Rope to Chain Splice

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We have a big stainless steel split "hoop" that you put around a chain (or rope) and then attach a shackle to. You can then put a kellet and control line on the shackle and send the hoop down the chain however far you want under the weight of the kellet. The hoop is large enough that it slides very easily over even big chain with no problems.

In fact the hoop is large enough to slide down a rode and on over the shank of most anchors. So you can get round the other side of the anchor and pull the hoop to the fluke end of the shank and then back the anchor out. We prefer to use a trip line shackled directly to the wide end of the fluke but we carry the stainless hoop as a Plan B. So far we've never used it, either to hold and position a kellet or back an anchor out.

And Eric, if the guy who designed the wing on the 787--- and it was one guy who did this--- wrote an article about the advancements of wing design using the 787 wing as his example would you discount what he said because he works for Boeing and so has a vested interest in the 787's success?

Peter Smith is no different. He came up with an anchor design that has proved outstanding in service all over the world. And yes, he utilized some ideas that had been proven in other earlier designs and admits this, just as our wing designer used elements of earlier wing designs in his 787 wing and says so.

But the point is that most people who develop new designs for anchors, wings, automotive components, railroad locomotive propulsion systems, you name it, are not doing this in a vacuum. They almost always work for a company or are in the business of making and selling the products they have developed. It's usually the only way the costs of the research and development can be covered.

Are you going to discount the validity of everyone who has proven to be an expert in their field because they work for the company that builds or utilizes their designs, or they build and market the product they designed?

I would find that a very limiting attitude as it would cut me off from benefiting from most of the innovators in this world.

Regardless of what Peter Smith is like as a person--- and I have never met or talked to him so I don't know what he's like--- I think there is no denying he has put a lot of thought into his anchor design and has created a real winner. And he has a ton of real-world boating and anchoring experience in some of the toughest waters in the world--- the southwestern Pacific. So I think he knows whereof he speaks. To discount or dismiss what he says because he's basing it on what he's learned from his experience creating and using an anchor of his own design is, I think, a mistake.
 
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Of course most interesting is the final conclusion that a kellet doesn't make all that much difference in any situation.

Granted, these folks might be trying to sell anchors, but here's the no-Marin-spin actual conclusion. The conclusion states the benefits from the extra weight would be better realized if carried in a larger anchor.
"Conclusion

Consider how much benefit might be achieved by changing the anchor; upgrading to a superior design and also upping the size if desired. An extreme example is in the idea of re-allocating the weight in the simulations above – what if the weight from the 15 kg kellet was instead put into the anchor? A 30 kg or 35 kg anchor would result, for no increase in the total weight of the system – yet the holding power would be massively increased.
Kellets are interesting accessories that unfortunately are frequently misused. Sales talk from companies promising “increased anchor performance” is misleading at best. Kellets do little to improve the ultimate holding power of the anchor."
 
Granted, these folks might be trying to sell anchors, but here's the no-Marin-spin actual conclusion. ....

Marin..."Of course most interesting is the final conclusion that a kellet doesn't make all that much difference in any situation."

Peter Smith....."Kellets do little to improve the ultimate holding power of the anchor."

Still haven't taken that remedial reading class, eh? Better sign up soon before it's filled again.:lol:
 
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I realize your writing skills might exceed your reading ability, so I'll try to make it even simpler for you, marin. Here's the quote again, but this time without all those other distracting words...

"What if the weight from the 15 kg kellet was instead put into the anchor? A 30 kg or 35 kg anchor would result, for no increase in the total weight of the system – yet the holding power would be massively increased."

You ignore the facts of the premise and jump to the conclusion. Try to spend a little effort in reading and understanding the ideas of others rather than wasting all your efforts in verbose dissertations expounding on the merits of your narrow perspective. You might learn something, marin.
 
FlyWright,
Marin's caught up in the Rocna and Smith hype. The anchor I think is great except it may be short on short scope performance but the Smith guy is on the shy side of being a con man. He's smart enough to not get caught telling lies and smart enough to omit what's necessary to present the picture he wants to go to press. And all facts aside I just do'nt like the guy. When an anchor tester told him his anchor put on a less than stellar performance at 3-1 scope he side stepped the point and said one was supposed to anchor at 5-1 and then shorten up. Well the anchor testers obviously thought 3-1 was important as they tested all the anchors at 3-1. The Manson Supreme tested almost as well at 3-1 as the Rocna tested at 5-1. I bought the Manson.

I've pointed out to Marin numerous times that he'd be better off taking off half of his chain and putting that weight into his anchor. You'd think Marin would tell me "that's what Smith says" but he never mentions it. Selective omission .... kinda like the Smith guy.

But I'll read all of Marin's stuff as he has a wonderful flare for uncovering stones that others miss. And Marin posts so much stuff he's bound to get someth'in wrong.
 
Psneeld is correct. Thr right place for a kellet is as halfway down the rode as you can get it. The objective is not to add weight to the head of the anchor shank but to reduce the angle of the rode's pull on the anchor so the pull is more parallel to the bottom than angled up toward the boat which will try to lever the anchor out of the bottom. Sliding a kellet down to the anchor itself won't do this. Positioning the kellet as close to halfway down the rode will.

Absolutely right...and not a bad bit of quick extra security for when a blow is possible, without the complication of tandem or dual anchors on separate rodes.
See here.....
Anchor Buddy anchor weights kellet anchoring technique reduces risk of boat anchors dragging
 
Peter,
psneeld just posted that and if you read the links FlyWright posted you'll see that the best place for the kellet is 2/3rds to 3/4ths of the way down the rode. Not in the middle. Rex was the one that recommended the kellet to me. And I made one (only 12lbs though). The kellet is better at short scope. These aren't my opinions but that Smith guy.
 
Here is the extent of my anchor knowledge:
The type of bottom determines the style of anchor to use.
The heavier the anchor, the better, within reason. If you look at identical designed anchors by the same manufacturer, you will notice the differing specs for holding power. The bigger anchor has more holding power. Of course, there are other factors that come into play such a shank strength, etc. But mainly, the bigger teh anchor, the better the holding power.
My anchor/chain rode is typically 2/3 chain and 1/3 rope.
The Purpose of the chain is to weigh down the rode and help keep it pulling in a horizontal direction. The other lesser purpose of the chain is to reduce chafe on the rope when rubbing on the bottom.
The purpose of the rope is to reduce shock loading on your cleats and your anchor when the bow surges up and down.
As for Anchor Buddies, kellets, and the likes, I seriously doubt they do much good.
When your 20 to 30,000 lb boat surges upward, I doubt that an extra 30 or 40 lbs on your chain, with a 7 to 1 scope will do much good. As a matter of fact, in a blow, your rode is pretty much taut anyway. Not good, but thats the way it is.
As a side note, the rope to chain splice is quite often used not just because of your winch system but also because experience has taught us that the weakest link in the whole rode system is a shackle.
This is my p[ersonal preference and is all up for debate as is all of the different manufacturers debating why their anchor is better.
When I am in calm waters, like protected channels, I just use a 15 Ft chain and the rest is rope.
Typically your scope should be 3 to 1 for a Lunch Hook, 5 to 1 under normal conditions and 7 or 10 to 1 for a storm. I fel that when using the proper anchor, the rest of your system is largely dependant on the scope.
 
You ignore the facts of the premise and jump to the conclusion. Try to spend a little effort in reading and understanding the ideas of others rather than wasting all your efforts in verbose dissertations expounding on the merits of your narrow perspective. You might learn something, marin.

I read both links in their entirety. The were very interesting and I'm glad you put them up. I learned a lot. So thank you for that. However, I have the ability to recognize a summary conclusion when I read one. But a lot of people have difficulty with this level of recognition and interpretation, hence my constructive (and serious) suggestion about the remedial reading and language interpretation class. I know a number of people---even realyl old people--- who have taken them and they all found them very enlightening.
 
FlyWright,
Marin's caught up in the Rocna and Smith hype.....

I've pointed out to Marin numerous times that he'd be better off taking off half of his chain and putting that weight into his anchor. You'd think Marin would tell me "that's what Smith says" but he never mentions it.

Eric--- An anchor that has proven itself to be more consistently successful than most other types (and I include the other rollbar anchors in this statement) is not "hype." It's fact and you can read as many user testimonials about Rocna, Sarca, Manson, and Bugel as you can stand that bear this out.

As I've posted before, I am seeing more Rocnas on boats in our marina and in the local yard almost every time we're up in Bellingham these days. I've even seen one recently on a 58' commercial limit seiner.

I think Smith came up with a brilliant anchor design but that doesn't mean I take everything he says as gospel. When I first called Rocna in New Zealand to learn about their anchor they emphatically recommended an all chain rode and were very happy to hear that's what we already had. The instruction sheet that came with our anchor when we picked it up in Vancouver also recommends all-chain rode.

This was some seven or eight years ago. Now if Peter Smith has since determined for himself that all-chain is not ideal or is less than ideal under certain circumstances, that's fine. I'm certainly in no position to say he's wrong.

But he's one guy. I've talked to a whole lot more people--- experienced people with way more anchoring experience than I'll ever have--- who recommend all-chain for the type of boat we have, the type of boating we do, and the kind of anchoring we encounter in this region than I have people who haven't recommended it. In fact, come to think about it, you're the only one..

So I am not about to toss out all this on-location-here experience because Smith wrote in an article what he believes is valid for his kind of boating in his area. Notice that much of his articles in the links had to do with high wind conditions and bar-tight chain. He wasn't talking much about winds in the 20-35 mph range that are what we tend to consider "high" around here. An exposed southwestern Pacific anchorage with a wind fetch of a few hundred miles and ocean swells rolling in is a wee bit different than Echo Bay on Sucia.

And about all this "weight in the anchor" bit, perhaps you can 'splain to me, Lucy, why in test after test and in real-life experience after real-life experience the Fortress is always at or near the top of the chart when it comes to holding power in the bottoms it's suited for. This for an anchor that weighs what, twenty pounds in the "big" sizes?
 
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And about all this "weight in the anchor" bit, perhaps you can 'splain to me, Lucy, why in test after test and in real-life experience after real-life experience the Fortress is always at or near the top of the chart when it comes to holding power in the bottoms it's suited for. This for an anchor that weighs what, twenty pounds in the "big" sizes?
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Size (surface area) counts so a bigger aluminum or titanium anchor will have larger surface area than a small one.

This only works IF the anchor can be set , and will actually dig into the bottom.

Most marked anchorages do not have large gravel, heavy kelp , or any of the other more difficult bottoms.
And for sure all the "tests" are done in areas where failure will only be the "other guys" equipment .Want a video of a rigged test?

Weather a fly weight will work as an emergency anchor , when required may be questionable.

Personally I would rather toss a 100lb antique Herrishoff in a quick need than rely on "modern".

FF
 
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Peter,
psneeld just posted that and if you read the links FlyWright posted you'll see that the best place for the kellet is 2/3rds to 3/4ths of the way down the rode. Not in the middle. Rex was the one that recommended the kellet to me. And I made one (only 12lbs though). The kellet is better at short scope. These aren't my opinions but that Smith guy.

Sorry Eric and psneeld. I missed the post referring to the Anchor Buddy somehow.
Actually I think both statements are correct. The kellet does add to the security of the anchor, by keeping the rode flatter to the bottom for longer, preventing the strain from being transmitted to the anchor itself for longer, but yes...if the ultimate force necessary to lift chain and kellet clear of the bottom occurs, then the fundamental holding power will be all that's left. The anchor is then having to exert a resistance force equal and opposite to the combined force exerted on the boat. Thats when you need an anchor that buries deep - real deep. However, don't forget these extremes usually don't last that long, and starting the engine and putting it in slow ahead can tide one over until things settle...
 
Perhaps anchoring is interesting because there is so much about it that is not concrete. If we were talking about what engine is most economical we need only to look at the specific fuel consumption charts for those engines and there it is. Look up the specs on your electronics and there's no question about what it can do. Hull design is a little bit art and intuition but mostly laid down by facts and numbers.

But anchor design and usage seems to be a subject that is questionable enough that anybody can have an opinion and be somewhat to considerably correct. And there are so many variables and rules of thumb that one can chase one's tail around until completely fatigued. You can say epoxy has better adhesion than _____ but you can't say one anchor is superior to another without addressing a lot of variables and those variables must be applied in degrees and even then good arguments can be made in most any direction.

There are a few tidbits of known engineering fact that pertain to anchors. One is that the concave surface has the greatest resistance to movement. The man who designed the Spade proved that. But there are a lot of modern and old anchors that do not have concave surfaces. But we know concave is best. Here come the variables. Weight, shank angle, surface area, shank length and there seems no end to it. Anchoring variables are like Murphy..... always there to turn things up side down .....or at least on their side.

Most all of us know that there are lots of anchors and they all have their good points and short comings. Some of us think that there is only one supreme anchor and one best rode but being a P type personality I like to keep my options and my mind open. And there are J types that like things decided. I like to examine things, talk about things and consider the validity of old wife's tales, rules of thumb and old axiom's like heavy is better. It's exciting to think about where these elements can lead us.

I've a lot invested in one of the lightest anchors ever made but wednesday I'm going to explore buying (only if I can get it cheap) a Dreadnought anchor ..... one of the heaviest anchors to be seen and not made for a long time. Here is a pic of a much larger one. The one I want has almost no rust. So much to explore.
 

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Size (surface area) counts so a bigger aluminum or titanium anchor will have larger surface area than a small one.....

Personally I would rather toss a 100lb antique Herrishoff in a quick need than rely on "modern".

FF

Our boat came with a big, heavy Danforth-type anchor. It wasn't made by Danforth but it was for all practical purposes identical. The Fortress we now carry on our boat as a stern anchor but is sized to be the main anchor of the boat is pretty much exactly the same size in terms of fluke area as that old, heavy Danforth-type. So no change there. Just a reduction in weight.

But I agree with you that in a storm or severe condition situation I would not want to rely on that Fortress, either. For one thing they have been known to bend fairly easily under high side loads. But I would rather have something big and heavy in severe conditions.
 
Marin wrote:
"But I agree with you that in a storm or severe condition situation I would not want to rely on that Fortress, either. For one thing they have been known to bend fairly easily under high side loads. But I would rather have something big and heavy in severe conditions."

Is'nt the Fortress the most popular anchor for hurricanes? Seems to me I've read that many times. And dos'nt the wind change directions after the eye passes over or by? One would need a lot of room on long scope or need to reposition the anchor in the eye when things go slack. I would use a Fortress if I had a big one.

" So no change there. Just a reduction in weight." I read this to say the only difference between a Fortress and an old knock off steel Danforth is weight. Can't see any other way to take it. And you read and believe anchor tests.....hard to believe.
 
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Marin wrote:

Is'nt the Fortress the most popular anchor for hurricanes?

Beats the hell out of me. I know the USCG uses Fortresses on many of their SAFE boats and such. Of course, based on what we observe around here they don't anchor those boats much so they were probably looking more for a weight reduction than high holding power. But the one complaint I have read a number of times over the years about the Fortress is how easy it can be to bend the shank if the load gets off to the side and the anchor stays buried. I've met people who've had them bend under just these circumstances

" So no change there. Just a reduction in weight." I read this to say the only difference between a Fortress and an old knock off steel Danforth is weight. Can't see any other way to take it. And you read and believe anchor tests.....hard to believe.

I bet if someone told you it was raining and you were soaked through you'd still look up to see if they were telling the truth.:) I am well aware that anchor tests can be optimized for the desired results. But they do illustrate a valid comparison under the situation defined by the test. The fact that the Fortress comes out at or near the top in terms of holding power time after time indicates something.

Is your proposal that anchor tests should be done away with entirely because every one of them is deliberately rigged? Should we all judge anchors using armchair theory alone? "Well, it looks like it ought to work good, so I'll buy one on faith that it will."

I've told you we actually didn't use anchor tests when we were looking for a replacement for out POS Bruce. We went almost exclusively on user testimonials and our own evaluation of the design. But anchor tests are one factor in determining the effectiveness of an anchor, and as such I believe they do have some value. Particularly if an effort is made to make the test impartial and simulate at least one real-world anchoring condition out of an infinite number of possible conditions.
 
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Well it's raining here today and have had much too much of that lately. Think I'll need to scrub the decks in the rain today.

Marin.......I do'nt remember saying anchor tests should be done away with ......not at all. I wish there were many more of them done by different people. More opinions and more observations. For that matter I wish more people on the forum would participate in the anchor exploring. The more people the closer we could come to reality.

Without any other qualifications I'd say the Fortress is the highest holding power anchor in the world now.

Marin wrote:
"I've told you we actually didn't use anchor tests when we were looking for a replacement for out POS Bruce. We went almost exclusively on user testimonials and our own evaluation of the design. But anchor tests are one factor in determining the effectiveness of an anchor, and as such I believe they do have some value. Particularly if an effort is made to make the test impartial and simulate at least one real-world anchoring condition out of an infinite number of possible conditions."
Give me a break. I'm 72 and have a right to forget some things. Yes I think you are right.
 
Give me a break. I'm 72 and have a right to forget some things. Yes I think you are right.

I don't judge a person's age by years. Other than when I was a little kid and birthday celebrations were a part of growing up my parents and I never celebrated or even acknowledged birthdays because they both (and I ) felt that age in years is irrelevant.

I've never met you and most likely never will so all I have to go by regarding your age is what you write. I know you've put up the occasional photo but I'm worthless at judging people's ages by their appearance so our photos have not been a factor.

In my view, I regard you as being middle-aged. Old enough to have been around the block a few times and rack up a lot of experience but young enough to have an open mind and be looking toward the future, not wallowing in a long-gone past.

If I had to attach an age in years to that I would say, what, perhaps 45-50? As far as I'm concerned your stated age of 72 years is irrelevant to the kind of person you are and to what you contribute to this world. I know or know of people (some on this forum) who regardless of their age in years strike me as being in their 90s they are so stuck in an outdated, never to be seen again past.

You are not one of those people.
 
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Here is a picture of my rope to chain splice which is necessary to use on my windlass.

What do you guys think, will this hold? It doesn't look like a good way to hold a 25000 lb boat, but it was done by a profession as directed by the windlass manual.

I know of know other way to secure this splice, but would like to get some comments.

All three strands of the rope go through the last link of the chain, right?

That's how it's done and if done correctly it retains almost all the strength of the rope. That splice is the only way you'll get a chain to rope rode to go through a typical windlass. That's how it's done and if you bought the rode from the windlass manufacturer, that's how it would be done.
 
This is pretty much an eye splice. The difference being in that a true eye splice all three strands go through the link in the same direction. With the rope to chain splice, two strands go through in one direction and the third strand goes through in the opposite direction. The weave is the same. This eliminates the bulk of a true eyesplice. It is not quite as strong as a true eyesplice, but is sufficient.
 
If anybody wants such a winch I have a big one that has chain and sprocket drive. I'd bring it to a Puget Sound TF member for $400. The hydraulic motor would probably need to be rebuilt. It's too big for Willy. See the picture at the bottom of my previous post.

Why so far away!!!:facepalm: This is exactly what I was referring to in my post about deck mounted drum winches.
 
twiisted71,
Does "Why so far away" mean you want it?
If you are interested in the winch I could put it in the container and bring it to Washington state. Do you have any idea how much it would cost to ship it slow fright to Florida? May be cost effective. This is a very powerful winch with it's chain drive. You may be better off w a direct drive model. But new they are $3000 min for a direct drive.
 
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