Power setting the anchor

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Hi All,For what it is worth over twenty two years of anchor design ,testing and manufacturing not mention 30 years of boating...
Regards Rex
Hi Rex, Good to have you posting. I hope you are back to your usual good health.
 
I suspect that the amount of power used for setting should be usually dependent on the scope used during the setting process. Applying a lot of power to set may work well w long scope and as one shortens up less and less power would be positively effective. Eventually the scope would be so short the anchor would dependably break out w any tension on the rode.

But still setting rather slowly is clearly superior to dragging the anchor along the bottom briskly.
 
Yes hi Bruce,

Back on the horse, thanks for your concern.

Rgards Rex.
 
Hi All,

For what it is worth over twenty two years of anchor design ,testing and manufacturing not mention 30 years of boating.

My answer is based on observation, weed over mud --soft, if you drop your anchor and then power down to set, in many cases you will rip out a clod of weed and mud, this weed will continue to ball up resulting in a non set, or a set that wont lock up but gives you enough confidence to trust it—during the night only then if you break out you will know whether or not you have made the right decision, yes sometimes you can be lucky powering down slicing through the weed resulting in a good lock up.

Based on the best average I have observed take it easy, drop your anchor whilst backing down, if you know it is weed and mud apply very light throttle and see how you go.

If you Know it is going to blow the milk out of your coffee during the night then don’t anchor in these areas, avoid them if possible or keep anchor watch.

Sandy surface by all means back down if you want to lock up, there is no need from what I have observed to over do this, but it will ensure you do not have something snagged on the toe.

Regards Rex

Things to think about whatever technique you use.

I guess not all "professional mariner" circles think exactly the same...or are able to communicate it exactly the same in forums.

In my circle of coworkers and aquaintences...the average cruiser that anchors 50 time a year or more probably has WAY more experience at anchoring (and in different situation) than many professional/commercial captains I know. If we do it on our own boats...I really don't see that as the purview of "the professional mariner"....
 
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Where does one find an anchorage that 6 or 7 to 1 scope can be used safely? Mud flats low tidal range I guess. And full power backing down - :lol::lol::lol:

In the areas that have big tides think for a moment about setting in 40 feet at high tide and then a 15 foot drop occurs. I much prefer a big anchor and 3:1 and then watch for dragging if the wind picks up. The most scope I've used is 5:1 in 30 knot gusts with all chain and a big Bruce.

On this thread it would seem the Aussies have anchoring 101 figured out. Also I thought Aussies played Chesterfield rugby?
 
On this thread it would seem the Aussies have anchoring 101 figured out.

Maybe, probably no better than any other place, but we might have easier access to some better anchors.

Also I thought Aussies played Chesterfield rugby?

This last bit has me confused. We play Rugby League, and Rugby Union, (the original), but Chesterfield Rugby…? Please explain...
 
Where does one find an anchorage that 6 or 7 to 1 scope can be used safely? Mud flats low tidal range I guess. And full power backing down - :lol::lol::lol:

Interested in knowing what areas you anchor in that you ask that question. We have anchored just about everywhere east of the Mississippi in North America and many places in the islands and have in general had plenty of room for scope. I can name a few where that was not the case chiefly because the anchorage is always packed with boats. Will admit that standing orders from the Admiral are to anchor at the back of the pack.

In the PNW the water was frequently so deep that we didn't have enough rode for a big scope.
 
Marty,
Tom boats in the PNW and I fully agree w him.

Now that we're not in Alaska ....
So many boats and soo few anchorages.

And Marty lots of skippers have short rodes and most of them are all chain for obvious reasons. When the engine quits and your being blown to shore a short chain rode has limitations. I've got 435' (mostly nylon) and there could come a day when I would want more.
 
I have 320hp cats and use about 2000rpm on just one anchor. With my 105 mantas. I fear pulling the pulpit off with any more power
 
WE stop the boats fwd motion at the desired spot and lower the anchor and pay out about 3x scope.
A tiny hit in reverse gets the boat backing , if the wind or current has not.

When the boat hits the anchor line and the bow swings into the wind , one can tell if the boat is dragging.

Pay out whatever scope is desired , and shut down.
There is no extra engine pull to bury the anchor unless Hurricane flags are flying.
The stern anchor is deployed , lead to the bow , the Black Ball is hoisted and the LED anchor light is lit.

Then a cold Ballentine Ale or Becks is broken out.
 
WE stop the boats fwd motion at the desired spot and lower the anchor and pay out about 3x scope.
A tiny hit in reverse gets the boat backing , if the wind or current has not.

When the boat hits the anchor line and the bow swings into the wind , one can tell if the boat is dragging.

Pay out whatever scope is desired , and shut down.
There is no extra engine pull to bury the anchor unless Hurricane flags are flying.
The stern anchor is deployed , lead to the bow , the Black Ball is hoisted and the LED anchor light is lit.

Then a cold Ballentine Ale or Becks is broken out.


Works for me
 
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