Swing on the hook

[psneeld]

I thought in the PNW, stern anchoring to shore was popular...

 

[firehoser75]

Psneeld,
It can be, depending on time of year and the anchorage in question. You can get by without it most of the time in most locations. However, for example, Melanie Cove, it is pretty much required due to configuration of the cove, and the fact that most everyone else will be stern tied.

 

[psneeld]

So like most things on TF....it depends.....

 

[markpierce]

I'm paranoid about anchoring. Although it hasn't happened to me, yet, I worry about snagging a sunken boat, a barbed-wire fence or a tractor in a permanently-flooded island, a sunken cable, or whatever.

 

[koliver]

So like most things on TF....it depends.....

The biggest variable, one that we hardly every hear mentioned, is the depth of the water.
Here in SW BC, our tides are 10 to 14 ft. Our typical anchorages are 50' depth. add the tidal range to the depth, allow for anchoring in up to 75' depth. at the same time, those in the east are anchoring in 8' depth at low water, with a tidal range of only a few ft, so total of maybe 15'. add the height of your anchor roller off the water, say another 8', so 23'. That is less than 1/3 of the total height we in the west see as normal. You need to also be aware of the length of your boat. A 50' boat , sailing on the wind at anchor, is going to exert a lot more side force on the anchor if there is only a couple of boat lengths of rode out at 7 to 1 than a similar size boat in SW BC on 3 to 1. We can safely rely on less scope here.

 

[FF]

"I'm paranoid about anchoring. Although it hasn't happened to me, yet, I worry about snagging a sunken boat, a barbed-wire fence or a tractor in a permanently-flooded island, a sunken cable, or whatever."

Carry a grappling hook with the hope to catch and lift to clear the obstruction , or a 3/8 line with sounding weight and a line passed thru the eye of an anchor ball secured to the crown of the anchor as a trip line.

Not only is it a trip line , it also is a great help for late arrivals to know where your anchor is ,to not foul you.

 

[syjos]

I'm paranoid about anchoring. Although it hasn't happened to me, yet, I worry about snagging a sunken boat, a barbed-wire fence or a tractor in a permanently-flooded island, a sunken cable, or whatever.

We've been anchoring in the PNW for 35 years and have never snagged the anchor on anything. And we anchored in areas before the bottoms were cleared of left behind logging equipment and cables.

Sunken wrecks are usually marked on charts.

The only things to keep clear in anchorages north are the anchors and cables around fish farming pens and docks secured with ropes or cables.

 

[Spinner]

Re losing an anchor to a snag on the bottom:

I have a pre-set-up anchor retrieval system (it’s by ScanMar) which should simplify retrieval if the anchor gets snagged on something https://www.scanmarinternational.com/anchor-rescue-store

I carry a second primary anchor and rode, although I couldn’t go all chain due to the logistics of my windlass/ anchor locker combination.

I’d hate to lose an anchor, but I’m set up for that situation! I do boat in areas (northern BC) where there are no marinas or docks, so this was important for me

 

[syjos]

Re losing an anchor to a snag on the bottom:

I have a pre-set-up anchor retrieval system (it’s by ScanMar) which should simplify retrieval if the anchor gets snagged on something https://www.scanmarinternational.com/anchor-rescue-store

I carry a second primary anchor and rode, although I couldn’t go all chain due to the logistics of my windlass/ anchor locker combination.

I’d hate to lose an anchor, but I’m set up for that situation! I do boat in areas (northern BC) where there are no marinas or docks, so this was important for me

Or Ankorex:

https://second-wind.net/products/an...coil-chain-equivalent-foulded-anchor-releaser

A large shackle or a loop of chain is also used as an anker chaser.

But as I said previously, I've never had to break out a fouled anchor or use a trip line.

 

[Comodave]

We have deanchored several boats that had fouled anchors. We used a 25 ton shackle to run down their anchor rode. It works very well but has a bit of danger involved if you don’t get the shackle down to the anchor properly.

 

[Stabi]

We used a 25 ton shackle to run down their anchor rode. It works very well but has a bit of danger involved if you don’t get the shackle down to the anchor properly.

Please explain
Thanks

 

[Comodave]

We retired after 30 years in the CG Auxiliary. We used to train on deanchoring another boat in the Boat Crew Program. The CG stopped us from training because someone lost a couple of fingers doing it. Basically you would take a huge shackle or a short loop of heavy chain and put it around the disabled vessels anchor rode. Have the disabled boat take in all slack out of the anchor rode. We would attach our tow line to the shackle and let the shackle drop to the anchor. If all slack was out the shackle would ride down to the crown of the anchor. We then would tow the boat out in the opposite direction that they set the anchor in. If you do it correctly the disabled vessels anchor would be pulled up and we usually could get it to ride up to the surface and see the anchor. The problem is if it is done incorrectly and you don’t get the shackle to go all the way to the crown of the disabled anchor, and then started pulling the shackle will ride back up the disabled vessels rode and hit the boat near the gunnel. Some dim bulb auxilarist did this and the boat owner saw the shackle coming up to the gunnel and tried to grab it to stop it from hitting the boat. He lost a couple of fingers... That ended us training on doing it. When done correctly it works wonderfully, but if you don’t get the shackle all the way down on the anchor it will come back up with a vengeance. The towing boat crew has to know how to do it properly and has to be aware what it looks like when it first starts going wrong because it happens quickly. We did this 3 times in real life and saved the boat owners anchors. We have done it countless times in training. If you know what you are doing you can actually feel the shackle riding down the rode, chain and finally the anchor, but the feel is very subtle. So it can be dangerous. Don’t take what I have said here as training on how to do it and then try it yourself!

 

[syjos]

Please explain
Thanks

What Dave described is the way it's done. I've also assisted others when their anchor is stuck. We were pulling the rope to the shackle in our 34 Mainship when the line parted at the shackle. The line came flying out of the water like a rubber band towards us. Not cool!

 

[psneeld]

I too have tried/done it many times as an assistance tower....I had maybe a 60 percent success rate.

If the loop, shackle, whatever.... doesnt get down the shank of the anchor...usually a no go.

So depending on what it gets fouled on ......affects success.

Also, not an easy thing to do depending on vessels, currents, manpower.....it often turns ugly quick.

Also.....price the lost anchor versus the potential for harm and injury.....if it's not going smoothly ac nd feels like power over finesse.....probably best to stop and cut free with a buoy. Come back or let a diver check it out if it's a bunch of money hung up.

 

[Comodave]

As a tower you were probably single handed, on patrol I always had a qualified crew on board so it was much easier to do. However it can indeed go sideways quickly.

 

[syjos]

There are always good samaritan boaters with scuba gear aboard that I've seen retrieve fouled anchors when boaters with the stuck anchor puts out a VHF call

I carry diving gear for emergencies aboard but have never had to use it.

 

[Nomad Willy]

I'm paranoid about anchoring. Although it hasn't happened to me, yet, I worry about snagging a sunken boat, a barbed-wire fence or a tractor in a permanently-flooded island, a sunken cable, or whatever.

Mark,
Get a SARCA and not worry.
Remember the slot? Just back over the set anchor and pull it out backwards.

Yea .. I’d be think’in bout that anchoring in a river all the time. I only did that once ... on a small river delta in Rocky Pass .. Keku Creek. A bit south of Big John Bay. It was fairly shallow but the only thing that would set was my old 13lb Danforth. Seemed like a hard bottom though. One of the many times the Danforth worked when none other would.

The SARCA definitely is a peace of mind anchor. Shines at 3-1 too. Re-visit Steve’s Anchor Setting Video’s.

 

[slowgoesit]

There are always good samaritan boaters with scuba gear aboard that I've seen retrieve fouled anchors when boaters with the stuck anchor puts out a VHF call

I carry diving gear for emergencies aboard but have never had to use it.

Yup, that's the best answer!
Always had Scuba gear aboard, but only had to use it to untangle an anchor once . . .

 

[amapola]

Our trawler swings a lot so we anchor as far away as possible from other boaters. Of course, there's always that late arrival that anchors right on top of you.

 

[stow it]

saw these two guys rafted up yesterday and thought the angle didn't look right; they were rafted stern to stern at a 90 degree angle. once I got closer I realized that there was a bad anchoring job involved, probably by the outboard owner since the trawler's anchor line seemed pretty secure. initially I thought one of the outboards was hung up on the trawler's swim platform, upon closer inspection the stbd quarter of the outboard is sitting on the swim platform, which explains the sagging swim platform. Sarcasm intended. unfortunate because there is plenty of room to anchor in this area and no need to anchor on top of someone else.

 

[Slider70]

I boat in the PNW area and have done for almost 60 years. The answer I would give to the original questions is as another has said 'It depends.' I think the best advice is do mainly what others are doing. There are so many variables in our area that hard rules laid down from a book are of minimal value.

I have hooked one wreck in Buccaneer Bay in those years. I got half of the wreck to the surface after an hours work - a 24' with the leg still on it. Hook a much larger wreck in Otter Bay in Johnstone Strait. I manage to rip the hand railing off of it and brought that to the surface. I also snagged one very large ships anchor with all the rode still on it in Safety Cove. I also got it to the surface with an exceptionally large commercial double gear winch I had on my then 41' troller.

The later two snags were the result of coming in late and anchoring out deeper than normal to stay away from the very large fleet already anchored.

If for some reason you drift into another, or vise versa, at night, do what many commercial fish boat guys do. Put some good fenders out between the two and tie to the other vessel until morning. Usually it is the safest thing to do till light?

 

[sdupleich]

To prevent your anchor form fouling and also to mark the location of your anchor, consider making an anchor tripline buoy:

It's very easy to do - just make sure to use a sufficient length of line for the depth that you're anchoring in.

 

[FF]

The video gives the basics but as the setup will be on the deck or in a locker on top a lead sounding weight can be helpful in figuring bottom type .

I have found a round ball is less likely to be seen as a floating "find" for kids.

If the trip line is used to bring the anchor to the surface , only 1/2 the chain weight is felt when pulling the chain by hand.

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

Check out handheld rangefinders...better at estimating distance over water than I'll ever be!

Some suggestions. Get a range finder. Inexpensive and they give accurate distances with no fuss or muss. You could use your radar, but the range finder will tell you quickly within a foot or so.
The worst time to anchor in a crowded anchorage is in "no wind or current". You can't tell where anyone's anchor is located or how they are lying to it. Give extra space under these conditions if possible.

So assuming a decent wind or current, the boats' anchors will be in front of them somewhere. Once you know what depth you will be anchoring in, you can figure out your swing room from your scope. So for example, in 10 feet of water with a scope of 5 to 1, you will swing approx. 50 feet in any direction from your anchor (50 foot radius plus your boat length). Ideally then, don't drop your anchor any closer than 50 feet (plus your boat length) (better 100 feet so in theory your circles don't overlap) to another boat. This is a starting point, but often people will come in after you and anchor in between you and another boat, taking up some of the "room" you left.

As Murray stated, the last boat in is the one that is supposed to move if a problem is expected or develops. When a boat comes in and anchors too close, I take photos, note the time and distance measurements and put it into my log, where I have already noted my time of arrival, depth, scope, etc. just in case of an insurance claim (never needed it yet) . In most cases, people coming in after you will move if asked, especially when told how far away they actually are (how close).
Lay your anchor down at the spot you have determined is good, and when the anchor is on the bottom, slowly back up while laying out your rode. Once your have reached the necessary scope, "set your anchor" by applying reverse throttle to ensure it will hold. Depending on your boat and HP, idle may be enough or part throttle. I am usually happy when my chain rode goes totally taunt and judging by our surroundings we are no longer moving. When the boat is put into neutral, it will move forward, which is another good indicator that you are adequately set.
Don't forget to use a bridle or "snubber" to take the load off the windlass even when "setting".
In a windy crowded anchorage, motor up behind a boat, keeping the correct distance side to side from other boats, and drop your anchor at least "half your scope" back. The boat you are behind should be at or near the end of their scope under those conditions. You will need a minimum of 2.5 times your scope between boats (fore and aft) of where you want to anchor when windy (more would be better).
Better yet, find an anchorage with lots of room.
Some good info from others already. We try for a 5 to 1 scope (unless big winds are expected) but sometimes have to settle for less (never less than 3 to1 for my comfort).
Edit: Always calculate scope for high tide and never anchor in a spot that has less than your boat's draft at low tide We can have some large tidal swings in our area.

You'll get a feel for it. One of the most difficult things is that local customs often dictate how this will play out. For example, it is rare here in the PNW for boaters to put out as much scope as many wish. My standard is 5:1 in normal weather and normal holding conditions, but that will get me into trouble swinging into the neighbors in many anchorages, where 3:1 or even 2:1 seem to be most common. We've learned that adjustments may be needed, up to and including weighing anchor and moving farther away from folks who don't seem to understand what's going on. I'd rather do that than be fending off other boats at 2 am. It does get uncomfortable at times when you're just distanced perfectly from the neighbors and some lunkhead plops down right in the middle, but I'd rather call their attention to the concern and risk prickly feelings than feel the big CLUNK in the middle of the night.

Having an anchor watch app on your phone or tablet is a wonderful way to really learn how your boat swings and what scope and tidal range do to influence the boat's excursions. Have a good spotlight or flashlight at the ready to help you sort out what's happening after dark when the tide turns.

To prevent your anchor form fouling and also to mark the location of your anchor, consider making an anchor tripline buoy:

It's very easy to do - just make sure to use a sufficient length of line for the depth that you're anchoring in.

So the OP is in the PNW, has an all chain rode. All the advice above is what you need. Practice is very important. Practice alot.

I was like the OP, the first year we went north, I was terrified to anchor. I didn't get much sleep that year or we stayed at marinas. That was 2016. Now we prefer to anchor. Our average rode out is 200-250 feet.

Nanaimo B.C. is the most challenging as it is always blowing and the anchorage is crowded. Always and I mean each time we are there, sailboats break anchor. EVERY TIME!!! In areas like this I put out an anchor buoy too. Let's everyone know where my anchor is.

Good luck!!!!

 

[firehoser75]

You are right about Nanaimo Tom. It is my home port, and the wind (coupled with the tidal current where we tie up) can make docking a bit tricky some days. Even though the Port Authority is supposed to somewhat "police" that anchorage, there are some boats there that have been there for over a year. Not what is intended.
You might try the Cameron Island docks (Port Authority) if winds are predicted to be up to avoid the dragging boats, or if you have reciprocal, the Nanaimo Yacht Club docks just down the channel.

 

[syjos]

For those new to anchoring or afraid to anchor overnight or people that don't get a good night sleep at anchor, try this.

Pick a good anchorage that is close to a marina, dock or mooring buoy. Arrive early to get a good spot.

Drop anchor in a spot with plenty of room to swing and make sure anchor is set with power, adequate scope is let out for the condition and that it is holding. Put the chain riding stopper (snubber) on. Leave your plotter on so you can watch the boats movement on the screen.

You will sit through at least two tide changes. This will give you the opportunity to experience the tide changes in daylight. You can monitor how the boat behaves, rode angles, noises, your boats orientation in comparison to other nearby boats and whether the anchor is dragging or holding. The plotter will provide a visual presentation of your boats movements.

If the wind comes up, even better opportunity to see how it affects your boat and the ones around you.

After two complete tide changes, you should have a better feel for the boats behavior and gain confidence that the anchor will not drag. If feeling pretty good, spend the night.

If you are still uncomfortable spending the night, go back to the dock, marina, mooring buoy and get a good night's sleep. Go back to the anchorage in the morning and anchor like you did on the previous morning and spend another day at anchor getting acclimated.

After sitting through several tide changes and various wind, you should hopefully have more confidence in your anchor and anchoring abilities. If not, keep anchoring in daytime until you are comfortable.

There are some boaters that never lose the fear of anchoring.

And just because an anchor drags, it does not mean you will be flung onto shore instantly. During dragging, the anchor drags, catches, drags, catches etc. Everything at slow motion.

And if your boat gets dragged towards another boat, it's not going to be a strong impact when they touch. Most likely, you will hear a thump thump instead of a BANG! More embarrassing than actual damage.

And I guarantee that unless you anchored at the top of a waterfall or similar, your life is not in danger from a dragging anchor.

 

[foreverunderway]

I'm sorry to be a bit off subject here, but you really should get rid of the Bruce and get a next gen anchor like a Rocna as your #1 anchor. The Bruce was never designed as a short term anchor, but rather as an anchor to let set for a long period on things like oil rigs.
You'll find that if you have a better (next gen) anchor, you won't need as much scope and therefore you will swing less.

 

[Giggitoni]

 

[markpierce]

The Bruce was "the" anchor of the 1980s, and they've never failed me. Setting the anchor in a 2-knot current (in the San Francisco bay/estuary) has always jerked my boats to a stop and never "lost it" during tidal current reversals. All my Bruces were fakes, merely cheap, copycat claws.

 

[Nomad Willy]

The Claws are good anchor.
But if you want to play “who’s got the latest” thing get a Rockna.

We went to Alaska in our 25’ boat w a 16lb no-name Claw. Not much wind and no problems. They swing and set well. They fit on the bows of boats well.

I’ve been using 13 - 18lb anchors and never dragged. On initial set I’ve had to try again numerous to many times. Never used more than 15’ of chain but I set the anchor until I was satisfied. One definitely dosn’t need all chain but when using old anchors use a little more chain than I use. More scope would depend on the anchor as quite a few older anchors due short scope quite well. Claws do. And some next gen anchors don’t do short scope. If I was heading to Alaska I’d want short scope performance. Either that or I’d stay within one day’s run of a harbor w floats and pilings.

But whatever one does it’s necessary to stay within the limits of the gear.