Re-Galvanize Spade Anchor

[eheffa]

Hi all.

I am very happy with the performance of our Spade S120 steel anchor: Quick to set and no dragging after many nights out in all sorts of weather.

But, the galvanizing is not great and now after 3 ½ years and probably >150 sets, I have many areas of bare steel that rusts over very readily. It’s mostly a cosmetic issue but I don’t like to see the rust.

I’ve tried cold galvanizing spray paint but it’s not at all durable & scuffs off very quickly.

Has anyone on this forum had experience with re-galvanizing their Spade anchor? I understand that the lead in the tip has to be melted out & replaced after the galvanizing or else the anchor becomes useless.

Any thoughts or accounts of your own experience with the Spade appreciated.

- evan

 

[psneeld]

I too have had poor luck with spray on galvanizing.


Next step try liquid galvanizing painted on.


There is supposedly a cold galvanizing primer that gives better adhesion...can find the name right now.


Last try will be a zinc based primer...but not necessarily cold galvanizing unless the pint on is better than the spray and a whole anchor coating of a hard epoxy paint.

 

[eheffa]

I too have had poor luck with spray on galvanizing.


Next step try liquid galvanizing painted on.


There is supposedly a cold galvanizing primer that gives better adhesion...can find the name right now.


Last try will be a zinc based primer...but not necessarily cold galvanizing unless the pint on is better than the spray and a whole anchor coating of a hard epoxy paint.

Thanks.

I've wondered whether stripping off all loose coating and priming followed by painting with a 2 part Epoxy might be a better long-term solution...

-evan

 

[Ken E.]

Maybe Eric on Nomad Willy will chime in on this, but if the above solutions don't pan out for you, Seattle Galvanizing is a hot-dip operation. They are now in Mt Vernon WA.
Www.seattlegalvanizing.com. I've used them before, years ago on a boat trailer which turned out well and wasn't terribly expensive.

 

[psneeld]

There are articles floating around the internet discussing the pros and cons of re-hot dip Galvanizing....


I remember one saying to get the anchor hot enough, you loose too much strength in critical parts...now how this is different than original manufacture I don't know.

 

[GH41]

I can't imagine any paint resisting the abrasion an anchor is subjected to for very long. Seattle Galvanizing minimum charge is $150. Not sure that would include dealing with the lead. Add shipping to that. Not sure I would put $200 +/- in a $500 anchor knowing it would likely look the same as it does now in another 150 sets. I am pretty anal but not that anal.

 

[Mischief Managed]

Try contacting the anchor maker and see if they will help. I am aware of one well-known anchor maker replacing an anchor that had worn out plating.

 

[Pete Meisinger]

Could it be "chromed"?

pete

 

[BruceK]

Sarca builds both Super Sarca and Excel in gal and 316 stainless, and the Excel in alloy as well. I thought ss was just for "bling" but maybe not. I`ve heard of issues about stainless underwater, nothing is simple, but it would avoid the rust problem.

 

[Sidclark]

In case you missed it over at Cruiser's Forum....

Have you contacted Spade directly? From my experience they have awesome customer service. I bent the shank on my 120, totally my fault and they sent me a new anchor. All I had to do was send the old one back. I'd give them a call...

 

[Lepke]

You can buy a zinc stick that is melted with a torch at most welding supply stores. 1 foot of 1/8" zinc wire is about $8 on Amazon. Zinc melts at under 800°F. It helps to grind or sand the areas first and preheat the metal. A rough surface bonds better. Wire brush hard to get spaces. You can use a hobby propane torch. MAPP gas works a little better (hotter-faster). Or oxy-act.
You get the metal hot and melt the zinc into the existing coating and cover the bare spot. Slow melting of the zinc rod leaves a thicker coat.

 

[Nomad Willy]

Maybe Eric on Nomad Willy will chime in on this, but if the above solutions don't pan out for you, Seattle Galvanizing is a hot-dip operation. They are now in Mt Vernon WA.
Www.seattlegalvanizing.com. I've used them before, years ago on a boat trailer which turned out well and wasn't terribly expensive.

Thanks Ken,
I would take it to Seattle and Scott Galvanizing. Just off 15th ave NW and just west of the Ballard Bridge. On Leary Way I think.
When I worked at Everett Engineering (Everett) we always went to Scott G. For hot dip galvanizing.
You could get a new and similar but much better Excel anchor and subtract the cost of galvanizing from the price. Ground Tackle Marine in Sidney BC.
If Seattle Galvanizing is in Mt. Vernon I’m real close and may be able to help w logistics. I’ll PM you my ph#.

 

[Jay N]

Thanks Ken,
I would take it to Seattle and Scott Galvanizing. Just off 15th ave NW and just west of the Ballard Bridge. On Leary Way I think.
When I worked at Everett Engineering (Everett) we always went to Scott G. For hot dip galvanizing.
You could get a new and similar but much better Excel anchor and subtract the cost of galvanizing from the price. Ground Tackle Marine in Sidney BC.
If Seattle Galvanizing is in Mt. Vernon I’m real close and may be able to help w logistics. I’ll PM you my ph#.

Eric/Ken, Scott Galvanizing has moved out of Ballard to Arlington, WA and is now known as Seattle Galvanizing.

I just had several lengths of chain re-galvanized by Emerald Galvanizing in West Fremont, they have a centrifuge that works with chain. Seattle Galvanizing doesn't do chain anymore, but they will probably do an anchor.

Jay

 

[menzies]

See post #41 here.

http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s3/slowly-getting-through-pre-season-projects-42629-3.html

 

[eheffa]

Thanks everyone for your input.

There is a lot of interesting and useful feedback here.

I appreciate the contacts in Washington State for galvanizing outfits but we do have some galvanizing businesses closer by on this side of the border that I could check out.

I'm concerned though that the lead in the tip would require special treatment for hot dip galvanizing and wondered if anyone on the forum has gone that route and been happy with their results?

When I last contacted the Spade rep, he was going to send me their repainting kit but then a few months later was told they no longer provide these kits as the results were not satisfactory. I should maybe reconnect with them and ask their advice...

-evan

 

[BruceK]

I recall using Galvafroid, a cold galvanizing paint,but it was on rally cars, not anchors.
There are paints like POR used for converting rusty surfaces to a hard finish which excludes air and fixes rust. Could be an epoxy as touched on above. Might be worth researching to discover wear characteristics.

 

[DDW]

On the Spade you can remove the shank and just have the fluke done. That should mitigate any concerns about heating the shank. The lead is in the fluke, so it still has to be dealt with.

 

[jleonard]

I investigated getting an anchor re galvanized in the Ct area a few years ago. It was cost prohibitive because they required a minimum weight batch. They would not mx with another small batch (I think the min was 700 pounds).
I just re-paint mine every few years either with zinc or silver rustoleum.

 

[Nomad Willy]

eheffa,
You could call Chris at Ground Tackle Marine 250 516 7888.
I’m sure he knows where all the local galvanizers are.
He’s right down the street from you.

But the heat may be too much for the lead.

You could try some POR-15. I’ve used it 5-6 times but don’t recall using it in an abrasive enviro. If you get it pay close attention to the instructions for re-sealing the can.

 

[eheffa]

eheffa,
You could call Chris at Ground Tackle Marine 250 516 7888.
I’m sure he knows where all the local galvanizers are.
He’s right down the street from you.

Thanks very much Eric.

I will do that.

much obliged...

 

[GH41]

You can buy a zinc stick that is melted with a torch at most welding supply stores. 1 foot of 1/8" zinc wire is about $8 on Amazon. Zinc melts at under 800°F. It helps to grind or sand the areas first and preheat the metal. A rough surface bonds better. Wire brush hard to get spaces. You can use a hobby propane torch. MAPP gas works a little better (hotter-faster). Or oxy-act.
You get the metal hot and melt the zinc into the existing coating and cover the bare spot. Slow melting of the zinc rod leaves a thicker coat.

Are you kidding or serious?

 

[Mako]

Very good ideas.

BTW, although paint (even 2-part epoxy) wears off, I liked painting my anchor because it helped to shed nasty mud nice and easily. Plus it looked cooler than galvanized.

 

[eheffa]

You can buy a zinc stick that is melted with a torch at most welding supply stores. 1 foot of 1/8" zinc wire is about $8 on Amazon. Zinc melts at under 800°F. It helps to grind or sand the areas first and preheat the metal. A rough surface bonds better. Wire brush hard to get spaces. You can use a hobby propane torch. MAPP gas works a little better (hotter-faster). Or oxy-act.
You get the metal hot and melt the zinc into the existing coating and cover the bare spot. Slow melting of the zinc rod leaves a thicker coat.

The more I look into this idea, the better I like the it as many of the most glaring areas of rust are due to nicks and gouges where spot treatment might just do the trick. Being able to lay down some Zinc on these areas and restore the protection might be a good solution.

Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[eheffa]

eheffa,
You could call Chris at Ground Tackle Marine 250 516 7888.
I’m sure he knows where all the local galvanizers are.
He’s right down the street from you.

But the heat may be too much for the lead.

You could try some POR-15. I’ve used it 5-6 times but don’t recall using it in an abrasive enviro. If you get it pay close attention to the instructions for re-sealing the can.

I had a very enlightening and interesting conversation with Chris. Thank you for the suggestion.

He suggested I contact Spade & so have an email out to them to see what they suggest.

-evan

 

[Lepke]

Are you kidding or serious?

Touching up galvanized gear with new zinc has been going on since torches were invented. I've been doing it since the 1960s.

 

[eheffa]

Touching up galvanized gear with new zinc has been going on since torches were invented. I've been doing it since the 1960s.

I've looked on Amazon & all I see are aluminum / Zinc Rods. Do you have a link to the pure Zinc or are these the ones you recommend?

https://www.amazon.ca/Blue-Demon-BD...+stick+brazing+rod&qid=1578449686&s=hi&sr=1-5

-evan

 

[psneeld]

Touching up galvanized gear with new zinc has been going on since torches were invented. I've been doing it since the 1960s.

If it isn't written about in a recent boating magazine by some prolific writer or addressed by ABYC....it doesn't exist to most boaters.

 

[Nomad Willy]

Anybody powder coated their anchor?
In the past there was a time when powder coating propellers was somewhat popular. Powder Coaters came to the boat shows but obviously PC props faded out.
But for anchors that have low temp stuff like lead PC would not be an option. 400f is just too hot.
I’ve modified anchors w J-B Weld applied in places so galvanizing or PC is no option for them either.

But the vast majority of anchors are 100% steel.
Any anchor coating would need very good adhesion and abrasion resistance. I think PC would be viable and perhaps POR-15. Anybody done it ... either?

 

[rslifkin]

I'd think POR or other epoxy or paint would make sense, as it could be touched up easily or have extra coats added to keep up with wear. Powder coat doesn't have that luxury.

 

[Nomad Willy]

rslifkin,
Could you be more detailed about powder coating shortcomings?