Are you using a Bridle with your anchoring setup?

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Chain hook to bollards with two line snubber/bridle. Not through anchor hawse. See photo.

How do you connect the snubber? With a boat hook? Pull it back up through the hawsepipe during retrieval and stow it in that fashion?
 
How do you connect the snubber? With a boat hook? Pull it back up through the hawsepipe during retrieval and stow it in that fashion?

Yes, we hang one line down and grab it under the chain with a boat hook. Took a minute to learn the technique but works like a charm even from our pretty high foredeck.

And, to disengage, just take the lazy loop out of the chain with the windlass and the hook will shake loose when you try.
 
Hippocampus wrote;
"Wish I took pictures. Have seen the front of boats ripped off by their ground tackle gear. Sprit, roller, the whole shebang. Have seen cleats ripped out as well."


This is my foredeck. The capstan is mounted atop a large 7/8" thick plate of flooring .. Douglass Fir ply.
The weak link is the bolts and cleats fastening the capstan and all the cleats to the for-deck. That (largest) ctr. cleat w larger backing plates under would be very hard to pull out. The whole fore-deck would need to come up. Not say'in it couldn't happen but that would be very extreme. The center cleat is the anchor cleat.
Secure nuff-fo-me.
 

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Done right Eric. But have seen just washers securing the cleats and windlass on a cored deck with the core left in. Also seen the stainless assembly for the bow roller(s) poorly secured. The core is compressed and released so over time is crushed. The fittings get loose and load at an angle. Bolts and washers crush more core. Next time a wave train sets up in the anchorage the whole thing rips out.
 
There is lots of value in using a bridle on the hook. Some obvious. One of the big ones for my wife and I is the reduction in noise being transmitted from the chain rumble if the rode swings over rocks. The draw back is it is more difficult to hear any dragging of the anchor if that occurs. But, all in all, I always use a bridle on the hook.
 
"Question:


What's the best knot to use for tying the bridle or just a snubber line to a rope rode? Only one I know is the rolling hitch."


Besides the rolling hitch and the prussik hitch, the Icicle hitch is a great knot, and not that hard to tie and easy to untie. The following is from a Practical Sailor article on securing a snubber rope to a chain rode:

Icicle Hitch

The strongest of the rope-end hitches tested, the icicle hitch never slipped and weakened the rope less than the others. However, it is very tricky to tie with one hand. It is not difficult to release.
Bottom line: This is a secure knot. We recommend the icicle hitch for those who want to keep their knot-tying skills sharp and don’t mind making extra effort for security.
https://www.practical-sailor.com/safety-seamanship/hitches-to-grip-anchor-chain
 
Unless there's a surge or in the open ocean, nothing.

If you are going to anchor for a couple of hours ie lunch and going to remain onboard, I agree with Lepke.
 
There was some discussion a couple months ago in this tread about dissimilar metals corrosion between stainless swivels, and galvanized anchors and chain. I just replaced the anchor, and the chain on the new boat I bought, and there was definite corrosion at this point. I with I had taken a picture of it before I took it apart and got rid of the chain. The swivel was fine, but the anchor was rusted, and the chain was very rusted. It was obvious as only the first few links of the chain were super rusty. It was creating a rust stain mess on the deck below it. The chain is no problem since you can always just cut a few links off. On my new setup I just used a galvanized shackle. Even though the stainless swivel is perfect, and a pretty sweet piece of gear, I don't want to risk it rusting out the eye of the anchor prematurely. It is a crumby place for it to rust even superficially since it drips on the bow of the boat and makes a rust stain. It was one of the reasons I decided to get rid of the existing 50kg Bruce anchor that came with the boat. The other reason being that I am not a fan of Bruce anchors from bad experiences with way smaller versions on previous boats.
 

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I have a Mantus ss swivel between my galvanized anchor and anchor chain. No sign of any rust.
 
Unless there's a surge or in the open ocean, nothing.

+1 Nothing, but if I have a guest sleeping in the forward V berth I'll sling out a snubber to stop the chain clanking periodically, as it tends to make for wakeful nights and grumpy guests!
~A
 
I was the one who questioned the potential corrosion between galvanized and SS anchor components because I also noticed it on some nearby boats. I recently bought a SS anchor and swivel and decided I might as well buy SS chain too. I don't use a lot of chain so it was a no-brainer for me. Depends on how much you anchor I guess.
 
I use a victory hook for our everyday snubber
Cheap and the added bonus is it self releases as chain is retrieved and that snubber is short enough that it doesn't touch the water
No need to have anyone up front.

On my storm snubber (4x longer) I use a soft shackle

Of the two I actually prefer the victory hook as it cups and supports the whole link
Soft shackle and most other hooks point load the link.


That hook has seen 80+ knots on our vessel
The anchor chain did deform during that event as we had a short polypropylene snubber vs nylon that we now use.
getthumb_latest.php


https://www.samallen.com.au/index_inner.php?page=100003&searchType=&search=&itemID=14354&category=2

Where one can buy that one for 3/8 chain in NORTH AMERICA? I just seen it in Greece, but couldn't carry on back just with limited hand baggage.
 

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