Mantus m2

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I'm sure the Vulcan is a fine anchor and will work well. It may very well be my second choice. This is just my thinking....With all the money we spend on boats and everything that comes with it, I'm not going to flinch at another couple thousand on an anchor that should last many years especially considering its purpose. Save money elsewhere. A Coast Guard instructor about 40 years ago told me, "Always buy the best piece of equipment for the purpose you need it for."


I'd agree, but from what I've seen, the Ultra is a great anchor, but not really any better than the Vulcan or Spade. So if you want shiny stainless, sure, it's worth it, but I'd rather have a better rode, windlass, and an extra spare anchor vs a shiny stainless anchor.
 
I'd agree, but from what I've seen, the Ultra is a great anchor, but not really any better than the Vulcan or Spade. So if you want shiny stainless, sure, it's worth it, but I'd rather have a better rode, windlass, and an extra spare anchor vs a shiny stainless anchor.

I won't argue that point. I would guess the Vulcan or Spade are probably on par with the Ultra although the engineering of the Ultra has some strong points. Not sure that justifies the higher price, but again with all we spend on boating, if you can have one of the best performing anchors AND one that looks nice on the bow of your boat (assuming you care about the appearance of your boat and not just how it functions), to me it was worth it. I also invested in some synthetic teak decking over my non-skid which is an improvement in both appearance and function. Is it worth the cost? That is subjective. To me it is.
 
I figure here in Alaska southeastern waters if you anchor enough times sooner or later you will lose your anchor. Hiring a diver to come to a remote location could cost several thousand dollars? So I figure this into the expense of a anchor.
Heavy stainless anchors are expensive.
 
Fresh Ak,
A SUPER SARCA has a slip slot that transfers the rode attach to the rear of the anchor ... and usually one should be able to pull it right up.
 
I figure here in Alaska southeastern waters if you anchor enough times sooner or later you will lose your anchor. Hiring a diver to come to a remote location could cost several thousand dollars? So I figure this into the expense of a anchor.
Heavy stainless anchors are expensive.

In your case that would make sense.
 
I figure here in Alaska southeastern waters if you anchor enough times sooner or later you will lose your anchor. Hiring a diver to come to a remote location could cost several thousand dollars? So I figure this into the expense of a anchor.
Heavy stainless anchors are expensive.

Perhaps an anchor float would be appropriate for that situation with the heavy enough line that you could retrieve the anchor
 
Yes I use an anchor float at times and so far have never had to back an anchor out. The anchor float can be a bit of a pain when anchoring in 60 feet of water and a twenty foot tide. Float line can get tangled behind the in the rudder when retrieving said anchor, but can be an anchor saver.
 
Yes I use an anchor float at times and so far have never had to back an anchor out. The anchor float can be a bit of a pain when anchoring in 60 feet of water and a twenty foot tide. Float line can get tangled behind the in the rudder when retrieving said anchor, but can be an anchor saver.

Agreed the anchor float can be a pain when anchoring in.15' of water. I had people drive over my float on four separate occasions.
 
I tried the float and retriever line.
I noted the depth and rigged the tripline for about 10-20’ more re tide.
It worked well but I didn’t need it and it got to be too much trouble.

But now I’ve got a SARCA.

When I get my health back (to hospital for aorta splint) l’ll try the anchor on the trip slot. I want to check short scope setting too.
But I want to get my bow modded to take the anchor shank through the stem at about foredeck level. It’s gonna be a few days before I can drive a car though.
 
Texas B,
I do not exchange e-mails w Mantus.
But if they change their face I’ll take another look.
Has Mantus ever divulged the steel alloy in their shank?
 
Panope review of the newest Mantus. More of a bench test.

In other reviews, he definitely likes the Spade. Eventually, mantus will be my backup anchor because it can be unbolted and stored more easily.

https://youtu.be/GWmOi5QJVic
 
Yes I use an anchor float at times and so far have never had to back an anchor out. The anchor float can be a bit of a pain when anchoring in 60 feet of water and a twenty foot tide. Float line can get tangled behind the in the rudder when retrieving said anchor, but can be an anchor saver.

A common solution is to run the trip line from the anchor through a pulley attached to the float and then tie a weight to the end of the trip line. It’ll rise and fall with the tide and keep the trip line taught.
 
Panope review of the newest Mantus. More of a bench test.

In other reviews, he definitely likes the Spade. Eventually, mantus will be my backup anchor because it can be unbolted and stored more easily.

https://youtu.be/GWmOi5QJVic

Peter, the Sarca Excel has an excellent alloy version that comes apart, but the way it goes together is incredibly strong and reliable as well.
SARCA Excel Alloy Anchor - Anchor Right Australia

PS. I'm out of boating, in the physical sense, so no pecuniary interest.
 
Peter, the Sarca Excel has an excellent alloy version that comes apart, but the way it goes together is incredibly strong and reliable as well.
SARCA Excel Alloy Anchor - Anchor Right Australia

PS. I'm out of boating, in the physical sense, so no pecuniary interest.
Sarca does very well in Panope tests. Not easy to find here in US. When the time comes, I'll look a little harder.

Thanks for the tip.

Peter
 
Just bought a Sarca Excel #5 to replace the Super Sarca which doesn`t fit the "new" boat". Can`t wait to get it wet. May depend on staying out of lockdown. No.5 SS for sale.
 
Sarca does very well in Panope tests. Not easy to find here in US. When the time comes, I'll look a little harder.

Thanks for the tip.

Peter

Peter,
ARA anchors are right up in Sidney near Victora.
Readily available.
And as far as I know covid has nothing to do w availability.
But I got mine hand delivered by a boater crossing the Strait.
When I’m fully recovered from my vascular operation I intend to do some experiments on the slotted shank. I suspect many don’t fully understand it.
 
Peter,
ARA anchors are right up in Sidney near Victora.
Readily available.
And as far as I know covid has nothing to do w availability.
But I got mine hand delivered by a boater crossing the Strait.
When I’m fully recovered from my vascular operation I intend to do some experiments on the slotted shank. I suspect many don’t fully understand it.

I hope all goes well with the op, Eric. Is that a preventive job to protect against aneurysm rupture..? Not familiar with the term you used.

As to many not understanding, (I'd add or trusting), the slotted shank. Yes, it does take some faith, but I used it all the time, and was thankful of it several times where I might otherwise have lost the anchor, and I never had it let me down. Remember those arguments Marin was always putting up against it, even though he didn't have one..? :)

I guess they left one out of the Excel because it would require a larger, (vertically), shank, and maybe spoil the sleek looking appearance and/or functionality for those wanting it to come up inside a slotted pulpit.
 
The Sarca looks very similar in concept and design as the Ultra. Question for the group, I know it adds a lot of cost, but do those with SS anchors use SS chain? If not, there will be some galvanic corrosion of the last link. It's somewhat minor and is manageable, but something to be aware of.
 
Other than cost, is there a disadvantage of a stainless steel anchor vs a galvanized anchor in the same model?
 
Not that I know of, but there are some "advantages".
 
Peter my friend,
Yes .. to avoid the almost certain rupture.
Sometimes I’ll sleep for 2 hrs during the day and wake up refreshed.
To compare the shoulder cuff op it was child's play.

Yes the SARCA is more and more appealing but need to get it mounted lower on the bow.

It works now but it sticks up in the air looking a bit silly. Also trashes the view badly.

What I plan is to put the anchor on the sea floor w just a little slack in the rode. Then I can back a bit and thusly orient the anchor. I’ll have it planed then (re wind drift) to let the boat drift back w a tad bit of slack. Then when I need to give it more slack I’ll pull it up and see where the rode shackle is attached to the anchor. After 3-4 repeats I will get to the point where I know I’ve got control of the rode/slot relationship.

Then I’ll look at Steve’s Vids and see the minimum scope the anchor sets at. Then I can set it ... say going N and consistently easily break it out going straight N or S. After a-while I should know exactly what’s going on. Sorry no pics.

But both the boat and I need some time before that can be performed.

By the way Steve is performing anchor tests still and has a kind-of fund me thing going. I’d like to go over to Port Townsend and use the spot where he tested anchors first. Flat, large and soft mud/sand bottom. Maybe even connect w him.

Sure hope winter dosn’t drag on through or even to March. But as always ... who knows?
 

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Not that I know of, but there are some "advantages".

I’ve heard numerous times the smooth bright finished anchors travel through the sub-strait w less drag and thus set more easily, penetrate deeper and more readily drop mud on the way up.

So yes IMO but the differences are probably small.
 
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