Hot windlass?

[jclays]

How hot should a windlass get when in use. Never put my hand on one while it was in use.
Mine was too warm to keep my hand on it while taking in 175’ anchor rode.

 

[Comodave]

What model windlass do you have? Are you using the windlass to pull the boat forward to the anchor or are you using the engines to move the boat forward?

 

[Lepke]

Check the voltage at the motor while it's hauling in. Low voltage causes the wiring to heat. Too much heat for too long causes the motor to fail.

 

[Arc]

It should not be that hot.
Either:
Too much load
High friction [ bearings, bushings, ]
Motor shorted

 

[jclays]

It’s an old Lewmar concept. Was on the 97 Mainship 350 I recently bought. My son and I re built it. It was frozen. The main bearings were rusted. Gears looked new. Brushes/ motor was very nice. New bearings , seals, some Lewmar grease on the gears and bearings for assembly. Filled the tank with gear oil to the fill hole.
Boat tied up at the dock. Feeding in my rode from the dock while putting a strain on it with some of my body weight to keep the rode tight.

 

[Comodave]

If it is getting that hot just pulling the rode in then it is probably either low voltage or maybe a bad motor. As suggested check the voltage at the windlass when it is under load. Check the size wiring and length of run to and from the windlass and batteries. Then lookup in a wiring size chart and see if it is adequate for the length and amperage. Also check all the connections for loose and corrosion. The windlass is a high draw device so it needs proper size wiring and good clean connections. When doing an install like this I calculate the size wiring needed and then go a size larger just because I want the best possible voltage at the device. It isn’t that much more cost and it is a one time cost that will pay off every time you use the device. Motors run cooler and longer with good voltage.

 

[jclays]

If it is getting that hot just pulling the rode in then it is probably either low voltage or maybe a bad motor. As suggested check the voltage at the windlass when it is under load. Check the size wiring and length of run to and from the windlass and batteries. Then lookup in a wiring size chart and see if it is adequate for the length and amperage. Also check all the connections for loose and corrosion. The windlass is a high draw device so it needs proper size wiring and good clean connections. When doing an install like this I calculate the size wiring needed and then go a size larger just because I want the best possible voltage at the device. It isn’t that much more cost and it is a one time cost that will pay off every time you use the device. Motors run cooler and longer with good voltage.

I believe it to be the original factory installation. Wire size is large and per manual on the boat. It might be normal for that windlass.
to tell you the truth in all the years Ive operated boats this is the first boat that I have ever had put my hand on the windlass towards the end of operation.
Have any of you guys ever done that? Im just curious because I really cant recall that I have ever done so.
Motor/windlass was running well no noticable sound of strain. Just running like a normal windlass. Hmmmmmm

 

[Arc]

warm is ok , hot no good. the motor my be shorted to ground. it will still work but amp draw will be higher then spec. look at the brushes for signs of heat .

 

[Comodave]

I believe it to be the original factory installation. Wire size is large and per manual on the boat. It might be normal for that windlass.
to tell you the truth in all the years Ive operated boats this is the first boat that I have ever had put my hand on the windlass towards the end of operation.
Have any of you guys ever done that? Im just curious because I really cant recall that I have ever done so.
Motor/windlass was running well no noticable sound of strain. Just running like a normal windlass. Hmmmmmm

Just because Mainship did it doesn’t mean that it is correct. Check and see if it is indeed large enough. If it is then check every connection to make sure it is good and clean. Did you measure the voltage at the windlass under load? Maybe contact Lewmar and ask them how hot is acceptable. Imagine pulling your anchor and rode up from depth rather that the dock. I suspect the windlass will get hotter in that case.

 

[FF]

Use a temperature gun to hit each feed wire connection between the battery and the unit.

I would bet there are a couple of warm ones, clean them as a first step.

 

[Shrew]

They sell a new motor and gearbox as a set. Besides, I was under the impression that motor wasn't serviceable.

 

[jclays]

They sell a new motor and gearbox as a set. Besides, I was under the impression that motor wasn't serviceable.

The motor was good. Had a shop that rebuilds starters/alternators check it out. The only thing bad on it were the main bearings . The windlass was not used much and those bearings were rusted solid.

 

[jclays]

Will take voltage today.

 

[markbarendt]

Check the voltage at the motor while it's hauling in. Low voltage causes the wiring to heat. Too much heat for too long causes the motor to fail.

Yes, this.

 

[jleonard]

A bad cable connection could also cause it to heat up.

 

[EngNate]

Hand on the motor? Too hot to keep it there = about 120-130F. That isn't excessive temperature after a few minutes at moderate load, and I wouldn't be concerned unless I see it in the 150+ range under normal load and run time. Tensioning your rode by hand should put minimal load though, and an issue might be indicated. After confirming the supply voltage I would check the current draw to judge whether there is an issue. Mis-alignment or worn gears can cause binding and amplify the load on the motor. Indicator would be higher than expected no load current that rises sharply with load.

 

[jclays]

As stated before gears are pristine.
Took voltage at the motor.
No load 13.67v
Powering down 11.60v
Powering up 10.73v
Connections clean and tight.
Cable is Lewmar recommended 2/0
Batteries are old 07/2017.

 

[EngNate]

The supply voltage is not holding up as it should. Batteries may be all the cause, but also check all connections in between. It should hold at least 11V when pulling rated load. Likely no issue at all with the windlass, IMO.

 

[markbarendt]

As stated before gears are pristine.
Took voltage at the motor.
No load 13.67v
Powering down 11.60v
Powering up 10.73v
Connections clean and tight.
Cable is Lewmar recommended 2/0
Batteries are old 07/2017.

Are you measuring at the battery or the windlass?
Edit : I see at the motor.

It is normal to have some voltage drop at the motor, doesn’t mean the battery is bad.

Do you have a way to measure amps?

What model is the windlass?

How long are the cables, round trip?

What kind of battery? Rating and size?

 

[rgano]

How long were you running the motor continuously?

 

[Shrew]

How long were you running the motor continuously?

My windlass shuts down if I run it too long. I have to power it off, then wait a few seconds, then power it on again. I wonder if that shutoff is a thermocoupler type of device, or based on runtime.

Could it be missing on this windlass??

 

[jclays]

Windlass has its own circuit breaker next to the battery.

 

[fgarriso]

1. Check the voltage at the battery(s) with no load.
2. Turn on the windless under load and check the battery voltage.
3. If the battery voltage drops more than 1 volt, replace battery.
4. If voltage is holding on check#2 go to the windless and repeat #1 and #2.
5. If the battery voltage drops more than 1 volt, replace battery cables. Your battery cables are too small for the load.

6. Now retest everything 1-5.

 

[DrissZougari]

I would remove the rope/chain of the windless an run it (empty). if it does get hot (not just worm), then I would suspect that you have left out something during the rebuild.
you can also loosen the gypsy and try this experiment!