Diesel not run for 4 years

[WhitePelican]

How long can a diesel sit? It was winterized, but has not been run for a few years. Rust issues in cylinders?

 

[Delta Dog]

If it's in Minnesota too, you are probably ok since diesel is a very thin oil. If the boat is in a salt water environment, then you might have a problem.

 

[WhitePelican]

Thanks, Yes it is in MN. Wondering about long-term issues with rings, seals, etc. I am skeptical of anything that does not get used. Nothing, animal or mechanical, should sit for years.

 

[Larry M]

What engine is it?

 

[WhitePelican]

Volvo Penta, inline 6, do not have model # with me. 1994 boat.

 

[Comodave]

Yes you might have some rusting going on. I would start it and run it for a few hours and the change the oil.

 

[WhitePelican]

Thanks.

 

[Dawdler]

Before starting I would also change the raw water impellers (if so equipped)--the rubber vanes will most likely disintegrate upon start up.

 

[yachtbrokerguy]

Before starting the engine bring the oil pressure up by engaging the starter without fuel going into the engine, After so much elapsed time all of the oil has drained down to the oil pan, you want oil in the lines and in everywhere else that normally gets oil. You may also want to remove at least one injector and look inside the cylinder for rust. You can buy a small remote camera that will fit into your smart phone to do your own boroscope.

 

[WhitePelican]

Good idea, thanks. This is a project houseboat, basically just a hull and engines. Have heard 2 wide-ranging valuations on engines. Anybody else with guesstimates... '94 Volvo 6 cyl, not run in 4 yrs. Doubt it was run much before. Was a liveaboard floater. Will get engine model info when i get home.

 

[WhitePelican]

Borescope is good idea. Would likely spray some solvent in cylinders to free up rings

 

[Larry M]

Borescope is good idea. Would likely spray some solvent in cylinders to free up rings

You mentioned that the engine had been winterized. Do know what was done? The rings shouldn’t be seized. You could pull the injectors and put some lubricate into each cyclinder and bar over the engine. Maybe we’ll hear from Ski (Eric) who has done this before.

 

[Nomad Willy]

SeaFoam is excellent for freeing up rings.

Most diesels have a dished piston crown so it’s very likely anything poured into the cylinders will not cet to the rings unless the engine is cranked.
I’d pour in the SeaFoam, then crank for 2-3 seconds several times. Best w the compression release engaged. The cranking should disperse the SeaFoam all over the cylinder walls. Let it sit for a day or so to release hard varnishes and other similar deposits down to the bottom of the ring grooves.
Then for start-up you could put in alittle 50/50 2 stroke lube oil and diesel. Put back in the injectors and or cylinder heaters. Start up.

 

[WhitePelican]

Thank you very much for all the valuable info. Ive learned a lot in one afternoon. I do not own this boat, but am trying to discern how problematic engines could be. Will not get to run engines, and am worried what steps, or lack of, current owner would take. Thank You again to everyone for their input and help.

 

[Ski in NC]

Bar over crankshaft with a wrench at least two turns. If it turns smooth, unlikely that there is significant corrosion in any of the holes.

After that, I would have no problem trying a normal start.

Much more stuff to check out before buying, but that is another topic.

 

[WhitePelican]

Thanks, also wondering about resale $value of engines...best guesses? Not my intention, but at odds w owners valuation.

Volvo Penta inline 6 cyl.
220 hp - 700 hrs ?
Model AD41P-A

 

[ktdtx]

Mystery Oil ??

 

[kapnd]

Mystery Oil ??

I’ll second Marvels Mystery Oil for the presoak job.
I started a Perkins 6/354 that had sat for seventeen years, just changed the fluids and rubbers, soaked the cylinders with Marvels and barred it over a few revs with injectors out, and it fired up instantly, though not without smoke!
Note that I still do not use mystery oil or any other snake oil concoction in my fuel or oil.

 

[WhitePelican]

WOW !! Seventeen years !!
Guess the engines are worth a gamble. THANKS !!

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

Bar over crankshaft with a wrench at least two turns. If it turns smooth, unlikely that there is significant corrosion in any of the holes.

After that, I would have no problem trying a normal start.

Much more stuff to check out before buying, but that is another topic.

I agree with Ski. There was a 1920 tug behind our moorage and hadn't been started in a long time. Once the above stuff is checked. Crank her up. It will fire over. After starting expect lots and lots of smoke.......

 

[SoWhat]

Bar over crankshaft with a wrench at least two turns. If it turns smooth, unlikely that there is significant corrosion in any of the holes.
After that, I would have no problem trying a normal start.

Agree. If you can bar it the internals are OK. Starter might be a block of rust, relays corroded shut, oil coolers dissolved, etc but they are all in the realm of do it yourself maintenance.

 

[WhitePelican]

Thanks for info,

 

[koliver]

AD41p from 1994? 24 yrs old with low hours?

In 2000 I sold a pair of 20 yr old TMD40s with 4500 hrs. I asked $500 each, or the pair for $7500. I advertised in fisherman trade mags, after about 4 months got a purcahser. He took one engine, didn't haggle over the price, then came back and got the second engine, so I got the full $7500.

You should value yours around the same.

 

[WhitePelican]

Thanks for info. Always more helpful to know a sold price vs an asking price.

 

[boathealer]

AD41p from 1994? 24 yrs old with low hours?

In 2000 I sold a pair of 20 yr old TMD40s with 4500 hrs. I asked $500 each, or the pair for $7500. I advertised in fisherman trade mags, after about 4 months got a purcahser. He took one engine, didn't haggle over the price, then came back and got the second engine, so I got the full $7500.

You should value yours around the same.

Wow! I would have bought them separately for $1000. [grin]

 

[koliver]

Wow! I would have bought them separately for $1000. [grin]

I seem to have trouble with the size of the window in which to compose my posts. Usually I can find the typos and not get caught out, as here, with a missing "0". Sorry for the poor proof-reading.

Mods: If there was an easy Spell check in the reply window that would help, though not with a missed 0.

 

[Lepke]

Many years ago, my family had a business restoring long inactive ships to running condition. Mostly cargo ships with auxiliary diesel generators, but also other smaller, all diesel ships and tugs. The navy did a good job mothballing, but cargo and non navy ships were often just shut down, sealed and left. Some longer than 20 years. Most of the engines were almost no trouble. I can't remember a frozen engine, but diesel was much better then. On really long sitting engines, sometimes we would find a stuck injector. Seals were different then. Mostly rope type except on small engines. After forced fuel and oil circulation and the normal checks, we started on the existing fuel with a catalyst for a hotter burn. Sometimes we would find vessels with almost full fuel and oil tanks. Since the tank vents had been sealed, there no water problems.
The short version is, a mothballed diesel sitting for 4 years should be no problem.

 

[WhitePelican]

Wow, quite the info. Thank you very much for the detailed info.

 

[Nomad Willy]

The SeaFoam makes very distinctive white smoke. LOTS of it.

 

[FF]

"Mystery Oil ??"

"Mystery Oil " is #1 diesel , some coloring and a perfume to change the smell.

ATF , PB Blaster or any similar product will work fine.

If the engine has a bit of rust in the cylinders but turns over , the biggest hassle might be slightly higher lube oil consumption, no big deal.

Oil is cheap.