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Old 10-05-2020, 04:22 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomad Willy View Post
syjos wrote;
“The biggest vibration reduction was installing a 200# flywheel.“

Some cars could use that treatment.

syjos how did you get a 200lb flywheel? Off the shelf I assume but if you modified a lighter fly (added to it?) or what? If it’s not off the shelf how’d ya get it?

Could be interesting. Like maybe there was a straight eight Lehman.
I bought the 200# flywheel and bellhousing adapter 20 years ago. It was a Lehman accessory kit available into the late 90's. It is featured in the original Lehman catalog.

I bought the last three kits that were available. Installed one on Sandpiper and sold the other two to clients.

It required the shaft to be shortened and the rear motor mount moved aft. The other option would be to move the engine forward.

It reduced vibration significantly but the idle speed still needs to be 600 to 700 rpm.

I replaced the motor mounts first, which helped reduce vibration at idle a bit. The 200# flywheel was next and the combination of the two was the trick.

The Federal Flexible coupling was installed to mitigate "rumble" while at crusing speed. The rumble was caused be either hull flex or engine movement in a sea. The cause was not pinpointed but the rumble is a lot less with the flex coupling.

The Federal coupling does not protect drivechain from hitting something with the prop.
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Old 10-05-2020, 04:25 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by angus99 View Post
Do these sacrifice themselves, like other drive savers, with heavy impact or are they just to dampen vibration?
Just to dampen drive chain "rumble" from hull flex or engine movement.

Federal Flexible Couplings

https://federalmarinetransmissions.com/contact.html




.
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Old 10-05-2020, 05:27 PM   #23
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And in my opinion they are nothing but trouble. According to Steve D'Antonio, he has never seen a DriveSaver save anything. Plus, they make it very difficult to do engine alignments with confidence that a sufficient level of precision has been reached.

Now, here is why I removed them and installed spacers made by the Spurs folks. Two years ago I nosed into a sandbar. I tried to back off. As the boat began to break free I applied morempower. No big deal, right? Oh, but it was a big deal. DriveSavers have a torque rating. That extra power ripped the bolts right out of the hard plastic thus parting the shaft from the transmission. We had to run 40 miles on one engine to Fort Myers. We pulled into Legacy Harbor Marina in the dark on Christmas Eve. I HATE drivesavers. By the way, I lost the saver on the other side in the sixth stair-step lock in Ottawa.

Ian, I know that you are doing drive-line work. When that DriveSaver failed on Christmas Eve, I later motored 25 more miles on one engine down to GULF marine Ways in Fort Myers Beach. The good folks there pulled my shafts, replaced the cutless baerings, sent the shafts out to check for trueness - they were not and they were straightened, Spurs machined spacers installed, engines realigned. All runs so smoothly compared to before. Don't do it. If you decide to do so, I have a nearly new DriveSaver on the shaft I will sell you for a really cheap price but I will say unequivocably that I wouldn't install them even if I got them brand new for free.
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I have drive savers. I put them on. One of my engines had been removed for fuel tank work and when it went back there was some wobble. I adjusted and got rid of the wobble. I added the shaft savers as insurance. They are soft enough to deal with minor misalignment. I consider them flexible couplings. They would be a good addition to any boat.
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Old 10-05-2020, 05:39 PM   #24
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Thanks, Scott. Still pondering this.

Good to hear your experience but I’m guessing most commercial boats have bigger maintenance budgets than mine. Also, I’m wondering if tranny damage is always instantly apparent?
Actually not, some small businessmen spend way less than many here.

They just don't listen to boating rags or worry worts on the internet
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Old 10-05-2020, 07:43 PM   #25
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The Federal Flexible Coupling:

Replaces shaft coupling - no need to shorten shaft

Handles angular and parallel misalignment

Neoprene absorbs torque and thrust loads

Neoprene inserts are replaceable

Dampens oscillating shaft vibration and rumble
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Old 10-05-2020, 08:03 PM   #26
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New motor mounts? Have you aligned the engines after installation? I would think this needs to be done.
Quote:
Originally Posted by angus99 View Post
I should have mentioned, I have new motor mounts, but there is significant vibration when the two engines are idling and possibly working against one another. It mostly disappears when I engage the synchronizer, so I’m guessing drive savers wouldn’t have much impact on vibration one way or the other. The engines are due for a valve adjustment and possibly injector service, so maybe that will help with vibration.
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Old 10-05-2020, 08:34 PM   #27
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Here are two pictures. One is the fractured DriveSaver I mentioned in an earlier post. The other is with the Spurs spacer in place.Click image for larger version

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Old 10-05-2020, 09:55 PM   #28
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New motor mounts? Have you aligned the engines after installation? I would think this needs to be done.
Yes, the motor mounts were installed three years ago and the engines/shafts have been aligned twice since then; once after I hit a submerged object.
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Old 10-06-2020, 09:19 AM   #29
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If you have them, carry a spare.
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Old 10-06-2020, 09:30 AM   #30
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If you have them, carry a spare.
ok another spare I need . I wonder if I can find a cheap one . with only one engine I'm going to be stuck if it breaks. I guess I could pull it and make a spacer to take it's place.
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Old 10-06-2020, 09:51 AM   #31
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Lots of good thoughts here. Thanks.

A related dilemma is what to do about the shaft-to-transmission couplings. The flanges on the prop side are through-bolted and the bolt on the port side keeps shearing under load—possibly the result of some play in the keyway. I’m strongly considering replacing the flanges with proper split couplings, ideally while the boat’s out of the water.

But I’m not sure what I’ll run into with the black spacers that are between each coupling. Not sure what they are or why they’re there unless it was to replace some previously installed drive savers—or perhaps they’re some kind of vibration dampener? Anybody have these or seen anything like them?
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Old 10-06-2020, 09:56 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by angus99 View Post
Lots of good thoughts here. Thanks.

A related dilemma is what to do about the shaft-to-transmission couplings. The flanges on the prop side are through-bolted and the bolt on the port side keeps shearing under load—possibly the result of some play in the keyway. I’m strongly considering replacing the flanges with proper split couplings, ideally while the boat’s out of the water.

But I’m not sure what I’ll run into with the black spacers that are between each coupling. Not sure what they are or why they’re there unless it was to replace some previously installed drive savers—or perhaps they’re some kind of vibration dampener? Anybody have these or seen anything like them?
my old aluminum boat had something like that it they have plastic or fiber washers on one end of the bolts they isolate the shaft electrically
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Old 10-06-2020, 10:42 AM   #33
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IMO drive savers are mostly for fast boats (10knts +(not trawlers) and they aren’t good for vibration reduction,
For a 15 knot cruiser they could be a good investment. And to install them it’s necessary to cut an inch or so off the prop shaft .... and can’t put it back on.
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Old 10-06-2020, 12:22 PM   #34
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I had a spacer made for one last year when I got rid of the drive saver. The installation basically sucked since there was no way to get the drive saver out to replace it. The PO had so much paint put on the shafts that they will not slide in or out more than about 1/8”. So while I could remove the rear side of the bolts, there was no way to get the forward bolts out so I ended up cutting the bolts. Had a spacer made and after I pressed the old prop shaft coupler off I went with a new split coupler on the shaft. Put in the new spacer and all is good now. The spacer was a bit over $500 so it wasn’t cheap, but cheaper than a new shaft since the current shaft is too short due to the spacer.
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