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Old 04-03-2021, 05:10 PM   #21
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There are probably some set screws in the cutless bearing that will need to come out first. Then you can cut it and peel it out. Or you can use some all-thread and press it out and press the new one in.
Yes, two hex set screws. The yard here signed on to cutting it out and installing a new one without removing the flange. There are a couple of ports in the sides of the flange right up against the keel - I can actually see the driveshaft through them. So it would appear that the whole tube that runs up into the boat is wet until the driveshaft seal?
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Old 04-03-2021, 05:15 PM   #22
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The shaft will be wet right up to the packing on the stuffing box. Depending on your style of stuffing box depends on whether or not the box drips.
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Old 04-03-2021, 05:21 PM   #23
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The shaft will be wet right up to the packing on the stuffing box. Depending on your style of stuffing box depends on whether or not the box drips.
The stuffing box was actually the reason I ended up here to begin with. Had the old style gland and packing, failed on the water and I managed to stem the water coming in and get it to a lift in time. I'm single handed though, so monitoring that adjustment is difficult without a helper, so I am upgrading to a Tides Marine dripless on this go with the new driveshaft. That was the original idea of pulling the driveshaft, then was advised that there was too much degradation on the transmission end to get a good mate, so we got a new one. Probably the engine out of alignment and the worn cutlass bearing had something to do with that..
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Old 04-03-2021, 05:23 PM   #24
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The stuffing box was actually the reason I ended up here to begin with. Had the old style gland and packing, failed on the water and I managed to stem the water coming in and get it to a lift in time. I'm single handed though, so monitoring that adjustment is difficult without a helper, so I am upgrading to a Tides Marine dripless on this go with the new driveshaft. That was the original idea of pulling the driveshaft, then was advised that there was too much degradation on the transmission end to get a good mate, so we got a new one. Probably the engine out of alignment and the worn cutlass bearing had something to do with that..
Probably. Good luck.
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Old 04-09-2021, 01:44 PM   #25
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If the boat is still on the hard then I would stop trying to align it until after it has been in the water for a few days. Then see what it is doing. I do a simple alignment before it is launched but then wait a few days and do the real alignment.
I redid the shaft, cutlass, stuffing box etc.... on a Lehman 120 last season. Cant agree more to have it in the water. Your talking such small amounts that having hull flex could be the difference.

Additionally, i was very conscious of the alignment of the work I did DURING the installation of the new cutlass, stuffing box etc......

I don't want to seem like a negative person, but you could be trying to fix any misalignment of the new parts that were installed. (I mean, i was so damn anal about alignment checking at every step. I did one item at a time and rechecked the alignment for each item installation.).

It took longer than it should ( I did it out of fear, lol) since I was totally afraid of the alignment part. (Never did it before)

Once everything was done and aligned right (minor twerk to the rear mount port mount horizontally) I redid the motor mounts last. Easy peasy.

Again, not being negative. The question is, “how the hell is the alignment that far off?” Its not like its a new boat, or new motor etc....
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Old 04-09-2021, 01:58 PM   #26
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There are probably some set screws in the cutless bearing that will need to come out first. Then you can cut it and peel it out. Or you can use some all-thread and press it out and press the new one in.
I had one set screw and it was pretty corroded and the screw hole was degraded. I had to drill out and retap. I could not get a bronze set screw, so i fashioned one out of a monel bolt and staked it.
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Old 04-09-2021, 02:01 PM   #27
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Getting the hull resting in the water first

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Well you do have to move the engine to get it aligned with the shaft. So you will have to do whatever in necessary to do so. Hopefully the boat is in the water and has sat for several days before you tried the alignment. The boat may relax and move when it was launched and off the blocking. If the boat is still on the hard then I would stop trying to align it until after it has been in the water for a few days. Then see what it is doing. I do a simple alignment before it is launched but then wait a few days and do the real alignment.

Absolutely you will not be able to accurately gauge the alignment until the boat has been afloat and settled out for a few days. Not possible with the hull up on the hard.
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