Thoughts on my ground tackle?

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Is galvanic corrosion really a concern if the anchor and swivel are not constantly immersed in the same electrolyte (water)? Could be wrong, but I’d have thought the intermittent dunking of the anchor wouldn’t give galvanic corrosion a chance to form.

To the OP, we have the Mantus S2 and it’s a strong, well-made piece of equipment. People unfamiliar with the design warn about the risks of side-loading but it’s virtually a non-issue withheld Mantus. Easy to spin our 80-lb Manson Supreme with a boat hook when necessary.

Guess it depends on how often and how long you anchor.
 
I agree the Mantus swivel is one of the best there is. Personally I have the Ultra flip-swivel which I think is equally robust, but has the advantage of flipping the anchor to the correct orientation when it hits the roller. Never any need to manually adjust the anchor.

Some videos here:
https://ultramarinewest.com/products/ultra-flip-swivel
 
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Well, if neither a new swivel or double sheave bracket do the trick, you could always change anchors. I have an 85 lb. Mantus on my '82 42 GB and it comes up into the original roller every time without any assist from me. (No wife...) I've never used a swivel. I have a Lewmar H2 windless.

I've also used a 65 lb. Mantus that worked equally well.

Good luck!
 
I have always thought the hinged double sheave arrangement on bow rollers is the cat's meow and would resolve a lot of these last-foot-of-retrieval issues.

Absolutely right Rich. So much so, I actually bought an hinged roller combination, and removed the original bronze roller of the pulpit assembly, using the bolt from that through drilled holes to mount the new hinged assembly inside the old roller assembly. I worked exceptionally well.

This pic might make that more intelligible for anyone contemplating doing the same. Just one important point. When doing trial fittings, tie the new assembly to the boat..! Ask me how I know. Fortunately my berth neighbour at the time had scuba gear... :D
 

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See my last post for an explanation. We also battle with getting the anchor turned properly to come on deck. Invariably it comes up the wrong way around.
A 73 lb anchor and 100 lb wife isn't a good combination.

I have a 150lb anchor and a more Rubinesque wife
But she doesn't do the lifting, the windlass does

We have no fancy hinged bow roller
Grooved rollers take care of everything 99% of the time
No swivel required.

We anchor every night, into our 5th year at anchor, zero marina time.
 
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I have a 44’ Tollycraft 28k lbs
I use the Rocna 1 size under yours - 55lb
I have the 73 lb that I put on for hurricanes.

Would like to use the bigger anchor routinely but my Plath windlass (model 15 I think) seems strained with the 73 lb. could be my imagination though.

I got tired of the occasional fuse blow and switched to a 100amp circuit breaker (same size as the recomended fuse).

But since bringing up the anchor and pausing multiple times in the process haven’t had a circuit breaker trip. The times I blew a fuse was when I hit the up windlass button and ran it almost continuously all the way up (and I do use the engine to bring the boat to the chain). When the anchor hit the roller that slight strain on an already heated system would cause an increased amp draw that caused the fuse to blow - at least that’s my interpretation of what was happening.

So next size anchor down, lots of pauses coming up, engines to help bring in the chain, and careful on the final roller contact worked for me.
I just wait till the anchor spins right and bring it on in. Sometimes I do have to lay my hands on it.
 
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I frequently have some problems with anchor coming in reversed. It happened a couple weeks ago and I had to get up in the bow, and lift and twist the chain by hand to get the anchor to enter the roller.

Has anyone used the AnchorRight Flip Link?
 
This thread got me to pay closer attention to my incoming anchor. It can be seen reversed, spinning, backwards until it gets to the roller and then flips to correct position.

I got nothing. What I see does not help to explain why. My only thought is that the chain is not twisted in the windless going down so it comes back guided as it left.

Everyone says they turn it but no one has said they also turn/line up the chain on the gypsy with anchor so there is not 90 or 180 twist in the last few feet
 
I frequently have some problems with anchor coming in reversed. It happened a couple weeks ago and I had to get up in the bow, and lift and twist the chain by hand to get the anchor to enter the roller.

Has anyone used the AnchorRight Flip Link?

I don't have room for that on my pulpit. My anchor is pretty close to the windlass when stowed. The Ultra flip swivel works 100% of the time for me, but some do not like swivels or the expense of the Ultra. For me it's well worth it.
 
This thread got me to pay closer attention to my incoming anchor. It can be seen reversed, spinning, backwards until it gets to the roller and then flips to correct position.

I got nothing. What I see does not help to explain why. My only thought is that the chain is not twisted in the windless going down so it comes back guided as it left.

Everyone says they turn it but no one has said they also turn/line up the chain on the gypsy with anchor so there is not 90 or 180 twist in the last few feet


I have let out all my chain and then brought it in again just to ensure that their aren’t any twists. Still will have problem at times. I wonder if a grove in the roller would make a difference?
 
I don't have room for that on my pulpit. My anchor is pretty close to the windlass when stowed. The Ultra flip swivel works 100% of the time for me, but some do not like swivels or the expense of the Ultra. For me it's well worth it.


That is my concern with the Flip Link. I may not have room. I have not been comfortable with swivels in the past, but that Ultra flip looks effective. It is pretty dang expensive though.
 
That is my concern with the Flip Link. I may not have room. I have not been comfortable with swivels in the past, but that Ultra flip looks effective. It is pretty dang expensive though.

It is expensive, but well engineered and manufactured in my opinion. Often you get what you pay for. In the scheme of things, if it's as durable as advertised and works as well as they say (in my experience it does), then to me it's worth the $$ to make anchor retrival that much easier every time.
 
See my last post for an explanation. We also battle with getting the anchor turned properly to come on deck. Invariably it comes up the wrong way around.
A 73 lb anchor and 100 lb wife isn't a good combination.
Just take out a very good insurance policy on your wife :angel:
A few possible ideas. One, you and your wife trade "roles" when retrieving the anchor. :thumb:Develop hand signals or use headsets to ensure good communication between the two of you. If she doesn't know how to run the boat yet, she really should learn, and this is a small first step as you can give "directions" (advice) from the bow.

If you feel that a swivel is helpful, (and to me they only are good for moving the anchor to the correct orientation by hand), ensure that the swivel is not the "weak link" in your system (by rating). Also, ensure that your anchor cannot "side load" the swivel when on the bottom. Some swivels (a few) are designed to deal with the side load issue, others are very, very suspect in that regard and could become the cause of a ground tackle system failure during wind or current changes. There are ways to mitigate this such as adding in a short length of chain between the anchor and the swivel.

Otherwise your setup sounds very good. Good anchor, lots of chain, etc.
Good luck with it.
 
I've got my wife comfortable to move the boat while I retrieve the anchor using hand signals. Works welll for us. So I will say this again at the risk of sounding like a salesman, the Ultra flip swivel is designed (as many are now) to deal with side loading issues. If sized properly, they are likely the strongest link in your ground tackle. But the main thing I keep trying to convey (watch the videos) is that is does the flipping for you. No manual intervention required to properly orient the anchor. It solves all those problems for you, all you have to worry about is bringing the anchor and chain off the bottom and you are home free. Seems like few are willing to accept a solution that exists and would rather try other ways to deal with the issue. Is it just cost? With all the $$$ we all spend on boating, is it not worth it to have this solve the problem we are talking about? It's almost like, why get a windlass, I can haul the anchor in by hand. Sure it's a lot of work and a PIA, but why should I pay for one of those fancy windlass devices when I can do without one and save some money too!
 
So even with the compound bow roller the windlass struggles?

I have no experience with these but I was pretty sure they help "getting over the hump".

No personal experience with the bent swivel but to me it seems it would work. Then again, I thought the compound bow roller would work ...

OP here, trying to catch up with all the responses. Xlatnic, what I said was wrong. I don't have a compound bow roller. I didn't notice the second one aft in the picture before responding. I only have a single, fixed, roller.

My main issue is blowing the fuse. Secondary is the anchor coming up backward. Since I already had a new Mantus swivel, outside any return date, I thought I would try it first to see what effect it had. Maybe a high-quality swivel with a little taper would help ease it up and make it easier to turn the anchor when we need to. Maybe it wouldn't do squat.. but at least give it a try before putting out more $$$.

Good thread with lots of good info.
 
As a general statement use the anchor and rode, that once set will protect you, your family and boat.

This is why I have the anchor and 550 ft of chain. I have been caught in 55kt winds and felt safe.
 
I have let out all my chain and then brought it in again just to ensure that their aren’t any twists. Still will have problem at times. I wonder if a grove in the roller would make a difference?
Interesting, I have three groves in roller
 
As a general statement use the anchor and rode, that once set will protect you, your family and boat.

This is why I have the anchor and 550 ft of chain. I have been caught in 55kt winds and felt safe.


I'm with you on the long rode. I know mine is long enough because the last 100 feet have never left the locker. Few people around here carry more than 200 feet total (mostly mixed rodes). They all think I'm a bit crazy for my 90 feet of chain and 300 feet of line.
 
As a general statement use the anchor and rode, that once set will protect you, your family and boat.

This is why I have the anchor and 550 ft of chain. I have been caught in 55kt winds and felt safe.

And I have been caught in a 55 knot gale and held fast w an 18lb anchor and 10’ of chain. 30’ 8 ton boat.
 
Correct Eric, it's not the chain that holds you.
 
Dave, memory is you have a Sarca Excel (as do I now, the Super diddn`t fit the new boat). Anchorright make a "flip link",here`s the link to it: Anchor Right Australia introduces, the innovative Flip Link - Anchor Right Australia


Your memory is correct. I have the Sarca Excel and I think I was the first US customer for the North American distributor. Great anchor.

I’ve looked at the flip link, I just am not sure if I have enough room between the anchor shank and the windlass.
 
And I have been caught in a 55 knot gale and held fast w an 18lb anchor and 10’ of chain. 30’ 8 ton boat.


I will assume that you had an anchor, 10’ of chain in addition to a good length of rope rode.
 
Your memory is correct. I have the Sarca Excel and I think I was the first US customer for the North American distributor. Great anchor.

I’ve looked at the flip link, I just am not sure if I have enough room between the anchor shank and the windlass.

But the flip swivel will fit! I like the Sarca Excel, looks somewhat similar in desigh to my Ultra. Never tried it, but I would bet it's a great anchor.
 
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In my travels in Alaska, average anchor depth is 40-60 ft with 120 to 200 ft of rode.

On occasion we have anchored in 100ft.
 

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