Hinz recommends a chain locker grate

[HeadedToTexas]

And I do not have one. A grate at the bottom of one’s chain locker sounds like a smart idea as it would it allow the rode a better opportunity to dry out. Might also help draining by preventing the limber hole from getting blocked by the rode. Do you guys have a grate at the bottom of your chain lockers?

 

[AlanT]

And I do not have one. A grate at the bottom of one’s chain locker sounds like a smart idea as it would it allow the rode a better opportunity to dry out. Might also help draining by preventing the limber hole from getting blocked by the rode. Do you guys have a grate at the bottom of your chain lockers?

I am perhaps the first but certainly not the only one who will point out that you should not shackle your anchor chain to the boat. There may come an occasion when you need to part ways with your anchor/chain in extremis. In that case a length of three strand that you can cut with a serrated knife (kept not too far away) is what is recommended to make the connection between rode/chain and shackle.

~A

 

[psneeld]

Yes, to me the grate is a very important component.

Agree on using rope length to connect chain to boat, long enough to be cut from on deck.

 

[BruceK]

My first powerboat had a grating, diamond pattern reinforced heavy rubber, about 1.5" tall. Found it under 3" of mud at the bottom of the rode locker. A very satisfying clean up using the water blaster, incl clearing the drain. Keep the grating and locker clean.

 

[C lectric]

I installed a grate in the bottom of my locker. Other wise the first feet of chain never got to dry out.
THe grate was a cast off from a flooring mat that I hacked to suit.

 

[AlanT]

My first powerboat had a grating, diamond pattern reinforced heavy rubber, about 1.5" tall. Found it under 3" of mud at the bottom of the rode locker. A very satisfying clean up using the water blaster, incl clearing the drain. Keep the grating and locker clean.

I think that is the challenge of a grating. It needs to be strong enough to support the chain, yet open enough to allow free flow of water. (Helps if you can direct a water jet through the locker after parking the anchor).
~A

 

[BruceK]

I think that is the challenge of a grating. It needs to be strong enough to support the chain, yet open enough to allow free flow of water. (Helps if you can direct a water jet through the locker after parking the anchor).
~A

Indeed yes. Or wash the rode before it enters the locker. My previous boat had unlimited washdown pressure water via a saltwater washdown pump, with bow outlet.

 

[DDW]

You can put DriDeck in there, pretty cheap considering, and easy to install/remove for cleaning. It will help dry the chain for sure.

Also, many anchor lockers have the drain installed above the bottom, using a bulkhead fitting which is the cheap way to do it. That guarantees a puddle in the bottom. Even if straight down through the bottom of the locker, a fitting usually has a flange damming some water. Should have a small sump, or a flush bonded tube for the drain - rarely seen in production boats.

 

[Peter B]

And I do not have one. A grate at the bottom of one’s chain locker sounds like a smart idea as it would it allow the rode a better opportunity to dry out. Might also help draining by preventing the limber hole from getting blocked by the rode. Do you guys have a grate at the bottom of your chain lockers?

Excellent Idea. I shoulda thought of that, back when I owned the boat. Still, I bought new galv. chain when we bought the boat in 2002, and only needed to end for end it once in the 16 years we had it, and it was still barely rusty. Still really good idea, as then a fresh water flush of the locker would work well, as long as the grate held the chain pile up enough off the bottom of the locker.

I did have the recommended length of nylon, from the locker attachment to the end of the chain, long enough to cut out at the pulpit in case of an emergency drop and rum event however.

 

[FF]

"Agree on using rope length to connect chain to boat, long enough to be cut from on deck."

YES!

And the line should be long enough to tie to a couple of life vests or a big fat fender , so you can locate the anchor again.

 

[HeadedToTexas]

My picture did not show it, but the chain bitter end is only the last 4 feet. I have 150 feet of chain, 150 feet of 3 braid nylon, and 4 feet of chain.

What I don’t have (in addition to a grate at the bottom of the locker) is deck access into the locker to flush out the mud and sediment that accumulates there. Access comes exclusively through the master stateroom. Not the best. Later models added a deck hatch. Wonder what it would take to cut one in?

 

[rslifkin]

What I don’t have (in addition to a grate at the bottom of the locker) is deck access into the locker to flush out the mud and sediment that accumulates there. Access comes exclusively through the master stateroom. Not the best. Later models added a deck hatch. Wonder what it would take to cut one in?

My access is the same (just a hatch in the forward stateroom). When it's cleaning time, I just feed a hose down through the deck hatch in the forward stateroom, open up the chain locker access and then flush things out. Just have to be careful not to make a mess in the process.

 

[C lectric]

As for the drain fitting I modified a bronze flush type through hull to reduce the head diameter a bit. Ground the hole in the locker bottom to accommodate the flush fitting so it sat just a hair below the locker bottom. Epoxied the edges of the plywood with raw and then filled epoxy afterwards. Once installed the locker bottom does not retain water.

Of course I still have to get in there to clean it but it is now a huge amount better than what was present before.

A few questions around the marina may help you find an amateur machinist who will adjust the through hull head dia. to what you need without costing a bomb.

 

[skyhawk]

I've wondered why most chain lockers are not built to be much more open below than they are....as in so open that most water and sediment doesn't even have a chance to linger and so that good airflow happens. I'd want to be able to hit it with a good blast from a hose once in a while and flush all the dirt/gunk/bits of rust or whatever right out without effort and then know that it will dry quickly

 

[OldDan1943]

I too have line at the bitter end of the chain. In my case, nothing exciting. Just some half inch yellow polypropylene, more than enough to get the chain totally free of the bow pulpit so it drops straight down w/o hitting the boat. Both ends of the line have thimbles.
I have used anti-sized on both hasp thread incase I ever want to remove them w/o a saw or grinder.
Per retrieving the chain and anchor, I ain't rich but, stores do sell new chain and anchors. (Maybe I will come in here get advice of weight and style of replacement anchor and chain. NOT!!)
I suspect lifting the bitter end of the chain off the bottom is not a fun event. It is going to take more than a few good size fenders to keep the chain from sinking. I have no idea what 30ft or 60 of chain weights.

 

[rslifkin]

I suspect lifting the bitter end of the chain off the bottom is not a fun event. It is going to take more than a few good size fenders to keep the chain from sinking. I have no idea what 30ft or 60 of chain weights.

If the line is long enough, you won't need to hold up much (if any) chain, which makes marking it for retrieval easier.

 

[OldDan1943]

If the line is long enough, you won't need to hold up much (if any) chain, which makes marking it for retrieval easier.

Very true. I thought I was being excessive with 15ft of poly line.

 

[skyhawk]

interesting point about floats for retrieval....
In many cases I'd imagine that even if the float marker was pulled to the bottom...just pulling up a short line so that it's floating above the bottom a few feet might greatly increase the odds for finding it by diving on it....

 

[FF]

"My picture did not show it, but the chain bitter end is only the last 4 feet. I have 150 feet of chain, 150 feet of 3 braid nylon, and 4 feet of chain."

You might consider more chain at the bitter end , enough to go overboard.

Should you be in a bad anchorage having a chain lead will not fray and come undone like rope might.

Sure chain may chew up the bow a bunch , but that's repairable , loosing the boat is not.