Maxwell not turning chainwheel?

[wkearney99]

So, why does your back hurt this morning?

Hand-over-hand retrieval of chain and anchor gives you quite the work out. Thankfully at 9' deep it was a shallow anchorage so my usual 5:1 scope wasn't too much. But, oy, it was a chore. Upside though, overnight anchoring on the Corsica River was pleasant.

No idea what's going on yet, as I didn't have an opportunity to tear it down this weekend. The symptom is it'll turn the capstan drum but not the chainwheel. It's an electric Maxwell 2200 VWC. Tightening the clutch nut did nothing to get the chainwheel to grab. The drum is above the clutch for the chainwheel. The drum #42 has a key #31 engaging in into the shaft, so the clutch doesn't affect it. The upper (outer) clutch cone spins free on the shaft. It's the pressure of the clutch nut pushing down that engages enough pressure on the clutch cones to make the chainwheel turn.

Attached is a picture from disassembling it last season to service it, and the parts diagram. In the picture you can just make out the top of the key sticking out above the lower (inner) cone.

I'm thinking #32, the key for the lower clutch cone must have sheared?

Anyone else run into a similar problem with a Maxwell windlass?

 

[4fun1]

My thinking is that that key is for the clutch, not the chain wheel. The chain wheel should be free wheeling and not attached to the shaft. Just my simple brain.

 

[wkearney99]

My thinking is that that key is for the clutch, not the chain wheel. The chain wheel should be free wheeling and not attached to the shaft.

Yes, that was my understanding also. The drum is fixed by the top key. The upper cone spins free, as does the chainwheel. The lower cone is fixed by another key. The fact that the top drum turns tells me the motor is working and that the problem is not likely in the gearbox.

 

[menzies]

My Maxwell is currently dissembled awaiting parts. While investigating the issue I found a couple of YouTube videos that discuss broken keys - it does sound like that is your issue.

Though if the key broke and stayed in the slot it would still turn the gypsy/wildcat. If somehow it broke and came out of the slot that would give you what you see.

 

[4fun1]

Yes, that was my understanding also. The drum is fixed by the top key. The upper cone spins free, as does the chainwheel. The lower cone is fixed by another key. The fact that the top drum turns tells me the motor is working and that the problem is not likely in the gearbox.

I wonder if both clutch keys are bad or the clutches are bad. I would think that if at least one key is in place that the pressure alone from tightening the clutch would spin the wheel.

 

[wkearney99]

I wonder if both clutch keys are bad or the clutches are bad. I would think that if at least one key is in place that the pressure alone from tightening the clutch would spin the wheel.

There's only one clutch with a key, the bottom one. The top one has no key, it spins free until pressure from above pushes it into the chainwheel. The top key is good, as the drum turns. The bottom key is good as the shaft turns. It's the third middle key that seems to be the likely point of concern.

Until I get back to the boat I won't know for sure. I'm just hoping it's just the key that failed. Not the groove in the shaft or the lower clutch cone.

 

[wkearney99]

Though if the key broke and stayed in the slot it would still turn the gypsy/wildcat. If somehow it broke and came out of the slot that would give you what you see.

I haven't spied any shavings or chunks of anything having come loose from it. At least not up on deck.

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

Give Maxwell a call. Their tech guys were very helpful to me.

Maxwell

 

[menzies]

Yep, ask for Will.

 

[wkearney99]

Yep, ask for Will.

That the guy with the mustache? I think we met at the Annapolis show. He was VERY helpful in resolving my previous issue where the chain splitter wouldn't fit. Someone in it's previous life reassembled it wrong (thinking it was a rev 2 vs rev 1 model). Sorted it right out.

 

[Flatswing]

I assume you tightened the clutch on the winch with the bar (#41)? - with it loose, the motor drives the capstan but not the chain gypsy (also allows the anchor to free fall). when tight both the drum & the chain gypsy are locked to the motor

 

[wkearney99]

Yep, I've got the #41 bar. Which must be made of unobtanium to justify the price they gouge for it.

But it does work, you can really get a lot of added leverage with it. You are correct that if the top clutch nut is loose the shaft will only turn the drum. It's only the downward pressure of the clutch nut compressing the two upper/lower cones in on the chainwheel that will make it turn.

I'm headed to the boat today, for shvitsn in predicted +96F heat. I may be in luck, as I seem to recall finding a bar of metal in the various extra pieces that came with the boat. Like it might have been a shaft key. Which, in reading of others with Windlass problems, might be considered a very useful spare to have on board. We'll see.

 

[wkearney99]

Managed to get to the boat yesterday and made progress diagnosing the problem. This video shows the problem:

Underneath:

Topside:

The shaft is coming up out of the gearbox, due to the bottom circlip (shown in the above diagram as part# 34) having corroded and fallen off. There's enough upward movement to allow the shaft to rise and the key to spin past the lower clutch cone.

I'm going to get on the phone with Maxwell to find out if replacing it will solve the problem.

Sorry for the poor quality of the video and this picture. The only access to the underside of the windlass is down in from some deck hatches and then into the chain locker. I had to hope my phone was pointing in the right direction because I can't get myself far enough in there to see it directly.

 

[wkearney99]

After an e-mail exchange with Will at Maxwell, I've got the #4 circlips and and #32 split rings on order, hopefully here by Friday (Maxwell is local near BWI airport).

 

[twistedtree]

Excellent news. I seem to recall hearing about that clip rusting and failing on another boat, but I don't recall the specifics.

 

[sunchaser]

Excellent news. I seem to recall hearing about that clip rusting and failing on another boat, but I don't recall the specifics.

It happened on mine a few years ago. Dirt, grime and corrosion. The secret is to follow the Maxwell service intervals which I was negligent on. I'd consider the circlips throw away items every 4 years or so on the vertical units.

An anchor windlass repair guy told me to grease them several times per season, kinda like the old style boat trailer bearings. This I now do too.

 

[High Wire]

Great diagnosis capt. I can't imagine the force needed to shear a key like that! Maybe if it were made of lead.

 

[wkearney99]

It happened on mine a few years ago. Dirt, grime and corrosion. The secret is to follow the Maxwell service intervals which I was negligent on. I'd consider the circlips throw away items every 4 years or so on the vertical units.

An anchor windlass repair guy told me to grease them several times per season, kinda like the old style boat trailer bearings. This I now do too.

Now that I know there's an exposed circlip down there, yes, it'll be a regular sevice item (and I'll keep a spare aboard). I've paid attention to the grease recommendations already.

Now I'm just awaiting the parts.

 

[IRENE]

We had a corroded circlip on ours the first time I had it out when we purchased the boat. It actually broke/failed as I was removing the gearbox...but I didn’t figure it out until the thing was removed and I found the rusted bits in the locker.

I just took our gearbox out yesterday, and the circlip replaced about 2 years ago looked good and was still coated in grease. The oil looked dirtier than I expected when drained. The oil plug (clear one) was broken, possibly from over tightening.

The topside bits looked good, with no broken or worn parts, and all remained coated in grease.

Reason for removal - the gearbox has wept oil since I “resealed” it 2 years ago. I need to call Maxwell this week to figure out what I did wrong or missed.

Any and all advice welcomed. Not trying to hijack the thread...

 

[wkearney99]

Any and all advice welcomed. Not trying to hijack the thread...

No worries, as changing the gearbox oil is probably next on my list. Did you change it while it was in place in the boat, or did it necessitate removing it entirely?

 

[IRENE]

I removed it from the boat, which I think is necessary. It was a pain the first time, but it’s pretty simple now. This evening I removed seals and separated the gearbox to inspect and clean. Next will be new seals, followed by sealing and mating the gearbox, then filling oil in a few days after the sealant dries.

Will from Maxwell gave me a series of detailed instructions by phone yesterday - please PM your phone number and we can discuss, if desired. The big takeaway is if you “fill it up” like the manual says, the oil will expand the seal, allow moisture in, and you are back to where I am now. Mine needs 27 ounces, I am told.

None of the procedures he provided were detailed in my manual, but it’s pretty straightforward (I am doing it, after all). He spent 3/4 of an hour on the phone with me, so great customer service. This is one of those jobs where you could pay the yard a boat unit to do it, or you can knock it out in a few evenings...if that’s your thing.

 

[wkearney99]

To follow up on this, I had the #34 circlip replaced on the bottom, along with the #32 split-ring clips that sit just above the chainwheel. Runs perfectly now.

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

Thanks for the followup.