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Old 04-15-2018, 07:39 AM   #21
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While it probably won't make much of a difference at cruising speed, 6 cylinder engines are inherently smoother running at low rpm than 4 cylinder engines. My John Deere has counter rotating balance shafts, but it's still nowhere near as smooth as a 6 cylinder when idling or running just above idle.

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Old 04-15-2018, 09:20 AM   #22
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I am thinking of replacing a Ford Lehman 120 with a Yanmat 4jH110 common rail Diesel engine. The boat is a Blue Seas 36 at 12 tonnes. Any thoughts? Has anyone done this?
Why replace it? If it aint broke, keep the money in your wallet.
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Old 04-15-2018, 10:37 AM   #23
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I would not want a 4cyl high rev motor in a trawler unless it has counter rotating balance shafts. The inherent second order vibe of a 4cyl can be very annoying at high rev, and to get to hull speed this thing will need to spin up pretty high.

I looked up the engine but could not find if it had balance shafts or not. I know the earlier 4jh did not.

Big difference in sound quality. A big six at 1500 just purrs. A little four at 2500 sounds like a chainsaw.

My vote is for a big heavy slow six with no computers. Even if locked up, a full reman may not be needed. I've unstuck several engines in my shop where water sat in a cyl. Beat out old piston, hone if not bad, bore if bad, some new parts and out the door for like $5k.
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Old 04-15-2018, 03:13 PM   #24
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As far as the 4JH 110 having enough punch for a 36 at 12 tons, ask the Island Packet guys like CarDude. He’s got a 41 PY Cruiser at about the same weight. True, this is a 3500+ RPM engine and mating to a big prop would take some gear, but there’s plenty of parts around and even a good selection of used engines. There’s at least one or two 12 ton Krogen Manatees with 4 JH’s, but one should note that the original Volvos were also 3600 RPM engines, so gearing and props were fairly well matched.
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Old 04-15-2018, 03:53 PM   #25
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Engine replacement

I have that Yanmar 110hp in my boat. It pushes it at about 7 knots at a comfortable RPM of 2000, but I have a pretty slippery sailboat type hull. It will push my boat 8 knots but that’s way too noisy for me at 3000 rpm.

My boat also weighs about 12 tons and has a waterline of 35’.

I don’t think you would be happy with the 110HP Yanmar. I would rather have a lower reviving, bigger displacement engine in a boat that size.
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Old 04-15-2018, 05:51 PM   #26
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I agree the 110hp engine will probably not be enough power. But that’s basing my opinion on Bruce’s opinion that the OP’s hull is like an IG.

My opinion is that the newer engines are better than the FL and would find one if it were me. MER in Seattle offered a JD that was intended to be a drop in unit for replacing the FL. Don’t know their prices and I do know one customer of theirs that was disapointed in MER. I liked him a lot but he was a bit of an odd duck.

But if the OP’s boat is a FD the 110 Yanmar would be at least close to ideal.
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Old 04-15-2018, 05:53 PM   #27
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I have that Yanmar 110hp in my boat. It pushes it at about 7 knots at a comfortable RPM of 2000, but I have a pretty slippery sailboat type hull. It will push my boat 8 knots but that’s way too noisy for me at 3000 rpm.

My boat also weighs about 12 tons and has a waterline of 35’.

I don’t think you would be happy with the 110HP Yanmar. I would rather have a lower reviving, bigger displacement engine in a boat that size.
Dude,
Is that the 3000rpm JH or the 3800rpm engine?
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Old 04-15-2018, 05:59 PM   #28
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Why replace it? If it aint broke, keep the money in your wallet.
Dan,the OP reports that the engine is seized, and the boat unused for 6 years. It is "broke".
The boat has an ask of 79K, needs an engine and paint,and suffers 6 years disuse. Here is one that works and looks loved.Unfortunately located a distance from the OP but not far from me,asking 99K.
https://www.boatsonline.com.au/boats...cruiser/213029
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Old 04-15-2018, 06:19 PM   #29
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Engine replacement

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Dude,

Is that the 3000rpm JH or the 3800rpm engine?

This is the one I have. 110hp at 3200 RPM. I try to run mine at 2000-2200, burning a little under 2gph. But with the steady sails (if there’s decent wind) I can pull it back to about 1500 and it burns about 1/2 a gallon.

https://www.yanmar.com/media/global/...r-4JH4-HTE.pdf
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Old 04-15-2018, 06:46 PM   #30
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Yeah, I realized too late that the O.P was in Australia.
It might still be worth asking American diesel for advice. The logistics of shipping may not be worth it but the advice could well be.
Try it.
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Old 04-16-2018, 02:15 AM   #31
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Dan,the OP reports that the engine is seized, and the boat unused for 6 years. It is "broke".
The boat has an ask of 79K, needs an engine and paint,and suffers 6 years disuse. Here is one that works and looks loved.Unfortunately located a distance from the OP but not far from me,asking 99K.
https://www.boatsonline.com.au/boats...cruiser/213029
Get a diesel mechanic down there. He may be able to disassemble the engine in place, un-seize it, put it all back together and make it work. Replacing the engine is the last thing I want to do. On a car, pull the hood, get the engine lift, pull the engine and take it to the bench. On a boat, not so easy. Get an estimate in time and money. In place they can pull off lots of parts hone the cylinders, maybe replace some sleeves and piston and maybe even the crank shaft but, the block stays in place. IF the mechanic say, "I can do it onboard, in place...." that is one thing. If he says, "I have to remove the engine.", toss him the keys and plan on wood work, reconstruction, yard fees etc. You can either hang around ringing your hands or take a cruise on a BIG boat.
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Old 04-16-2018, 06:44 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceK View Post
Dan,the OP reports that the engine is seized, and the boat unused for 6 years. It is "broke".
The boat has an ask of 79K, needs an engine and paint,and suffers 6 years disuse. Here is one that works and looks loved.Unfortunately located a distance from the OP but not far from me,asking 99K.
https://www.boatsonline.com.au/boats...cruiser/213029
I agree Bruce. There are better deals out there.
Here's another possibility.
https://yachthub.com/list/boats-for-...a-queen/216397
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Old 04-16-2018, 07:05 AM   #33
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AusCan, I agree with you. The price is way too high if the engine needs replacement, totally.

Talk to the owner, be honest with him..... then low ball your offer, big time.
If he doesnt like it, walk away and dont look back. As I told my broker, "There will always be another boat."
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Old 04-16-2018, 09:53 AM   #34
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Thanks guys you have all been a great help. The price has been reduced to 59k but with the amount of work required I wouldn't offer more than 30k. The oval Windows all leak rain with much damage to the teak in the v berth. The teak decks are in poor condition and a complete paint job is required. This as well as a seized engine. The boat in Sydney is very attractive and an even better one sold recently for 140k. I'm sure something will come up in the next month or three. In the mean time I have a yacht to sell. Again many thanks
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Old 04-16-2018, 10:00 AM   #35
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Thanks guys you have all been a great help. The price has been reduced to 59k but with the amount of work required I wouldn't offer more than 30k. The oval Windows all leak rain with much damage to the teak in the v berth. The teak decks are in poor condition and a complete paint job is required. This as well as a seized engine. The boat in Sydney is very attractive and an even better one sold recently for 140k. I'm sure something will come up in the next month or three. In the mean time I have a yacht to sell. Again many thanks
With all those known problems, you gotta remember there are the unknown problems.

Dont walk away, run away like the devil is chasing you.

If you feel very generous, offer him 1K.

Why do people let their boats deteriorate to the point that there is no way to sell it or in many cases, give it away.
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Old 04-16-2018, 10:08 AM   #36
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May be able to “unsieze” the engine. If it’s seized from sitting and it sounds like that’s the case. If it’s siezed from gauled or siezed crankshaft bearings forget the treatment below.

Use “SeaFoam”. A product that was once called Risalone by the Shaler company. When I was a teenager I was given several outboards that were seized. I’d pour the stuff in the spark plug holes w the holes up. Leave sit for a day or so. Then w the engine sitting w the carbs up I’d pour the stuff into the crankcase. So the pistons got the Risaline treatment from both sides. Eventually the pistons would come loose and then the rings.

One could do the same w an FL. Need to get a path to the cylinders and I don’t think FL’s have heaters (glow plugs) so the injectors may need to be pulled. It’s a good idea to change oil shortly after the treatment as the oil will be diluted w SeaFoam. Or one may opt to run it a bit w the SeaFoam in the lube oil. It will make it a high detergent oil and it’s at least remotely possible the oil seals could be damaged over time. And maybe not. SeaFoam is recomended as an oil additive but w the treatment it could be a high concentration of SeaFoam. Another thought is to extract any SeaFoam remaining in any cylinder to gaurd against excessive compression when cranking w the starter motor. Probably all will drain down into the crankcase though.

Not much expense or trouble compared to R&R the engine. Could work.

And it’s possible the engine was in fair to even good shape before it siezed. Too much rust on the cylinder walls would probably render this treatment ineffective and a waste of time.

Oh .. just read about the condition of the boat. Forget it.
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Old 04-16-2018, 10:16 AM   #37
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Doncha hate it when you pour out your best advice and experience only to discover, "On the other side of the boat, there is a 12 ft hole in the hull." and "It was only underwater for a couple of weeks." LOL


Quote:
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May be able to “unsieze” the engine. If it’s seized from sitting and it sounds like that’s the case. If it’s siezed from gauled or siezed crankshaft bearings forget the treatment below.

Use “SeaFoam”. A product that was once called Risalone by the Shaler company. When I was a teenager I was given several outboards that were seized. I’d pour the stuff in the spark plug holes w the holes up. Leave sit for a day or so. Then w the engine sitting w the carbs up I’d pour the stuff into the crankcase. So the pistons got the Risaline treatment from both sides. Eventually the pistons would come loose and then the rings.

One could do the same w an FL. Need to get a path to the cylinders and I don’t think FL’s have heaters (glow plugs) so the injectors may need to be pulled. It’s a good idea to change oil shortly after the treatment as the oil will be diluted w SeaFoam. Or one may opt to run it a bit w the SeaFoam in the lube oil. It will make it a high detergent oil and it’s at least remotely possible the oil seals could be damaged over time. And maybe not. SeaFoam is recomended as an oil additive but w the treatment it could be a high concentration of SeaFoam. Another thought is to extract any SeaFoam remaining in any cylinder to gaurd against excessive compression when cranking w the starter motor. Probably all will drain down into the crankcase though.

Not much expense or trouble compared to R&R the engine. Could work.

And it’s possible the engine was in fair to even good shape before it siezed. Too much rust on the cylinder walls would probably render this treatment ineffective and a waste of time.

Oh .. just read about the condition of the boat. Forget it.
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Old 04-16-2018, 01:58 PM   #38
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It’s OK Dan.
Lucky to find something to talk about these days.
Had a hard time finding this.
Should be in Power Systems.
But I see thae OP only had 8 posts. Sorry.
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Old 04-16-2018, 06:12 PM   #39
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Good decision Duke. IMO repair cost exceeded price,before reduction.
The Blue Seas is similar to the IG 36,except the cockpit is tight, hardly room for a table and seating. Though that gives more interior space.
The Sydney boat had an ask of around 130K,I`d guess the owners are keen sellers. Good luck with your sale.
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Old 04-18-2018, 08:26 PM   #40
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When I rebuilt my 120 Lehman I was thinking of doing the same and rebuilt my Lehman for a lot less. I was looking at bomac marine too and think it would have been cheaper way to go too. They have replacement Lehman’s too. I took it apart and sent to a machine shop and went to the next size pistons. Still have my old ones. Bought all the parts from American diesel. Not cheap but done.
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