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Old 06-04-2019, 03:33 PM   #21
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After 5 years I might have cranked the engine with the stop switch on so it would not start until it had cranked a bit to get the oil distributed but that may be 20/20 hindsight.
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Old 06-04-2019, 03:38 PM   #22
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I believe "priming" is simply pushing the start button with the stop button pushed in for 20 sec or so. After 5 years all oil has probably drained out.

Once you get the engine out, drop the oil pan and inspect. If it's just the mains you can have a local diesel mechanic replace them. Parts are readily available and they are simple engines to work on. If you don't need pistons, rods, valves, etc then you might save a few thousand.

There are typically 6 bolts holding transmission to bell housing. I suppose you could cut the heads off. Soak then in PBBlaster or Kroil. Weld a nut onto the stubs. The heat should loosen them right up.
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Old 06-04-2019, 04:00 PM   #23
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Humph…

Couldn't get the plate off to expose the flywheel. Apparently somewhere along the line the 4 bolts under the discharge for the heat exchanger rusted so badly they are no longer a 9/16. More like a rusted round head. Came home for more tools including an angle grinder. What fun.

Yeah, sbman. That's what I thought too. I've done a lot of engines in my life and NEVER heard of priming an oil pump. WTH?
I guess that all depends on how long the pump and engine have been laid up.
I had an old Grand Marque that would just sit there for about a year. Initial start up, some clanking.... but it would disappear in less than a minute. Car ran fine for at least another 30K before I swapped it for a newer Grand Marque.
You might, consider bumping it a few times without starting.... or.... a quick start, shut down do again.
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Old 06-04-2019, 04:05 PM   #24
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Unfortunately, no, Xsbank. The boat has been finished. We splashed a couple of weeks ago.
HA!! The pic loaded upside-down. WTH!!
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Old 06-04-2019, 04:10 PM   #25
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Unfortunately, no, Xsbank. The boat has been finished. We splashed a couple of weeks ago.
HA!! The pic loaded upside-down. WTH!!
Hmmmm, it must be upside down or you have ballasting problem?

Looks nice. Hope you are enjoying it.
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Old 06-04-2019, 04:13 PM   #26
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Just checking to see if these jpgs load upsidedown….Click image for larger version

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Old 06-04-2019, 04:53 PM   #27
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Some engines do lose prime, and fail to reprime on start. Last thing you want to do is grind away with the starter. Latest was a QSB Cummins that just sat six mo.

I just can't remember where the oil pump is on a FL 120. Some engines have it dipped below sump level, those will prime right away.

We just shoot some oil in the gallery or into an oil line from pump.

OP- was oil level ok?

Can't imagine engine making it 15min at 1800rpm with zero oil pressure, if it did, that thing tried its darndest to live!!
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Old 06-05-2019, 12:00 AM   #28
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Boatmon,

If your pictures are TALL instead of WIDE, they will load SIDEWAYS.

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I've learned to take my boat pics in landscape, or edit/crop them for TF. Then they come out right!

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If they come from an APPLE device they might end up UPSIDE DOWN. Most of the time I can get these to work if I give them a minor edit, then save, and then upload...

You can PREVIEW what they will look like...

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...this will show an example of what your final post will look like, with all the links, smilies, and photos you've added... Its helpful to troubleshoot. After viewing the preview portion of your post, scroll down to get at the one you can edit... note that editing does not change the preview window in real time, you have to click Preview Post again to see what your new update looks like....
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Old 06-05-2019, 04:23 PM   #29
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Okay. I backed off the plate covering the flywheel, not enough to have unlimited access due to the stuffing box. Only had about 2" of shaft that I could slide back. No pesky spring fragments anywhere that I could see....

We're pulling the engine early next week.

On the picture issue, I flipped a couple before downloading them and they are still viewed upside down. I remember having this issue when I tried to download before in reference to the progress in Wabi Sabi's rebuild. I have an Android phone and remember that something hidden deep inside created confusion, that the two just didn't get along.

In fact, as I attempt to upload a new profile pic and info, all attempts fail on that too!
I give up.....
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Old 06-05-2019, 05:19 PM   #30
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With my photos it seems to be a crap shoot if they load correctly or not so I gave up worrying about it. Sometimes no matter what I did they would load wrong.
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Old 06-05-2019, 07:40 PM   #31
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Okay. I backed off the plate covering the flywheel, not enough to have unlimited access due to the stuffing box. Only had about 2" of shaft that I could slide back. No pesky spring fragments anywhere that I could see....

We're pulling the engine early next week.
Having owned a boat like yours with exact same engine, where the hour meter broke at about 3000 hrs, just after I bought her, yet was still humming beautifully when I sold her 16 years later, that engine of yours is theoretically barely run in for a Lehman 120hp. I agree with all the folk who recommended doing as little as possible to get that engine reconditioned and stick with the 120.

By the way, ours was a sedan like you have - or converted her to. I think that is now the best layout for sheer indoor/outdoor living, without the aft cabin so many were built with. Congrats on a great and clearly loving restoration/conversion. But if possible, hang onto that engine and just fix'erup..!

PS. There's no such thing as a 'dead' Lehman 120. Just one that's not running perfectly right now...ok?
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Old 06-06-2019, 06:18 AM   #32
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This gentleman swapped out a six cylinder Perkins for a four cylinder. Not sure if this helps, but watching him restoring his old Monk is pretty enjoyable.

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Old 06-06-2019, 07:39 AM   #33
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PS. There's no such thing as a 'dead' Lehman 120. Just one that's not running perfectly right now...ok?
And some that need surgery. LOL

Hey me bruddah, sorry to hear about this. But Wabi will be up and running soon enough.
I know you remember what boat means.....
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Old 06-06-2019, 08:40 AM   #34
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I would be willing to bet it is your dampner plate. Sounds just like a rod letting go or a dropped valve. If you have rust in bell housing even more proof.

The pieces fall between the block and flywheel.

Try turning crank backward, to see if it falls free.

Dampner plate is only good for 2500 hrs. Never heard of a Lehman failing catastrophically. Great engine.

Changed mine at 5000 hours, noise reduction was dramatic. Plate was completely shattered.
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Old 06-06-2019, 03:12 PM   #35
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Choices, I tried up, down, left, right and with all my 253# on the crank bolt and nothing budges. Yeah, I've been told that the dampener springs make just like a frozen crank.

More will be revealed.

Hey Brudda Jay, upnort now?
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Old 06-06-2019, 03:29 PM   #36
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With my photos it seems to be a crap shoot if they load correctly or not so I gave up worrying about it. Sometimes no matter what I did they would load wrong.
Como,
Are you guys taking pics w i-pads ect?
Been my experience that you must take the pic w the pad (or ?) oriented correctly. Need to take some test pics and take notes how the pad/camera was oriented. Then if you always hold the pad that same way all the pics on TF will be right side up. Or should I say right end up. The saying right side up is not right. Confusing anyway .... You don’t want the side up you want the top or bottom up. But there’s no word for that that includes both .. ???
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Old 06-06-2019, 03:36 PM   #37
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Yeah, Peter B, mine was just like yours, except when I started to rebuild her, there was sooooo much water sandwiched between her glass sheathing you coulda wrung it out like a wet towel. All had to go. We wanted more salon, so I extended 18" and widened to full gunnel. All the 2 of us need as a floating... I'll try to add a pic, but it may be upside down....?
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Old 06-07-2019, 11:13 AM   #38
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Hey Brudda Jay, upnort now?

Yes.
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Old 06-07-2019, 01:14 PM   #39
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I have a link I'd like you to read but I'm at my son's home some distance to mine and using my tablet so I'll see if I can remember other threads I had link it to.

The short answer is bigger engine with higher horsepower might very well use less fuel. Think of the RPM's to get up to a given speed, let's say 7 knots, and the larger engine will use less RPM than the smaller engine and probably last longer as the smaller engine will be more stressed (heat) than the larger engine.

My boat is in for refit and repower and is being prepped as I type this to take the new engine and leg as it is a stern drive jobbie. I had to learn a wee bit as I made the switch. First I tried to match HP to HP with Volvo, but Volvo didn't want to play that game. You see my old engine was a 270 HP at the engine but really a 240 measured at the prop, which they do now compared to the days when Jesus was in diapers. The new Volvo engine I was interest in was a V6 but given the weight of my boat it would be under more stress and Volvo didn't want to warranty it under those circumstances.

So I got a larger engine, much larger (semidisplacement hull with shallow v bottom) that is 350 HP at the prop. It is a larger block V8 than my old engine. Part of my reasoning was that at a given speed, again lets say 7 knots, the rpm will be less and thus use less fuel, not more as you might guess because the hp is higher. The RPM's will be significantly lower, heat stress is significantly lower thus the engine will last longer if I don't use it a lot at WOT.

I don't know your circumstance but if you are older you may not care if the engine doesn't last significantly longer. My son knows he's inheriting my boat and I want to save him the task of repowering, really the expense of a rebuild at the very least. The stress on engines is much more significant moving a vessel through water than any land based vehicle engine experiences. Evening doing 75 mph on the interstate is less demanding; if you look at your car's rpm guage when travelling at that speed you'll observe that is only at about the 1/3rd mark of WOT.

When I talk to friends about the stresses of a marine engine I liken it to a very large container truck carrying potting soil (heavy) permantly driving up a very steep hill, that's your boat engine at work.
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Old 06-07-2019, 01:24 PM   #40
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Only if you drive that way....I use well less than half the hp of my engine...sometimes down maybe a third.

So if I got an 80hp replacement I would still be in the operating recommended RPM for it and probably never wear it out either.

More people are worried that I am in danger of glazing my cylinders than anything.
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