Sizing rope section of Anchor Rode

[backinblue]

I also have 8 plait as most of my anchor rode and like it. It's much more flexible and goes through the windlass and into the locker much easier. For dock lines I'd stick with 3 strand or double braid because I think they are both more durable to abrasion and won't pick up splinters as easily. Some windlasses will accept double braid, some want 3 or 8, so check your manual. I suggest you soak your new line in fresh water for a couple days before using it.

 

[koliver]

The brait looks to have superior flexibility over 3 strand. Is it, and is that what helps it pass through the gypsy. Academic really, I don`t recall seeing brait here. Does it cost more than 3 strand?

Nor do we see "Brait" here in BC. My search of what Google can find seems to show a single braid line as "Brait" and a double braided line as "Braid", though none I could find opened up the lines or showed a "Brait" being spliced. Wiki simply doesn't recognize "Brait".

Flexibility also seems to depend more on the material than on how it is laid. For example, I have a couple of milk boxes filled with 3 strand 1/2" nylon that I have used for years as my stern tie shore line. As it sinks, I have now replaced it with a coil of braided, floating nylon. If any difference in flexibility exists, I give it to the 3 strand over the braid. The braid stays on its original roll, so storage conditions are different, but just dropping the 3 strand back into the cubic boxes works without any tangling.

Anyone knowing for sure what the makeup of "Brait" is, please chime in.
And then BiB calls his line "Plait".

 

[backinblue]

Nor do we see "Brait" here in BC. My search of what Google can find seems to show a single braid line as "Brait" and a double braided line as "Braid", though none I could find opened up the lines or showed a "Brait" being spliced. Wiki simply doesn't recognize "Brait".

Flexibility also seems to depend more on the material than on how it is laid. For example, I have a couple of milk boxes filled with 3 strand 1/2" nylon that I have used for years as my stern tie shore line. As it sinks, I have now replaced it with a coil of braided, floating nylon. If any difference in flexibility exists, I give it to the 3 strand over the braid. The braid stays on its original roll, so storage conditions are different, but just dropping the 3 strand back into the cubic boxes works without any tangling.

Anyone knowing for sure what the makeup of "Brait" is, please chime in.
And then BiB calls his line "Plait".

Brait is an 8 strand nylon weave, much different than double braid. Rather than Amazon or Wiki, try some of the major rope suppliers like New England Ropes or Miami Cordage. You can learn more about it there. My Lewmar windlass specifies 3 strand or 8 plait nylon. Double braid is not recommended.

 

[Nomad Willy]

I’ve been using it for 15yrs but really don’t know much about it technically.
I think “Brait” is just a brand name. 8 plait is the proper name (far as I know).
I think I’ve had a few wood slivers but don’t recall them specifically. And my dock lines are all 5/8ths Brait. I pretty-much don’t have problems but on badly rusted cleats I’d rather have 3 strand.

This is the best conversation we’ve ever had on Brait. I suspect there’s many more using it now. A few years ago it was probably a “what’s he talk’in bout”?

And I’m glad to see/hear that some are ditching the extra weight of chain. The expression “all chain rode” has a ring to it and sucks people in .. I think. Marco’s comments about sum up what I’ve been saying for years. Thank you Marco.

 

[rslifkin]

And I’m glad to see/hear that some are ditching the extra weight of chain. The expression “all chain rode” has a ring to it and sucks people in .. I think. Marco’s comments about sum up what I’ve been saying for years. Thank you Marco.

Yeah, plenty of us are using mixed rodes (currently 90 feet of chain, 300 of 8 plait for me). All chain is the universal "it'll work anywhere" answer provided the weight is manageable. Otherwise, the amount of chain needed depends on preference, cruising area (bottom types), etc.

I keep debating moving to 150/250 or 200/200 for my setup, however, as I could manage the weight (and can probably find other ways to lighten the bow a little). It would be nice not to feed the splice through as often (line wears faster than chain), plus then I'd be all set in terms of abrasion resistance anywhere I go. Ideally, all chain would be nice for not holding as much moisture in the chain locker, but I'd want at least 300 feet if I ditched the line portion and I can't stomach adding that much weight to the bow (moving to 200/200 would add just about 100 lbs, 300 feet of chain and no line would add about 175 lbs over my current setup).

 

[Nomad Willy]

rslifkin,
I have 400’ of line on my 30’ boat but a lot of it is to keep the boat off the beach/rocks if my single engine quits .. again.
I’d be the laughing stock w 400’ of chain ... I hope.

FF wrote;
“Don't think of anchor line as anchor line , think of it as future dock lines.”
I agree. But I’d be better off w 1/2” dock lines leaving my 5/8ths dock lines for high winds (storm) “storm lines” hey .. sounds good.

 

[backinblue]

Willy is correct. I meant to say 8 plait as the correct name of the rope.

 

[rslifkin]

rslifkin,
I have 400’ of line on my 30’ boat but a lot of it is to keep the boat off the beach/rocks if my single engine quits .. again.
I’d be the laughing stock w 400’ of chain ... I hope.

FF wrote;
“Don't think of anchor line as anchor line , think of it as future dock lines.”
I agree. But I’d be better off w 1/2” dock lines leaving my 5/8ths dock lines for high winds (storm) “storm lines” hey .. sounds good.

I don't use re-use anchor line as dock line, as I have nice looking black double braid dock lines (mostly 5/8", but a couple are 1/2"). Plus the double braid isn't as snag prone as 8 plait (and doesn't have length markings dyed into it like my anchor line). I do keep some old stuff around as extra line just to have, however.

In my case, the long length of anchor line (~375 feet usable) is based on the logic of "if you put it all out in more than a very rare situation, you don't have enough". I'm happy knowing that in any normal anchoring situation, there's more in the locker if needed, and if we go out to watch a sailing race or something, I can anchor pretty much wherever I want without being depth limited (within reason).

 

[backinblue]

Yeah, plenty of us are using mixed rodes (currently 90 feet of chain, 300 of 8 plait for me). All chain is the universal "it'll work anywhere" answer provided the weight is manageable. Otherwise, the amount of chain needed depends on preference, cruising area (bottom types), etc.

I keep debating moving to 150/250 or 200/200 for my setup, however, as I could manage the weight (and can probably find other ways to lighten the bow a little). It would be nice not to feed the splice through as often (line wears faster than chain), plus then I'd be all set in terms of abrasion resistance anywhere I go. Ideally, all chain would be nice for not holding as much moisture in the chain locker, but I'd want at least 300 feet if I ditched the line portion and I can't stomach adding that much weight to the bow (moving to 200/200 would add just about 100 lbs, 300 feet of chain and no line would add about 175 lbs over my current setup).

What is the motivation to change your current setup? It sounds fine to me.

 

[rslifkin]

What is the motivation to change your current setup? It sounds fine to me.

It's fine for most situations, but it would be nice to not have to feed the splice in a wider range of depths (and deal with the chain possibly loading in a different orientation and causing the anchor to need help rotating on retrieval). Plus then we'd be covered in terms of bottom chafe, as 150 - 200 feet of chain should mean we can always avoid having line on the bottom anywhere that's there are rocks or other chafe concerns down there (but still have the line for deep anchorages). Currently, we're a bit depth limited if wanting to keep line off the bottom.

 

[backinblue]

If you don't feed the splice then you have do deal with a bridle or snubber. Changing one job for another.

 

[rslifkin]

If you don't feed the splice then you have do deal with a bridle or snubber. Changing one job for another.

Yeah, but dealing with a snubber is easy. So is the splice, but feeding the splice through every time means more wear and needing to re-splice and ultimately replace the rope portion sooner.

 

[FlyWright]

Yeah, but dealing with a snubber is easy. So is the splice, but feeding the splice through every time means more wear and needing to re-splice and ultimately replace the rope portion sooner.

I went from 30 ft chain/240' Brait to 130'chain/240' Brait to minimize the splice transfer and wear. Essentially, it acts like an all chain rode in typical anchoring depths (15-30 ft) and then there's always more when I need or want it.

For me, it's been the best of both worlds without the extra weight of 300+ ft of chain. Connecting my single snubber is about as easy and fast as cleating the 8-plait Brait.

 

[backinblue]

Yeah, but dealing with a snubber is easy. So is the splice, but feeding the splice through every time means more wear and needing to re-splice and ultimately replace the rope portion sooner.

Hmmmmmm, my splice goes through pretty easily with little visible wear over time. I don't notice the splice wearing any more than the line in general. There is a way to taper the splice. It's kind of shown in my windlass manual. But I let an expert do the splice anyway. I think they charged me $30 for the splice, but I also purchased the line through them, but all good in my book. Very professional job IMO.