Re-galvanizing
- Thread starter meridian
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If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
sunchaser
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I'd guess the first key question is cost effectiveness vs new. Then is the job done by the right place using the best chain specific technology. Few do it to as good as new standards.
TJM
Senior Member
I surely would not do it. Galvanizing is a pretty specific process that has a few process control steps that are very important. Post plating hydrogen embrittlement heat treat to name a few. Buy new
jleonard
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I looked into re galvanizing in my area, which is Connecticut.
It was monetarily prohibitive.
Unless I could find someone willing to let me "tag along" with a heavy load that was going to be processed. Good luck with that.
The weight minimum (lot charge) was very high, so high I did not even keep the e mail correspondence.
Hope you can find a better deal in your area.
It was monetarily prohibitive.
Unless I could find someone willing to let me "tag along" with a heavy load that was going to be processed. Good luck with that.
The weight minimum (lot charge) was very high, so high I did not even keep the e mail correspondence.
Hope you can find a better deal in your area.
psneeld
Guru
This is what I remember from previous threads...maybe not here but other places....and some additional research.
Many posted that claimed to have metallurgy experience and said to do it prooerly, the chain would be weakened because of the process as described or similar by TJM.
sunchaser
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I'm one of those guys. There are ASTM and SAE protocols for chain type, required metallurgy and galvanizing conditions. It starts with a list of requirements including clean, new and pickled chain. Not easily accomplished with used chain.
Two years ago I "galvo" spray painted the first few feet of my chain. It has held up very well, shockingly well to this engineer.
Nomad Willy
Guru
I'd buy new chain and re-gal an old anchor.
I had it done.
At the time, I had a sailboat with 100' of chain and a CQR anchor that also needed a spruce-up. A friend was getting his chain and anchor re-done and to get to the minimum weight he needed to convince a few more friends to pile ours onto his. That accomplished, here is what I learned:
1 the chain had to be cleaned in a process that at the distance of 25 years, I recall as similar to being shot with a million shotgun blasts.
2 the process involved inspection after the cleaning and a redo if not clean enough.
3 The cleaning was the most expensive part of the process, but maybe the most important.
4 the re-galvanized chain looked great for the rest of the time that I owned that boat.
5 the CQR came back to me lighter than when I sent it in, as the process removed (melted) the lead weight that is part of the tip of the plow.
6 at the time, the cost was less than the cost of new chain and the look and durability were good.
7 when I got my present boat, the chain was leaving a lot of rust on deck, so I looked into doing the same thing over again. By this time the only shop in the lower mainland of BC had been shut down with the redevelopment of the south shore of False Creek and I couldn't find a shop that would do it.
8 new chain was less expensive than shipping my chain a long way to a shop that could re-galvanize, and I got to lengthen my rode.
9 20 years later, my "new" chain still looks good and my anchor still looks like it could use new galvanizing, but isn't significantly worse. (Tom, I may be interested in the spray you mention).
At the time, I had a sailboat with 100' of chain and a CQR anchor that also needed a spruce-up. A friend was getting his chain and anchor re-done and to get to the minimum weight he needed to convince a few more friends to pile ours onto his. That accomplished, here is what I learned:
1 the chain had to be cleaned in a process that at the distance of 25 years, I recall as similar to being shot with a million shotgun blasts.
2 the process involved inspection after the cleaning and a redo if not clean enough.
3 The cleaning was the most expensive part of the process, but maybe the most important.
4 the re-galvanized chain looked great for the rest of the time that I owned that boat.
5 the CQR came back to me lighter than when I sent it in, as the process removed (melted) the lead weight that is part of the tip of the plow.
6 at the time, the cost was less than the cost of new chain and the look and durability were good.
7 when I got my present boat, the chain was leaving a lot of rust on deck, so I looked into doing the same thing over again. By this time the only shop in the lower mainland of BC had been shut down with the redevelopment of the south shore of False Creek and I couldn't find a shop that would do it.
8 new chain was less expensive than shipping my chain a long way to a shop that could re-galvanize, and I got to lengthen my rode.
9 20 years later, my "new" chain still looks good and my anchor still looks like it could use new galvanizing, but isn't significantly worse. (Tom, I may be interested in the spray you mention).
We've re-galvanized anchor chain twice. In both cases, the galvanizing lasted about 80% of new quality chain at ~25% of the cost.
We replaced our chain last year instead of re-galvanizing. The facility in north FL didn't have the shaker/tumbler for chain. The manager warned me that links would be galvanized together and I would have to break them apart. He also said, since we have been painting the chain, they would have to charge us to sand blast the paint off as part of the prep. We have a friend with a Port Supply account and went with Accor chain.
We replaced our chain last year instead of re-galvanizing. The facility in north FL didn't have the shaker/tumbler for chain. The manager warned me that links would be galvanized together and I would have to break them apart. He also said, since we have been painting the chain, they would have to charge us to sand blast the paint off as part of the prep. We have a friend with a Port Supply account and went with Accor chain.
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sunchaser
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Keith
Spray can is on the boat and I'm not, can't remember the name. Somewhere around 90% Zn. I bought it at All Bay in Sidney. Home Depot in US sells similar stuff. It took about a week for it to get to the point it wouldn't flake off then it became tenacious - EMFs at work.
Try it on your anchor too, I did on our old one and same decent result after about 10 anchorings; until I got a new Vulcan.
psneeld
Guru
I have never had any luck with spray cold galvanizing.....never seems as hard as hot dip...scratches off easily....but does retard rust till scratched.
Just because someone will do it and it looks great...doesn't mean it has retained it's strength....going only by what is being posred, not what I have experience with.
Then again..till anyone rides out a hurricane on their chain.....it could be the strength of fluff and most of us would never know.
Just because someone will do it and it looks great...doesn't mean it has retained it's strength....going only by what is being posred, not what I have experience with.
Then again..till anyone rides out a hurricane on their chain.....it could be the strength of fluff and most of us would never know.
jleonard
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I've used both the galvanizing spray and the brush on. The brush on lasts longer.
But the best is regular rustoleum "aluminum" (silver) paint. Lasts as long and looks shiny.
But the best is regular rustoleum "aluminum" (silver) paint. Lasts as long and looks shiny.
DHeckrotte
Guru
ZRC, a brand of cold galvanizing paints. Available in brush on or spray. Other brands available. Zinc Rich Coatings. Pretty obviously contains something heavy!
Apparently suitable for galvanizing repair when galvanized parts are specified by architects, etc. You'll occasionally see obvious use on highway structures, and for example, hand rails welded up from galvanized pipe. I always wondered how it could work like galvanizing since surely there is less electrical connection between the steel and the zinc.
I've used both spray and brush-on with some success. I can't imagine using it for chain; how could you get the chain clean enough, the coverage adequate, and undamaged where the links lie together while drying? Think it would be fine for the anchor.
Apparently suitable for galvanizing repair when galvanized parts are specified by architects, etc. You'll occasionally see obvious use on highway structures, and for example, hand rails welded up from galvanized pipe. I always wondered how it could work like galvanizing since surely there is less electrical connection between the steel and the zinc.
I've used both spray and brush-on with some success. I can't imagine using it for chain; how could you get the chain clean enough, the coverage adequate, and undamaged where the links lie together while drying? Think it would be fine for the anchor.
Steve Bedford
Senior Member
Most of these recommendations are accurate and the cautiionary advice is good.
"Unless I could find someone willing to let me "tag along" with a heavy load that was going to be processed. Good luck with that."
We offer this service when we take our newly manufacturerd anchors to get galvanized the first time. Any of our customers who can get me their anchor or chain can tag on to our galvanizing order. Because of the significant total weight, we pass on the savings to the customer. It really is cost prohibitive if you are a customer with one item. Good, reputable galvanizing shops do this all the time and the results are excellent. Good shops use a combination of steps to clean, remove rust, and prepare the product for hot dipped galvanizing. Good companies will also tell you when the chain is not worth re-galvanized. Good companies also are very effective in vibrating/shaking the chain while drying and not having a pile or lump of galvanized chain.
Steve Bedford
"Unless I could find someone willing to let me "tag along" with a heavy load that was going to be processed. Good luck with that."
We offer this service when we take our newly manufacturerd anchors to get galvanized the first time. Any of our customers who can get me their anchor or chain can tag on to our galvanizing order. Because of the significant total weight, we pass on the savings to the customer. It really is cost prohibitive if you are a customer with one item. Good, reputable galvanizing shops do this all the time and the results are excellent. Good shops use a combination of steps to clean, remove rust, and prepare the product for hot dipped galvanizing. Good companies will also tell you when the chain is not worth re-galvanized. Good companies also are very effective in vibrating/shaking the chain while drying and not having a pile or lump of galvanized chain.
Steve Bedford
O C Diver
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I regalvanized my chain (370') and my Bruce anchor. In spite of a spinner shaker basket, still had to break loose 1/3 of the links. Once you develop the technique, it goes fairly quickly. Chain and anchor look great. Wouldn't do it again. I'll never reach it's break point before something else fails, but I have considered how strong it may be now. Next time I will sell and buy new.
Ted
Ted
