raw water pump I may do that.

I’ve also got a lot of stuff to find and label. Got a kick a$$ Brady label machine coming with pretty black and yellow and black and white fancy tape

I know I’ll be finding some things that throw me off, the fluid changes are simple but I’m going to need all the time I can get.

The boat effect always happens to me. I budget a project for an hour. It takes 4. I’m ok with it.

I’m sure I’ll be back here…maybe with pics this time maybe as soon as Thursday!

Y’all are the best. I hope to help others as much as you’ve all helped me!
 
Yup, extra extra. SMILE Impellers do fail. When your spare impeller fails your anxiety level goes up.

Take lots of fuel filters. Remember your fuel has been sitting for a year.

Yup spare belts for main engine and generator.



Thanks.

If you asked my wife how many spares she thought I would want she would say “62” or something ridiculous.

Spares are my style. This whole deal makes me a little uncomfortable, I like stuff figured out. But going to give it a good shot to get things right for the trip back.

Then I can have lots of time to obsess over stuff. Lol.

Thanks!
 
If your 6LPA-STE is anything like my 6LPA-STP, there is a hand priming pump atop the engine-mounted filter. Crack the first fuel line fitting beyond the filter and push down on the circular plastic pump pusher - it has a very short stroke and is spring-loaded. When pure fuel with no bubbles come out of the loosened fitting, you're done.

Since it has zero hours, I would shut the fuel supply valves at the tanks and just pull up the Racor filter element to be sure it is still white - "stuff" can grow in there. when I change the Racors, I drain the bowl and insert a new filter before opening the fuel supply from the tanks to refill the filter body. No priming as in paragraph one is ever necessary, BUT my Racors are below all but the last few gallons in the tanks, AND my tanks are bottom draw. Your tanks may be top draw, so be careful about not losing prime by opening a Racor without the tanks shut off.
 
Life would be so much easier if you had a fuel polishing system and the feed was off the bottom of the tanks.
Please consider it.
 
Just as insurance I would purchase new hoses for the engine , and carry them aboard , install after you get home.


Proper, not auto hose clamps too.
 
Were the fuel tanks stored full? If no you can expect water from condensation, a lot of water. Closely monitor your Racors underway.
 
Update. We made the 500 some mile journey a few weeks ago. Burned about 400 gallons of diesel over 6 days.

The final leg we had the tanks down to about 20-30 gallons of 300. No issues.

Today I changed the racors and secondary Yanmar filter. Racors were maybe a tiny bit dirty. Bowl spotless. I drained all diesel from the filters into a container, it sat for a few hours. No water I could see at all.

Heated storage and exceptional maintenance by the former owner probably was a big factor.

Thanks!
 
Were the fuel tanks stored full? If no you can expect water from condensation, a lot of water. Closely monitor your Racors underway.


Ours sat for 10 years with tanks half full prior to us buying her.

Zero water in tanks
Zero stabiliser used.
Zero issues
 

Latest posts

Back
Top Bottom