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Old 12-01-2018, 05:45 PM   #21
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Think about how you will service the tanks in the future or if something goes wrong? Valves to isolate, valves to drain water and crud and valves for the sight tubes. I would also add clean-outs, so you can look in there easily in the future. Its easy during installation and not so easy later. Also, my preference is a gravity feed vs. a dip-tube on the top. Ball valves, not gate valves and MAKE SURE the ball valves you choose are compatible with the threads on the fittings on the tank, avoid like the plague tapered and straight thread mixes. Last but not least, go to a hose shop and have proper fuel lines made up, no press-fit-hose-clamp crap.
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Old 12-02-2018, 07:08 AM   #22
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For a cruiser "proper" may have different concepts.

Some end makers like Aeroquip make end fittings for both fuel and hyd that are owner reusaible.

A good set of box wrenches , and a vice help , but the hose can be replaced when desired.

Folks going to a hyd. shop might want to ask for swivel fittings on BOTH ends to male R&R a snap.
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Old 12-02-2018, 09:38 AM   #23
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I'm still in the process of sorting out all of the systems on out 'new to us' 1988 CHB Sundeck. It has four 110 gal fuel tanks, two on each side (two aluminum replacements, two orig iron). Each has a fill cap on the side decks, and as I was told, all four tanks are connected - which must be correct as the sight tubes are all equal - took several hours for them to level back up after I added 75 gallons each to two tanks on the port side. I have discovered a valve on the cross line (from port to starboard tanks), and will check next to see if I can hopefully find valves between each side tank. Ah, the joys of discovery on an older boat - but thankfully this boat is pretty original ie not a lot of DIY work has been done on the boat.
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Old 12-03-2018, 02:27 PM   #24
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I've read connections on the bottom of a fuel tank are forbidden, at least for gasoline, not sure about diesel. I wanted to do the same with my gas engine but that's a no go. Seems to me the only option is separate feeds with a selector valve, or a transfer pump.
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Old 12-03-2018, 02:36 PM   #25
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Forgot to mention - ours are diesel engines (Lehman 135's). Don't think there is any problem with low connections with diesel fuel tanks. And I suspect I'll get the opportunity to change out those other two iron tanks some day - but for now they appear solid with no leaks and no rust on top
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Old 12-03-2018, 09:47 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimfrens View Post
I've read connections on the bottom of a fuel tank are forbidden, at least for gasoline, not sure about diesel. I wanted to do the same with my gas engine but that's a no go. Seems to me the only option is separate feeds with a selector valve, or a transfer pump.



That may be where I got the "no low connections" stuff from, my days of working on gasoline inboards.
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Old 12-03-2018, 10:26 PM   #27
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Don’t forget that you’ll also need a vent line for each tank.
You can tee into one common vent line at a high point but they will all need to breathe individually.
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Old 12-04-2018, 03:04 PM   #28
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Don’t forget that you’ll also need a vent line for each tank.
You can tee into one common vent line at a high point but they will all need to breathe individually.
Definitely. Thanks
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Old 12-04-2018, 03:06 PM   #29
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Forgot to mention - ours are diesel engines (Lehman 135's). Don't think there is any problem with low connections with diesel fuel tanks. And I suspect I'll get the opportunity to change out those other two iron tanks some day - but for now they appear solid with no leaks and no rust on top
Well the problem for me might be trying to install a low connection on a polyethylene tank.
I'll probably go the 2 seperate top feed with a T and 2 shutoff valves for now method.
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