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11-24-2018, 09:33 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
City: Rapid City, SD heading back to the PNW
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 212
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I have a large round float with a carabineer attached, that I can snap to the end of the chain when I have to release it, so that I'll be able to find it again.
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11-24-2018, 07:23 PM
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#22
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Guru
City: Ingleside-On-The-Bay, Texas
Vessel Name: Papillon
Vessel Model: 1978 Mainship 34 Trawler #95
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 643
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Is that a really big float that will support the chain???
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11-24-2018, 11:14 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
City: Rapid City, SD heading back to the PNW
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 212
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If the depth is over 50 feet I'll attach the nylon rode to the chain.
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11-25-2018, 05:48 AM
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#24
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Guru
City: Ft Pierce
Vessel Name: Sold
Vessel Model: Was an Albin/PSN 40
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 28,147
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Assuming everything is handy and you have the time.
Everytime I have heard of someone letting everything go, they were scared shi**less and even cutting the line took too long.
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11-25-2018, 08:25 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
City: Rapid City, SD heading back to the PNW
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 212
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I have the float and rode already made up. If things go wrong I just snap the rope to the change and let it go.
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11-25-2018, 09:32 AM
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#26
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TF Site Team
City: Saltspring Island
Vessel Name: Retreat
Vessel Model: C&L 44
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 5,663
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psneeld
Assuming everything is handy and you have the time.
Everytime I have heard of someone letting everything go, they were scared shi**less and even cutting the line took too long.
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A "Man Overboard" mark on the GPS worked well for a friend in the Broughtons a few years ago. When he went back months later with a diver, the MOB mark made finding and recovering his anchor and chain a simple task. Luckily it wasn't too deep.
__________________
Keith
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11-25-2018, 12:15 PM
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#27
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Guru
City: Ft Pierce
Vessel Name: Sold
Vessel Model: Was an Albin/PSN 40
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 28,147
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As I posted, the only times I have heard of dropping the whole rig was ....
Either all the time in the world where snapping on lines or hitting MOBs is possible, or it is a panic where rational thought is a distant memory for most.
That's why I have light line connecting the chain so it can part on it's own if I want it to, rather than heavy line that ALWAYS needs to be cut.
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11-26-2018, 06:43 PM
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#28
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Guru
City: Gig Harbor
Vessel Name: Kinship
Vessel Model: North Pacific 43
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 9,046
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psneeld
As I posted, the only times I have heard of dropping the whole rig was ....
Either all the time in the world where snapping on lines or hitting MOBs is possible, or it is a panic where rational thought is a distant memory for most.
That's why I have light line connecting the chain so it can part on it's own if I want it to, rather than heavy line that ALWAYS needs to be cut.
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That is a really good point. I think I used 5/8" 3-strand, but I can't recall now. It could have been 1/2". In thinking about it, all the 5/8" would do is give me something that takes longer to cut. I'm not expecting the line to hold the boat.
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11-27-2018, 06:16 AM
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#29
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TF Site Team
City: Seneca Lake NY
Vessel Name: Bacchus
Vessel Model: MS 34 HT Trawler
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 7,826
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I'm in the process of adding more chain to my nylon anchor rode. I decided to reverse the ride as it had some wear & tear. Also decided rather than cut off all of the prior 15 ft of chain I left a short run and use a carabiner to attach the new bitter end. No knife or cutting read just unsnap and snap onto another line, fender, etc in an emergengy.
__________________
Don
2008 MS 34 HT Trawler
"Bacchus"
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11-27-2018, 06:34 AM
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#30
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Guru
City: Ft Pierce
Vessel Name: Sold
Vessel Model: Was an Albin/PSN 40
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 28,147
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Being able to release under load might be worth considering.
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11-27-2018, 07:14 AM
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#31
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TF Site Team
City: Seneca Lake NY
Vessel Name: Bacchus
Vessel Model: MS 34 HT Trawler
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 7,826
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psneeld
Being able to release under load might be worth considering.
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With a windlass and Sampson post I never intend to have tension on the bitter end. But you raise a good point to be considered and avoided.
__________________
Don
2008 MS 34 HT Trawler
"Bacchus"
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11-27-2018, 09:53 AM
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#32
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Guru
City: Seattle
Vessel Name: Sea Bear
Vessel Model: Kadey-Krogen 54
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 752
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I use a thin piece of Amsteel long enough to be cut easily from up top. That said I’m also moving up to 700ft of 1/2g43 up from 350ft so will find a creative spot to store bolt cutters if I do need to cut. I love the floating line idea, might consider that.
__________________
Kadey-Krogen 54
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11-27-2018, 12:43 PM
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#33
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Guru
City: Gig Harbor
Vessel Name: Kinship
Vessel Model: North Pacific 43
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 9,046
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arthurc
I use a thin piece of Amsteel long enough to be cut easily from up top. That said I’m also moving up to 700ft of 1/2g43 up from 350ft so will find a creative spot to store bolt cutters if I do need to cut. I love the floating line idea, might consider that.
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Not sure the floating line idea is all that helpful if you are anchoring at depths that would require 700' of chain. You would need a very long length of poly line.
I've not thought of using Amsteel as an attachment. It certainly would work. When I cut it, I usually use a very sharp ceramic blade. While I have one on board, I think I'll stick with nylon as it is easily cut by any of the steel blades I have on board or in my pocket.
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11-27-2018, 12:57 PM
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#34
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Guru
City: Seattle
Vessel Name: Sea Bear
Vessel Model: Kadey-Krogen 54
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 752
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I find cutting amsteel is pretty easy with the rigging knives I use, but nylon works just as well.
I don’t actually anchor in places needing 700ft it’s more that my windlass only handles one very large chain locker, so I have two Rocna 55kg anchors on the bow, one connected one not, if I get an anchor stuck I’ll cut the chain, attach to a float and reconnect the remaining to the 2nd anchor.
__________________
Kadey-Krogen 54
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11-27-2018, 01:35 PM
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#35
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Guru
City: Gig Harbor
Vessel Name: Kinship
Vessel Model: North Pacific 43
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 9,046
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arthurc
I find cutting amsteel is pretty easy with the rigging knives I use, but nylon works just as well.
I don’t actually anchor in places needing 700ft it’s more that my windlass only handles one very large chain locker, so I have two Rocna 55kg anchors on the bow, one connected one not, if I get an anchor stuck I’ll cut the chain, attach to a float and reconnect the remaining to the 2nd anchor.
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That makes sense.
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11-27-2018, 09:38 PM
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#36
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Veteran Member
City: San Francisco
Vessel Name: Voyager
Vessel Model: Universal 39' Europa Trawler
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 96
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Thank you
Thank you, everyone, for your replies and ideas on this thread. I realize that I could probably find guidance in Chapmans but being lazy, I am hugely thankful for this open discussion and sharing of knowledge.
Warf
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11-28-2018, 12:13 AM
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#37
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Guru
City: LaConner
Vessel Model: 34' CHB
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 1,257
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The surveyor alerted me to the fact that the chain was not attached to anything in the locker when I bought this boat, so secured the end with a good chunk of line to a ring bolt at bottom of the post.
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11-28-2018, 08:05 AM
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#38
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Guru
City: Alexandria, VA
Vessel Model: 2000 Wellcraft
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,467
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhays
I have a hard point in my anchor locker and when I bought the boat the PO had shackled the end of the chain to it.
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My current boat was set up the same way when I bought it. I remember it taking about twenty minutes to get the seized up shackle loose with a scewdriver and a pair of pliars and thinking how much fun it would have been to do that in a pitching anchorage off a lee shore in a blow.
We now have ten feet of heavy nylon between the hard point and the bitter end of the anchor chain and a serrated edge knife affixed to the inside of the dockbox on the bow.
We also have a float and fifty feet of line with a snap shackle on the end of it in that locker. This finally, after having lost two sets of anchor and chain over the years that had to be cast off.
We use a small cheap float, as we had our large expensive float cut off and stolen last year when we dropped the chain due to a malfunctioning windless and had to grapple in 25 feet of water for four hours to retrieve it later.
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11-28-2018, 08:17 AM
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#39
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Senior Member
City: Rapid City, SD heading back to the PNW
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 212
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G9, IMHO you are on the same track that I'm on.
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11-28-2018, 10:57 AM
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#40
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TF Site Team
City: California Delta
Vessel Name: FlyWright
Vessel Model: 1977 Marshall Californian 34 LRC
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 13,728
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psneeld
Or attach it with 50 to 75 feet of bright floating line...
That way if you cut it and it gets away from you before you get a bouy on it, you may still see enough line to retrieve it later.
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Same here...I've got 100 ft of poly cord at the end of my 360 ft rode that can be released as needed and the line will float on the surface for retrieval.
Quote:
Originally Posted by warfdog
The last 15’ of chain is painted red so no need for indicators- I like the floating line idea since most water I navigate is fairly shallow. I think that the average depth of SF Bay is about 4’, and the Sacramento delta is about the same
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I know you're kidding about the 4 ft depth but it reminds me of a CA Delta anchoring lesson that has served me well. I was told to always anchor in water depths of 15 ft or greater. Anything shallower has too many weeds to allow a good hold to the bottom.
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