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Old 07-19-2018, 06:21 PM   #21
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I have found no detritus around the engine. When it makes the noise I feel/hear nothing coming from the engine/transmission. I also can't see or feel where the noise is coming from. Three of eight engine mounts are bottoming out on the frame, and according to Barry, that probably means they are shot. I have four new mounts on hand and will begin the arduous process of replacing them next week.

Had the mounts on the engine been slotted instead of drilled, the process would have been easier, slide one out and the other in. But I will have to find a way to lift the engine to replace the mounts....

Unless someone knows of a painless way to do It that I have not thought of.

Gordon
Without pictures... we're ALL guessing...
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Old 07-20-2018, 07:38 PM   #22
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OK, here's the picture

I changed this mount today. You will see that there is a pad at the bottom. According to the instructions the rubber pad is supposed to be no closer than an eighth of an inch from the bottom of the stringer and an eighth from the top of the mount.

I used the old mount to lift the engine a quarter inch or so and put a 2x4 under the front of the engine to support the weight while removing the mount. I unbolted the engine mounting bracket from the engine and took out the old mount and replaced it. I measured before putting the new one in.

Less than an hour from start to finish. Now I have three more to go. The new mount is holding the load while keeping the rubber snubber pad centered.
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Old 07-20-2018, 08:20 PM   #23
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Sounds pretty easy.
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Old 07-21-2018, 09:32 AM   #24
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That mount is completely destroyed! Yes good thing you're replacing all the mounts (especially if they all look like that)... you were basically "hard mounted" to the stringers... rock n roll!

When re-installing, the most important part of the final assessment will be to ensure that all mounts are in "parallel"... if your shaking your head... type in "Isolator Mounting & Parallelism" into Google and go from there... GOOD LUCK!
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Old 07-21-2018, 03:41 PM   #25
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One at a rime

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Originally Posted by DeroDiesel View Post
That mount is completely destroyed! Yes good thing you're replacing all the mounts (especially if they all look like that)... you were basically "hard mounted" to the stringers... rock n roll!

When re-installing, the most important part of the final assessment will be to ensure that all mounts are in "parallel"... if your shaking your head... type in "Isolator Mounting & Parallelism" into Google and go from there... GOOD LUCK!
Derodiesel,

Thanks for the assist. I changed each mount one at a time. I measured each one to ensure that I got it back to a near perfect alignment. In the end I needed to change only three. The others all have the specified eighth of an inch clearance above and below the pad as shown in the picture.

I tested the boat while tied to the dock. I still got it initial shaking bumping noise when putting that in gear, but this time it stopped within a second after the propeller came up to speed. Clearly this is an issue of engine bumping on the mounts. I may have to crank up the RPMs.
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Old 07-21-2018, 03:48 PM   #26
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What is your prop shaft flange to transmission output flange alignment tolerance? Are you within .0005 with a feeler gauge?
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Old 07-21-2018, 08:06 PM   #27
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0.0005"?

Like to see that done accurately.

Some pros will argue that many boats and flexible mountings make anything less than 0.001" for every inch of coupling diameter a waste of time.....especially the softer the mounts.
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Old 07-22-2018, 08:40 AM   #28
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Ocean Alexander manual calls for a .007 inch tolerance.
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Old 07-22-2018, 01:24 PM   #29
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TYPO ---- 5 thousandth's (0.005) or better is where you want to be...

My zero finger was working overtime...
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