Power

[Simi 60]

Originally Posted by rsn48

In my world, 50 amps is a lot.

Massive in our parts as well.
We only have a single 15amp to run everything on shore power.

[tiltrider1]

Originally Posted by Spike

I have a 1986 46' Connie which should be the same set-up. On ours we have 2 50 amp inlets on either side. One is 50A/240V and the other is 50A/120V. I have found very few marinas that have the 50A/125V outlet in a power pedestal. On our panel the Power selector switch has SP 1 (240V) and SP 2 (120V). Position 1 had SP 1 & SP 2 so I assume you could use 2 cords if your marina power had the 120V option available.

That being said, I have never used the 120V inlet and have no problem running everything on the boat. If you are using the resistance heaters along with other appliances maybe that could be a high draw. I would think that if you are tripping the main breaker you have another issue assuming you are getting the proper voltage and amps from the pedestal all the way to the main panel.

I have attached a picture of our panel, yours should be similar. (Sorry, just found that a HEIC file is not supported, anyone have a fix for this?)

Hope this helps.

I have seen boats that had two 30a receptacles on one side, a 50a 125v receptacle on the other side and a 50a 125-250v receptacle on the stern. It took me a whole day to figure out how it was wired and how all the switches had to be thrown to make everything work. In the end we removed the two 30a receptacles, replaced the 50a 125v with a 50a 125-250v receptacle and wired both receptacles to a Shore/Generator switch that was properly marked for Bow and Stern. We then supplied the boat with 30a to 50a splitter making it less complex.

Back in the 1980's we used to see everything from 15a, 20a, 30a and 50a 125v. Now things are more uniform with 30a 125v and 50a 125-250v.

[caltexflanc]

You can get adapters that hook a 50 amp 125v connecter to a 30 amp shore pedestal. I'm still not sure I understand how you use both and divide up the loads between them on the Chris Crafts described and pictured in this thread. I understand why they gave you the option back in the day.

[Spinner]

I am curious about the statement to the effect that having a crossover between two individual power inlets being scary .

I have two separate 30 amp power inlets. I typically only use inlet A because it’s the smart plug inlet.

I use the crossover switch when I want to run the washing machine (on my “B” panel) off of my normal “A” inlet. I am pretty careful and watch the gauges to avoid overloading anything. Is there some other risk that I am not aware of?

Thanks!!

[tiltrider1]

Sue, you have nothing to worry about. Your boat has been inspected by a qualified marine electrical engineer. He would not have allowed your boat to leave the dock if it was wired stupid.

Also, I believe you are miss interpreting what was meant by cross over current.

[Spinner]

Thanks Dave. The switch that combines both AC panels is labeled, as I recall, a crossover. If that isn’t what the previous post was referring to, did it refer to an inadvertent connection between the two AC panels where both are energized even if not intended? I guess that would be scary! I don’t know that the wiring on my boat is more reliable that any other boat wiring, but thanks for the vote of confidence!

[tiltrider1]

It was inferred that both receptacles were wired together with no switch. Meaning that if you plugged into one it made the other live. The safety issue is that the unused receptacle was live. The other issue is if some one accidentally plugged in a second wire there would suddenly be 240v instead of 120v. While neither of these are likely to ever occur, if either did occur the result could be anything from nothing to expensive to deadly.

[Mischief Managed]

BAsed on the year and size of the OP's boat, I bet it has 2 125V 50 amp inlets and a switch that lets you combine loads on th AC breaker panel so that every breaker in energized by just one of the 125V 50amp inlets. This allows anything to be run on AC, but you will have to manage loads becaase you only have half the power the boat can handle.



One fix is to get a Y splitter that has a 125V/250V 50A male connector on the single end and a pair of 125A 50A female connectors on the double ends, and get a standard 125V/250V shore power cord (you can modify one of your 125V 50A cords by changing the plugs on both ends to convert them to standard 125/250V cords) Move the AC panel switch from one input to two inputs, then connect the double ends to the boat's two 125V inlets then use a standard 125V/250V 50A cord between the Y and the 250V 50A power outlet on the dock. The advantage here is that you double your power, but still have just one cord.



Another fix is to get a Y splitter that has a 125V/250V 50A male connector on the single end and a pair of 125A 50A female connectors on the double ends and use your pair of 125V 50A cords with it to power the boat. Move the AC panel switch from one input to two inputs, then connect the two 125V 50A cords to the boat's two 125V inlets. Connect the male end of the Y adapter to the 250V 50A power outlet on the dock.and the two female ends to your two cords. In this configuration, you have doubled your power, but you have to use two, big, heavy cords.

[Spike]

Actually what the OP has is one 125V/50A and one 240V/50A inlet on each side of the boat by the entry door. Sorry if it wasn't clear in my earlier post. I've changed both 240V inlets to the smart plug and have never used the 125V inlet. The one cord powers everything on the panel with no problem. The only time I've had to "load manage" is in the rare times there was only a 30A plug on the dock pedestal and I had to use an adapter.

[jetmech2003]

Originally Posted by Mgm0304

I have a 1988 50 ft Chris craft constellation. We just bought in and we were told we only needed to use 1 50 amp, not 2 for power. The powers trips every once in awhile so I am wondering if we should use both 50 amps. We are live aboard so we need power. Does anyon have any insight?

How old are the breakers? If they are original then they are over 30 years old. If all the wiring is corrosion free and the grounds are good and you know it's not an overload problem (Do your math) then the breaker may not be up to snuff so to speak. They can become weak also with age.

[grahamdouglass]

You might have to practice load management.

For instance if the combined amperage of your appliances is more then your breaker then it will trip. A boat is not a house.

Check out Pacific Yacht Systems. He has a LOT of videos explaining all sorts of electrical things.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCau...pGsEwZx6bHxHpQ

[jskoda]

I too have the exact same 1988 Chris Craft 500. I ran into a issue with it tripping the pedestal breaker, but traced it back to a faulty 50 amp breaker on the pedestal in the marina as faulty. It was tripping at 30 amps. Look at your amp meters on your ac panel. They typically will be less than 30 amps on the first 2 meter and less than 10 on the 3rd panel. If you do run the dryer, hair dryer and all 5 AC units you will need the additional 125v 50amp hook up, but the only things of any consequence are the hot water heater and refrigerator. Ever other power guzzler are on the 1st 2 panels. I hope this helps. Jeff

[Greggnvt]

I have a 1988 48' Chris (Uniflite hull) that has two 30 amp-120V inlets. I run a 50 amp 240V cord from the pedestal and then have a 50 amp-240 to 30 amp 120V splitter that plugs into the 30 amp inlets. Lived aboard, W/D, Microwave, hair dryer and sometimes ran both a 16K and 10K AC units - never tripped a breaker, plugs are good/no heat damage.

I'm not at my boat but I believe one 30 amp was for some, if not all (3 total) AC units and the other 30 amp was for, well, everything else. I always ran the selector switch in the "Both" position.

I see your location is Baltimore - are you running several additional heater units?