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Old 03-18-2020, 02:49 PM   #41
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Those mpg numbers are impressive and they say my engines could use some better tuning and maybe different props. With stock carb tuning and timing, I see about 0.55 nmpg at 17 - 18 kts and as best I can estimate, somewhere in the 1.2 - 1.4 ballpark at 6.5 - 7 kts (don't have flow meters, so low speed estimate is less accurate). And my boat is a little lighter than the 410 (21,600 dry for mine, so I figure around 25,500 - 26,000 loaded). Deadrise on mine is 10*, I think the 410 is pretty similar. Your 17 kts at 2600 is pretty good too. Makes me think your hull isn't really all that draggy and you had pretty good props under there. I'm around 3200 rpm to do 17 kts.
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Old 03-18-2020, 03:18 PM   #42
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Old 03-21-2020, 02:23 PM   #43
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Chris-Craft specific items.

Congratulations on buying the 410 Commander. As a new owner of a Chris-Craft of that vintage there are a few things you should know:
1) 12VDC wiring - Chris-Craft standard was BLACK is positive, WHITE is negative.
2) Fasteners - brass, bronze and chrome plated screws will be Reed & Prince, they look like Phillips but they are not and the heads will strip easily if you try to use a Phillips screwdriver. Stainless steel screws will be Phillips however.
3) Plumbing - If your plumbing is translucent plastic with black plastic fittins it is 3/8". The exact description escapes me. The tubing and equivalent brass fittings are available at big box home improvement store and inexpensive. On my own boat I was thinking of changing to PEX until I figured out repairing the existing was easy.
4) Engines - The Chris-Craft Marine Power 454s are great engines and have combination riser-manifolds (single casting). When closed cooled the entire exhaust system is included, with the exception of the water injection point casting that bolts at the end of the riser portion. If raw water cooled, be very careful during winterization as these manifolds have been out of production for years and the universal replacements are not a great fit for cooling and exhaust plumbing.

In terms of fuel tanks, if replacement is required it would be best to replace with aluminum tanks in the same size and configuration.

The 410 with 454s and working trim tabs should always be able to get up on plane unless heavily overloaded. Ideal WOT is 4200rpm. If it doesn't plane, there is a problem.
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Old 03-21-2020, 02:51 PM   #44
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Some more about Reed & Prince screws. The bronze ones WILL strip very easily if you use a Phillips screwdriver. Jamestown Distributors has drivers for R&P screws, also know as Freerson. I bought a bunch of different size drivers and marked them with blue tape so I could easily tell which type of driver I was using. We had a Trojan that had bronze R&P or Freerson bronze screws.
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Old 03-21-2020, 03:09 PM   #45
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I never knew that about the bronze screws needing a special screwdriver. I ruined a bunch of them trying to lift my toe rails on an old 32 foot Connie. (Too soon old and too late smart)

Certain people in the automotive industry referred to the Quadrajet as "Quadrajunk", I think they are being unkind. I had 2 on my 327's in the Connie, they ran great.

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Old 03-21-2020, 03:19 PM   #46
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They may make bronze screws in Phillips too. I donít know but I found out quickly that a Phillips screwdriver will strip a R&P screw immediately. We had a Trojan F32 that had all of the interior woodwork put together with R&P or Freerson bronze screws. At first I couldnít figure out how to get them out without stripping the screws. Got on the Trojan forum and found out about the special screws. Then I never stripped another one.
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Old 03-21-2020, 03:38 PM   #47
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I had to laugh when I read the quoted below, that's what I thought as well:

Bottom line - it's a project boat, and I fully understand that. However, the price is right, and cheap enough that I can afford to put a significant amount of $$ into the bottom, engines, AC, and other random stuff (possibly replacing holding tank, water tanks, or fuel tanks? Bilge pumps, heads?)

So my experience, and mind you my boat was pretty much a total refit, new engine and leg, new fuel tanks, water tanks, new composting toilet (no holding tank), new electronics, new hydraulic steering versus old cable, new freezer while still keeping the 2 year old fridge that came with the boat, new force 10 galley, new decking (synthetic) inside and out, new swim platform with new used Seawise davits, new 9.5 RIB with new Merc 9.9, with new anchors - primary and secondary, new cushions, new drawers and a small pantry added, some new fold down boards - one in the galley to increase prep space, one in the saloon for portable tv, or whatever. I also added new windshield wipers, took out the back wooden railing and added a new stainless railing, and a new exturn (external) bow thruster and probably adding a Dockstar Stern thruster. The hull will be repainted and new bottom paint.

So what starts out innocently enough as I'm just going to do this and that turns into a massive project. I moved beyound a minor fix up to a major fix up as I didn't want to be nickled and dimed to death, translate that into boat dollars, over the years as this then that had to be fixed or replaced.

I have spent a lot of money but in essence I have a new boat with a layout I really like. I like the ambiance of an older boat. My refitter joked when he saw my new LED interior lights that they were more a modern style and I said, exactly.

If you have found the bones of a boat you love, then doing a major internal body transplant will pay off, not in terms of investment, but in terms of livability, reliability, fun factor of new electronics and safety, you will be rewarded.

Just turn $$ into $$$$$$ and you will be just fine.
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Old 03-21-2020, 04:17 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsn48 View Post
If you have found the bones of a boat you love, then doing a major internal body transplant will pay off, not in terms of investment, but in terms of livability, reliability, fun factor of new electronics and safety, you will be rewarded.

Just turn $$ into $$$$$$ and you will be just fine.

Even then, sometimes the money is a good investment. Yeah, you may never get it back in resale, but if you plan to keep the thing long enough, that's ok. And if you can't find a boat that's exactly what you want out of the box, finding a hull you like and doing a refit very well might make sense in terms of money spent vs getting the boat you want.
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Old 03-21-2020, 05:00 PM   #49
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I plan to give my boat to my son when I can no longer safely use it. I know if he had to repower and do some other major fixes, he wouldn't be able to afford it with a new high mortgage for a home in Victoria. So I have outfitted it so that it can go roughly twenty years without something having to be replaced.
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Old 06-15-2020, 11:54 PM   #50
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By the way, for the guy who thought me saying I spent $50,000 on repower doesn't understand everything that has to get done. Everything has to be stripped out, both engine, leg and in my case gas tanks. Then the hull cleaned up and epoxy painted about 40 % up both sides. New gas tanks put in... $$$. Then the old hole for the leg had to be reglassed.... $$$$. Then the engine purchased....$$$$$$$$, and the Bravo 2 leg purchased...$$$. Then the engine has to be installed..$$$$ and the leg installed...$$$$. Then a new stainless steel prop purchased....$$. Then everything has to be set up and rewired...$$$$. And labour for everything.... $$$$$$$$$. I would have been happy if it had just been $50,000.
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