Replacing Anchor Chain - Suggestion on Rode

[FF]

"That'd still be 45' of chain out, at 3:1 in 10' of water (including our freeboard at the pulpit). And break out the snubbers... "



Doubling the weight of the anchor would be another choice to help stay in place.

 

[ranger58sb]

Doubling the weight of the anchor would be another choice to help stay in place.

Yep.

Happens we're at about the max weight I could lift by hand, if the windlass crapped out... but that's certainly another factor in the whole system that should be considered.

-Chris

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

I am all chain based on where I cruise, all 550 feet of it. Why? I don't trust anything else in the rocks and razor like growth on the bottom.

 

[FF]

"I'm usually the odd vessel dealing with a different swing."

For real fun, try having a multihull that is usually wind born and anchor near monohulls that get current driven.

 

[ktdtx]

Late to the posting but I would look at sources of chain in addition to West Marine--just for price.
And I would insure you weren't getting Chinese chain..I have read of strength and quality control problems.

 

[Xsbank]

I have 100' of G4 and 300' of double-braid. I almost always let out all 100' then about 25' of rope and I never need nor use a snubber.

 

[Tomas]

Check 1st Chain Supply, no shipping charges, Acco chain

Gr 40 Windlass Anchor Chain

 

[rwidman]

Someone mentioned that you would get lots of conflicting replies and so far, you have. Here's mine:

I wouldn't replace the chain just because the galvanizing is coming off. As long as the chain is structurally sound, that's several hundred dollars you don't need to spend.

If you decide to replace it anyway, make sure you use chain that is compatible with your windlass. The windlass won't work properly with the wrong sized chain. That's both the size and the style.

I'm perfectly happy with thirty feet of chain and the rest line and my windlass handles both and the splice just fine. I always have some line out and it's easy to cleat it off to a cleat I installed next to the windlass. There's no need for a bridle or snubber and setting the anchor is a piece of cake. If you decide to go with a combination of chain and line, makes sure your windlass is designed for this.

 

[Woodland Hills]

Why not just re-galvanize the existing chain?

 

[TJM]

Regalvanizing never works as well on a used product. There is too much contamination on the surface of the zinc and microstructure.

 

[Steve Bedford]

"Regalvanizing never works as well on a used product. There is too much contamination on the surface of the zinc and microstructure."

That may have been your experience but we have had great success re-galvanizing customer's chain at the shop we use to galvanize our anchors. I have not had one customer come back and state there have been problems. I believe re-galvanizing can extend the life of a good chain at a reasonable price (if included with a larger galvanizing job).

Regarding suppliers, 1st Chain Supply is good but recently, Defender has better pricing. Shop around but make sure you get chain manufacturerd by a company you are "comfortable" with.

Steve

 

[psneeld]

On a previos thread, a metals guy said to get good galvanizing, the temperature required weakened the chain.

A few internet searches seemed to have a split decision on the matter.

So if people are worried about swivels, shackles, splicing links, etc.....weakening their tackle, make dang sure you are comfy with regalvanizing.

 

[Steve Bedford]

"So if people are worried about swivels, shackles, splicing links, etc.....weakening their tackle, make dang sure you are comfy with regalvanizing."

Good advice. I have rejected some customer's chain for re-galvanizing and the company that I contract has also rejected some that I thought was okay. Re-galvanizing poor material will only waste money and provide a false sense of security. Often we have recommended cutting off a section of chain before re-galvanizing.

Going back to the original question about rode type, I use 200' of chain and 100' of nylon rode attached to the chain. I inherited the setup when I purchased the boat and it was the same as my prior boat that I designed. There are a number of reasons I like the 200' of chain and the added 100' of rode:
1. My boat likes ride flat on the water when up on plane. The weight in the bow allows for less trim tab use than without that weight. Has nothing to do with anchoring but I believe the added weight is a positive for my particular boat.
2. I normally anchor in locations that do not require the use of the nylon rode (from the look at the rode, neither did the prior owner). However, it is nice security to know the added rode length is there and available if conditions warrant.
3. I am a pretty conservative person on rode length meaning that I try to minimize risk by laying about more rode length than some others. I do not like "short scope" anchoring. However, in situations where is it best to shorten the rode length, I feel more comfortable shortening an "all chain" rode than a combination chain and nylon. I know that others may disagree with this but it goes back to what one is comfortable with. (Actually, I would rather move locations, if possible, than shorten the rode length.)

Steve

 

[Larry M]

...So if people are worried about swivels, shackles, splicing links, etc.....weakening their tackle, make dang sure you are comfy with regalvanizing.

We've had chain regalvanzed twice and an anchor once and we've been happy with the results. Chain regalvanizing needs to be shaken or tumbled so the links are welded together. Also the chain has to be prepped. If the chains been painted, to mark the depths, the paint has to be removed. I've heard that dragging the chain on a dirt behind pickup truck works well. That's cheaper than paying the company to sandblast the paint off.

Our chains were G4. We never worried about losing strength and even if we did loose a little, the chain was oversized to begin with. We also removed the swivels first. You won't get them apart after.

Not all galvanizing companies do equal quality work or can do chain, but if they can, it is a cost effective alternative to replacement imho.

 

[meridian]

I shopped the local supplier for the shrimpers. Got a price less than online and a discount for cash. Also delivered down the dock to my boat.

 

[IntoTheBlue]

I've been on my way on a 2 month trip, using a new 50' chain / 250' line set-up. I'm almost always out at least 50 ' even in shallow water and went with "no need to use a snubber" thought.
All said and done though, a much simpler and cost effective solution was staring me right in the face as I was removing the original chain. I could of just flipped the end, about 180 feet which was barely used and in good shape.