Tripping anchor windlass breaker.

[Steve DAntonio]

Remember that Starboard isn’t structural. Just make sure the load isn’t pulling on the Starboard as it will deform.

Agree, UHMW, Starboard, should not be used for structural applications, backing blocks, etc. it is not reinforced, it lacks the necessary rigidity to support loads. GPO3 or G10 is far better.

 

[jclays]

Agree, UHMW, Starboard, should not be used for structural applications, backing blocks, etc. it is not reinforced, it lacks the necessary rigidity to support loads. GPO3 or G10 is far better.

See post #59

 

[Steve DAntonio]

See post #59

Noted.

And I repeat, UHMW, Starboard, should not be used for structural applications, backing blocks, etc. it is not reinforced, it lacks the necessary rigidity to support loads. GPO3 or G10 is far better.
_______________

I forgot to mention, it's virtually impossible to get sealant to adhere to it.

 

[jclays]

its not being used for structural application. It is being thur bolted onto the foredeck to raise the foredeck even with the pulpit.

 

[C lectric]

Maybe Mr D'Antonios point is not understood.

Polyethylenes of any type, Starboard included, will compress [cold flow]over time losing the seal and maybe the shape. As that happens the windlass may start to be able to move about breaking any seal and working the bolts in the deck.

Further polyethylenes of any type are very difficult to seal to. Typical caulks will NOT adhere long term.. Sure they will stick for a while but they will lose that grip.

THe only sealer I have found to actually hold is butyl rubber tape because it never solidifies and will move with the part.

Even so be cautious and watchfull for any sign of leakage or movement.

 

[Steve DAntonio]

its not being used for structural application. It is being thur bolted onto the foredeck to raise the foredeck even with the pulpit.

I guess I'm not understanding it, it's neither in compression nor tension, the windlass is not being mounted on it?

 

[FF]

"It is being thur bolted onto the foredeck to raise the foredeck even with the pulpit."


That's what Teak was invented for.

 

[diver dave]

I'd worry about teak splitting. It might, or not. How big a piece are we talking about? Consider a piece of Delrin. Its stable dimensionally. Get it in black or white. Drills, cuts, nicely.
I would also think about a piece of 1" core, and put a layer of biax on both sides, but what kind of compression loads are we dealing with??

 

[jclays]

I'd worry about teak splitting. It might, or not. How big a piece are we talking about? Consider a piece of Delrin. Its stable dimensionally. Get it in black or white. Drills, cuts, nicely.
I would also think about a piece of 1" core, and put a layer of biax on both sides, but what kind of compression loads are we dealing with??

Piece is 12"Dx19"Wx1"T
There is the compression of being thru bolted to the deck. Total of 8 this is including the windlass studs (3)
Having a hard time inserting photos of a sister ship with similar setup.

 

[diver dave]

I had a full width dive platform made of starboard. Had no issues with it, it gained its structure with steel tubes below. But, i didnt have to worry with water sealing bolt holes.

If your proposed set up is a simple clamp down to the FLAT deck with heavy hardware, then structurally u will be fine. You can even put a nice round edge on the SB with a laminate router. That just leaves the water seal issue at the perimeter and the bolt holes. I dont have the sealing experience with butyl on SB to offer an opinion.

 

[jclays]

Thanks Diver Dave…that is what I’m saying

 

[ksanders]

The 1” thick starboard will be thru bolted thru the foredeck.
The windlass studs extend thru the starboard ,deck and 1/4” metal backing plate.

I just went through this last month.

Starboard will deform under the bolt compression load and will also end up facilitating water leaks into the deck core material.

What I ended up using as a top plate was 1/2" G10 finished with gelcoat

This stuff is structural in nature and is absolutely water proof.

I adhered the plate that I cut to fit to the existing deck using westsystems resin.

The end result looks great and the total time above what a starboard installation would have taken is a couple hours.

 

[Steve DAntonio]

But why use SB when other more appropriate materials exist? I've used, and removed, Starboard throughout my 33 year career in this industry, I've been disappointed with structural results on many, not all but many occasions. Being slippery, it also has a tendency to shift under shear load, but it's great for cutting boards. Conversely, I've never had a structural issue using GPO3 or G10, strong, stable, rot-proof, stiff and reinforced.

Using SB for steps, ladder treads, or swim platforms and other surfaces you walk or step on makes absolutely no sense to me, why use a material that is slippery for a footing surface?

Solid timber, regardless of the species, should not be used for compression or backing blocks, as others have said, it is prone to splitting.

 

[jclays]

Starboard and windlass bolted to deck and caulked.wiring the new windlass on Tuesday.

 

[Comodave]

What did you use for caulking?

 

[jclays]

I’ve had very good luck with Loctite Marine caulking and adhesive

 

[Comodave]

The only caulk that I have ever found that will stick to HDPE is an Elastomeric caulk. The others will stick for a bit then let go. I also have used butyl tape but it isn’t really what people consider a caulk. I have owned 2 rotocast boats that are made with HDPE and the manufacturer recommended only Sudbury Elastomeric caulk.

 

[jclays]

I’ve used the loctite marine on starboard/plywood bond. When I had to separate the two I had to use a thin chisel and chunks of plywood were still attached to the starboard. I’m very comfortable with this material.

 

[jclays]

All finished. New windlass installed and running fine.

 

[rgano]

I’ve used the loctite marine on starboard/plywood bond. When I had to separate the two I had to use a thin chisel and chunks of plywood were still attached to the starboard. I’m very comfortable with this material.

Learned something new. Thank you, sir.

 

[rgano]

I’ve used the loctite marine on starboard/plywood bond. When I had to separate the two I had to use a thin chisel and chunks of plywood were still attached to the starboard. I’m very comfortable with this material.

Learned something new. Thank you, sir.