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Old 06-14-2018, 10:13 AM   #21
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I wouldn't want to run the snubber over the bow pulpit. There is too much force on the pulpit. I had a friend shear a bolt and bend a second on his bow roller when we got caught in a microburst a few weekends ago.

I have had the same concern, but was never sure if the concerns were valid or not. That is one of the reasons Iíve been using a bridle. However, in a real blow, the scope is going to be about 7:1 and their wonít be as much down angle on the snubber. Still, I like the bridle.
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Old 06-14-2018, 10:22 AM   #22
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I prefer that the bow roller and pulpit be used for storage, deployment and retrieval. The loads go on the snubbers to the bow cleats.
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Old 06-14-2018, 12:13 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shrew View Post
I wouldn't want to run the snubber over the bow pulpit. There is too much force on the pulpit. I had a friend shear a bolt and bend a second on his bow roller when we got caught in a microburst a few weekends ago.
That's a too short scope issue and an insufficient snubber length. Bet he wasn't running 7:1 scope. Before you tell me 7:1 isn't necessary, your friend is proof that it's prudent.

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A snubber won't help with sailing whether it is over the bow roller or on the bow cleats. Two snubbers (one on each cleat) prevents the boat from yawing, .
Two snubbers don't prevent sailing at anchor. Spent a year and a half trying to make it work. My boat sails less with a single line over the bow roller. The pivot point is probably 7 or 8' further forward.

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Old 06-14-2018, 12:37 PM   #24
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Not casting aspersions on your friend's pulpit, but the Hampton setup seems pretty darn stout. I think the line would break before damage could happen to this gear.
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Old 06-18-2018, 09:46 AM   #25
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Dhayes had mentioned a pic with the entire platform. Was on the boat yesterday, with a wide angle lens (!) and was able to get the shots.
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Old 06-18-2018, 10:54 AM   #26
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Great shot Bob. Looks like plenty of room for a cleat between the two chains forward of the windlass. I think it would work in that position to secure a snubber for either anchor.
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Old 06-18-2018, 06:04 PM   #27
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I am fond of using a length of 3-strand nylon with the last 4-6 feet having the three strands unlaid and then braided (same as a woman's hair braid). You will find this arrangement MUCH, MUCH "grippier" than the original 3-strand on chain OR nylon rode.
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Old 06-23-2018, 01:07 PM   #28
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Use an Mantus Bridle and tie off to the two forward cleats on either side of the bow. That way, you have stretch, and keep the boat from hunting in wind, and if chafing cuts one line, you still have another leg of the bridge. You have an ultra anchor? I think Ultra also makes a chain grab too...

https://www.mantusmarine.com/snubbersbridles/


Same here. Works great.
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Old 06-23-2018, 01:39 PM   #29
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Unfortunately, no bridle combination has ever stopped either this boat or my Grand Banks 42 from hunting and over the place. Finally gave it up as a bad idea and am far happier and less complicated with a single snubber.
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Old 06-30-2018, 09:37 AM   #30
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Update. The commissioning guys grabbed a couple of cleats from Fisheries. This is a large cleat, 8". For this application, I feel the mounting holes are "tiny." Looks like it would take a 1/4" bolt, not sure, I didn't measure.

But I just don't like the feeling of a cleat we install here being the interface between 500 or more pounds of anchor/chain and 120,000 lbs of boat.

If I had it to do over again I would have the factory add a Samson post.

So I'm going to go back to the dual snubber idea since I have great hawse holes with integrated cleats.
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Old 06-30-2018, 10:04 AM   #31
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Yeah, that cleat is good for holding temporary loads like maybe just the weight of an anchor while shifting rodes or some other "admin" function. I would NEVER use it (I have one just like it in the same position) to do something like break an anchor free of the bottom. That's what you use the hawse holes and Sampson post for. The construction of my boat is so light and flimsy that I don't actually trust a single cleat on the boat for any serious loading, but that's the price for light and fast.
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Old 06-30-2018, 11:17 AM   #32
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I think your cleat is an 8Ē heavy duty Sea Dog cleat. That cleat uses 4 x 1/4Ē through bolts for mounting. I am sure that there is a materials engineer on TF that could tell you how strong they would be.

I think the ultimate strength will be determined by how strong the material is that the cleat is bolted to as well as quality of the installation. Large washers or a backing plate would make that cleat plenty strong. It would be good to get some idea of the strength of the bolts and mounting, but if I had to make a guess, I think it would be plenty strong for your purposes. You certainly donít want to count on the guess of an ignorant sailor however.

The idea is to use it as an attachment point for a snubber. As such, the cleat will not be subject to large snatch loads. Anchoring, you will have first chain catenary, then the stretch of a snubber to reduce the shock loads.

However, if you were anticipating any heavy wind, Iíd be using the hawse holes and a bridle.
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Old 06-30-2018, 11:22 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustBob View Post
Update. The commissioning guys grabbed a couple of cleats from Fisheries. This is a large cleat, 8". For this application, I feel the mounting holes are "tiny." Looks like it would take a 1/4" bolt, not sure, I didn't measure.

But I just don't like the feeling of a cleat we install here being the interface between 500 or more pounds of anchor/chain and 120,000 lbs of boat.

If I had it to do over again I would have the factory add a Samson post.

So I'm going to go back to the dual snubber idea since I have great hawse holes with integrated cleats.
Looks like it just might be appropriately sized for my boat but definitely not for yours. What were they thinking?
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