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Old 03-22-2020, 06:32 AM   #21
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Clean the engine with whatever works, then apply clear spray paint. Leaves a nice shine, protects from corrosion, and won’t cause particles to stick after it’s dry. Also will only smell for an hour, or two after you spray it!
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Old 03-22-2020, 10:16 AM   #22
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Using Diesel as a wipe down product performs two functions. First there is a chemical reaction called “Like dissolves like”
So the new diesel being wiped would remove residual fuel on the engine parts, by dissolving it.

Second, The diesel spray usage applies an anti corrosion hydrocarbon coating on all metal in the ER.
Cleaning and painting is the preferred / best method.

“Cleaning” or degreasing with solvents has its risk because now it exposes bare metal (unpainted) areas to the salt air at elevated temperatures.
Elevated temps and salt air stimulate rust and galvanic corrosion.

Of course, newer engines vs older engines have different positions on this matter.

On my 35 yr old trawler with Lehmans, mine has a sheen of diesel.
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Old 03-22-2020, 11:11 AM   #23
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I'm sorry but after working my tail off the ensure are fuel systems at completely leak-proof and the bilges and engine room cleaned of diesel to the point that I can (and HAVE) smelled a single drop of diesel in there, the thought of wiping the engine with that nasty stuff is pure anathema to me. There are far less obnoxious and equally or more effective chemicals mentioned above.
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Old 03-22-2020, 11:28 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by BruceK View Post
Won`t spraying an engine with an oil cause every available dust and dirt particle to adhere to it. Yes, not a lot of dust in the ER, but plenty of air gets drawn in to feed the engines.
I’m w Bruce on this one.
I think we should be wiping oil off the engine .. not onto it.
Never heard of a perfectly clean diesel engine so as you wipe off dust you’ll get at least a bit of oil on the rag but probably not enough to attract dust, hair ect ect. Perfect.
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Old 03-22-2020, 03:59 PM   #25
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The French Navy corrosion-proofs metals with varnish. Sticks great, dries nicely, if you use “real” varnish not Bristol or anything with solvents, it’s not even toxic. Dries pretty much in an hour or two, no nasty cleanup (mineral spirits for cleanup) and is impervious to oil and diesel. Spraying rattle-can paint in your engine room is a great way to poison yourself or blow yourself up, but ymmv.
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Old 03-22-2020, 06:55 PM   #26
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+1
I’d vote for high oil varnish over high resin for flexibility.
But oil based “paint” is basically the same thing and there’s lots of specialized paint that would probably be even better. And colors ...
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Old 03-22-2020, 07:38 PM   #27
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I paint my FL 120 with red Rustoleum oil based paint with a brush. On parts taken off for service, rattle can red Rustoleum.

I recently purchased a Powder Coating Gun from Eastwood to powder coat some engine parts on my car. I might try some on boat engine parts too. Looking for an inexpensive oven to bake the finish.

To powder coat a part is to prep, preheat, coat the part then bake it in an oven for 30 to 45 minutes, cool the part and it's ready to install. A lot less time.

Painting take several thin coats, dry between coats and let dry overnight to harden the paint.
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Old 03-22-2020, 08:00 PM   #28
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Wash down with Simple Green to remove dirt and dust (mostly from plethora drive belts). Spray with CorrosionX when dry, wipe down and spread any excess, Spray corrosion prone areas with LPS-3 -do not wipe off. Spray belts & hoses with belt dressing.

I keep the engine as clean as possible so that I can spot any leaks, oil, hydraulic, exhaust, as soon as possible. Yanmar is tight as a drum - generator, not so much!!
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Old 03-23-2020, 08:32 AM   #29
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Bought something like this from Mercedes maybe thirty years ago. It was cheap and easy, just my style.

https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/381.0_en.html
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Old 03-24-2020, 04:19 PM   #30
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Sheila Shine (R) The stuff works great and smells even better. You will find yourself using it all over the vessel. It is made for kitchens.
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Old 03-24-2020, 04:20 PM   #31
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Greetings,
Welcome aboard.
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Old 03-24-2020, 08:04 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgano View Post
I'm sorry but after working my tail off the ensure are fuel systems at completely leak-proof and the bilges and engine room cleaned of diesel to the point that I can (and HAVE) smelled a single drop of diesel in there, the thought of wiping the engine with that nasty stuff is pure anathema to me. There are far less obnoxious and equally or more effective chemicals mentioned above.
My Wendy would certainly agree with you there!!!! And I do too!
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Old 03-25-2020, 11:57 AM   #33
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I do to and hence why I started this thread in the first place. Personally I found diesel to be the best wiping agent overall, except I couldn’t stand the smell any longer.

My Jimmies didn’t leak too bad, so I would wipe with a soapy rag and rinse with the freshwater hose in my engine room. But I always thought that applying some sort of wiping oil would be better, especially when sitting long term.

My outboards have been easy... wash with freshwater, air dry then spray with WD40.
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Old 03-26-2020, 05:25 AM   #34
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Hmmmmm...........Mint
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Old 03-27-2020, 02:21 PM   #35
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Two things work well in my experience. first is motorcycle chain oil. Sprays on, then thickens. So it gets everywhere and stays put. Just wipe off excess. Does not really attract dirt as much as you'd think.

Second is a product called Fluid Film https://www.fluid-film.com/

I think every farmer in the country knows about it. I buy it by the gallon, and thin it with WD 40 so I can spray with squirt bottle.

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Old 03-30-2020, 06:34 AM   #36
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"Second is a product called Fluid Film https://www.fluid-film.com/"


This is a lanolin based product that does a great job on bronze and galvanized protection.
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Old 03-31-2020, 09:00 AM   #37
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Quote:
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"Second is a product called Fluid Film https://www.fluid-film.com/"


This is a lanolin based product that does a great job on bronze and galvanized protection.
I have used this years ago, but unless it has changed, it has a godawful stench.
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