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Old 07-26-2020, 10:17 PM   #41
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CAT 3306 overheating

Well Gents, I am happy to report that we are getting closer to complete recovery.
The water pump was put back together. I had the pins and the bolt purchased locally for around $10. The gasket kit was $25. The pins had to be hammered in, since the gear side hole is different. The bolt did not drive in first, because the thread was deformed slightly. After getting a thread cleaning tool, all was fine. The pump was together and looked very solid.
Mounting the pump back was tricky. The mounting bolts can be driven in only in a certain sequence, due to limited space and other parts of the engine. It was also necessary to turn the flywheel, so the the teeth of the pump gear could connect. It was a bit of a hit and miss, but finally it went in. It cannot be done by hand. We needed a plastic hammer to help the pump to slide into place.
I also replaced the thermostat again. This one I have tested myself and I knew it was working. I wanted to eliminate every trouble points, before the engine start.
I filled the coolant system with Rydlyme+water mix about 10/90%. My goal is to clean out any rust in the pipes, if there is some. I will change it to normal coolant/distilled mix next weekend. It takes 11 gallons of mix total.

We started the engine and it cranked up right away. I let it run on idle 700 rpm for 10-15 minutes. It heated up to 145-150F and stayed there. There was decent sea water flow outside. I moved the rpm up to 1200 and ran it for 5-6 minutes. No change. I pushed to 1500 rpm and the temp stood the same. I let it run like this for 10 minutes. No change. Stayed at below 150F. This is about 20-30 degrees lower temp, comparing to what I had for 2 years I have owned the boat.
I’ve measured the coolant elbow temp on the top of the engine in the ER, and it showed 170-176F. The alarm comes on at 195. The two elbows above the thermostat showed about 10-15F difference only. Prior this difference was over 40-50 degrees. It looked very good. I feel much better now and I believe we have located the overheating issue. It was the water pump, which was not connecting properly and spinning at higher rpm. It could only do proper cooling at idle speeds.

I have not taken out the boat yet. I am on a buoy and I need to pump out first. Unfortunately, I have an oil pipe, which is leaking oil. The one, which comes out of the oil cooler and goes down to the oil pump on the block. It needs a new gasket. Hopefully I’ll be able to get it and install it soon. My plan is to go out for trip next weekend. That will be the final test.
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Old 07-26-2020, 10:44 PM   #42
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No worries, the head can be replaced. $$$ hope it's not needed. It's best to let engine idle to cool it off, as opposed to shutting it down at overheat temps, at least in this case.
If it overheats in neutral, it will overheat faster under load.
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Old 07-26-2020, 11:40 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by Swfla View Post
No worries, the head can be replaced. $$$ hope it's not needed. It's best to let engine idle to cool it off, as opposed to shutting it down at overheat temps, at least in this case.

If it overheats in neutral, it will overheat faster under load.


I just posted the fix story. It does not overheat anymore.
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Old 08-10-2020, 06:02 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by Lepke View Post
Often the need to flush the coolant side gets overlooked. Rydlyme also dissolves rust. It's a quick, easy operation to try before throwing
Thanks again for the suggestion. It worked. Although, the overheating problem was the pump, now the cooling is much better. It does not go higher than 150F at cruising speed. I could never go this low before.
I let the Rydlyme mix in the cooling system for a week and I replaced it yesterday. The test run was very satisfactory.
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Old 08-10-2020, 07:35 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by LeoKa View Post
Thanks again for the suggestion. It worked. Although, the overheating problem was the pump, now the cooling is much better. It does not go higher than 150F at cruising speed. I could never go this low before.
I let the Rydlyme mix in the cooling system for a week and I replaced it yesterday. The test run was very satisfactory.
A week seems long. What does your thermostat look like after that treatment? Is it still functioning OK and what temperature is marked on it?
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Old 08-10-2020, 10:42 PM   #46
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A week seems long. What does your thermostat look like after that treatment? Is it still functioning OK and what temperature is marked on it?


It was a very diluted mix. About 10/90 %

The thermostat is brand new and it worked fine. It kept the temp at 150F steadily, even at cruising speed. I think it opens at 145F and fully opened at 195F.
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Old 08-11-2020, 11:46 AM   #47
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Originally Posted by waltini View Post
Hi LeoKa



I have an old 3306/D333c.



In the photo you can see where the plywood is. If you zoom in you can see a nut at the bottom of the plywood, partially covered. That is the drain.


Where do you get your belts and how do you identify them?
I have 2 pairs. One pair goes to the alternator. The other pair goes to the hydraulic pump.
I could not find the part numbers in my manual.
I want to replace all belts.
Thanks.
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