Had to cut my anchor free - how to prevent this in the future?

[Nopistn]

Basically all I did was point the bow into the wind, released the windlass (I have a Power Winch which is a free fall), and then I just let the wind blow us backwards. The anchor dug and set itself.


Since I have to buy a new anchor, I'm thinking of going with a Mantus. But what is the best type of anchor for clay/mud/silt/pudding bottom?

Call mantus. They have a chart on their website and are very helpful.

 

[caltexflanc]

Your method of setting would be fine for the Mantus, or any of the more modern types. Usually not so good for a Danforth, which makes me all the more suspicious you were well and truly fouled, and nothing would break it free. Motoring slowly forward over the anchor position, with the rode tied off should alway break a Danforth free, albeit with possibly a bent shank.

You might want to also consider a Sarca anchor, either the Super or Excel, both now available in the US I believe. From past personal experience, excellent anchors, and the Super Sarca has a break free trip mechanism almost unique, and might have saved the day in your case.
Super SARCA Anchors - Anchor Right Australia

I've set a lot of Danforth style anchors on big boats as well as our Whaler when we take it to the beach, and actually his method is absolutely the way to go.

 

[wkearney99]

Wkearney99, thanks very much for that post, that's very interesting. Until I learned our current boat I assumed all throttles were linear until I finally got it and the light went on in my head. After our 350 mile trip from Newport to Albany I finally developed a good feel for what I call the dead-slow arc and the power arc. There's a very slight bump, a notch I can feel at the beginning off the power arc, and both throttles have that feel, so I do think it's a purposeful design thing and not a kink in a throttle cable for example, ha. It did throw me off until I got used to it, but now I find it very useful -- wide throws while I'm docking, but then a lot more careful once I feel that subtle bump or notch in the throttle arc. I have no manuals or paperwork on the throttles and the boat is 60 miles away but I'll check next time I'm down there.

I don't know of anything specific for those throttle controls or you engines. But I'd wonder if there's any adjustability on the engine side of the cables. Or if your cables are in proper condition. I think sometimes we "get used to" using something, thinking it's us... when it's really a piece of gear that's maladjusted/broken. Might be worth spending to have a tech look it over.

 

[wkearney99]

I was not alone, I had others on board, but I'm the only one that knows how to drive our boat. And I don't say that as a brag, but literally, I am the only person that was on board that can drive my boat.

My partner doesn't know how, and doesn't have any interest in learning because the fear is too overwhelming for him. He does help when I give him clear instructions, but usually it's not this difficult.

The last time that we anchored, we weren't affected by the wind, and I was able to maneuver the boat forward, pull in slack, go forward, pull in slack, and actually able to pull the anchor up without ever laying hands on the rode.

This time the wind, and the stress of having everyone on board got to me.

I feel for you. Night time, post fireworks, is never a fun time to be wrestling with boat problems. For future stuck anchor situations it'd probably help to cleat the rode at the bow and use that to gently pull the rode to get the anchor loose.

Still, it's awful trying to deal with all that at night with guests aboard. This is one reason I don't anchor out for fireworks unless I'm going to spend the night in that spot. I don't want to deal with the stress of my own boat AND the idiocy of other boaters trying to race back to port (in the dark, no doubt with liquor involved).

I'm not trying to volunteer spending someone else's money, but your situation... single-handled and no help willing to learn makes this sound like a perfect excuse to do a throttle upgrade... to something like a Yacht Controller setup with a wireless remote that handles throttles, thruster and windlass all-in-one. That'd let you be able to work the process from the bow, using a cleat for tension should the anchor get stuck again.

I've had past experience where getting stuck in a stressful situation opened up the wallet to approve spending for prevention. As in, "if we had that expensive thing you talked about before, would that have prevented this situation?". Why yes... yes it would....

 

[toocoys]

So I figured out, *I THINK* what was wrong with my windlass. The rode that was on it was very thin and very flimsy. I remember my friend telling me they had to cut another anchor off before so I guess the replacement wasn’t installed properly. The old rode was still in there.

The newer smaller stuff is very flimsy, almost like dock rope. The older stuff is much thinker and much much stiffer. Almost like a cattleman’s rope.

I think the small flimsy rope was getting caught in the gypsy and hitting some kind of safety switch. I’ll have to consult the manual.

I was able to get my 44lb Bruce anchor back from the friend I gave it to. He ended up not using it. So hopefully I can just get another 50ft of chain or something and install it properly.

 

[toocoys]

..

 

[ranger58sb]

The newer smaller stuff is very flimsy, almost like dock rope. The older stuff is much thinker and much much stiffer. Almost like a cattleman’s rope.

If it's that stiff, you may have to experiment with how well it falls -- or not -- down into the locker as it comes back in. Too stiff, and it might pile up in a pyramid, too high, get fouled so it might not feed out on your next time... and 3-strand tends to do that anyway.

If it turns out you have to buy new, 8-plait lays nicely, doesn't do that piling thing... and I think it's stronger anyway.

-Chris

 

[OldDan1943]

Well, I finally did it.
Unloaded about 300 ft of chain rode, painted 2 feet, every 50 feet.
I had to use an angle grinder to cut the link that holds the chain to the boat. The chain locker gets hot and cramped after a time. SMILE
I put about 25 feet of that good over yellow floating line. The intent is, if necessary, I can cut the line and come back later for the anchor.

 

[Nomad Willy]

Toocoys wrote;
“The newer smaller stuff is very flimsy, almost like dock rope.”

So why should dock line be “flimsy”?

 

[toocoys]

Toocoys wrote;
“The newer smaller stuff is very flimsy, almost like dock rope.”

So why should dock line be “flimsy”?

I don’t know if it SHOULD be flimsy, but all the dock rope I’ve ever used was so it was the only reference I had.

 

[rochepoint]

On the Powerwinch website they have all their models listed, click on the one you have and check the specifications tab. It shows the required line diameter needed for each winch model, if your line is a smaller diameter than specified the winch will have troubles pulling it up.

 

[egbauman]

I boat in the same waters and have been out to those fireworks many, many times. My experience is that the Danforth type anchor holds better than a conventional Bruce or Delta anchor in the bottom mud of Galveston Bay. That said, the Mantus and Rocna anchors are also excellent choices for this area.

I have a 47 foot boat and use a Fortress FX-55 anchor. It never disappoints. I also use all chain rode. Would recommend implementing something similar.

While I normally drive the boat, my wife takes over when we anchor so I can deal with the windlass. We use a pre-defined set of hand signals so I can get her to maneuver the boat over the anchor when we are trying to pull it up. You need to work out something like that with your partner. Some of the local organizations hold anchoring classes throughout the year. You should both go to one.

Happy to talk about this with you in person. Just PM me and I'll send you contact info.

 

[ProMaritime]

As sdowney717 says, you need to get the bow vertical over the anchor. Motor up on it, don't burn out your windless by using it to propel the boat, its made to lift a 100# or so anchor, not counteract 500 - 1000 pounds of windage generated by a big heavy boat. This is basic anchor retravel 101.
If there was as much wind and bouncing around as you say, the anchor will simply work its way out of the muck.

 

[rgano]

From the OP's description of events, it appears that the too-small rode gummed up the windlass meaning he may never have gotten directly over the anchor where the boat could be maneuvered back and forth to work the anchor free. Lots of good advice has been given to resolve both the gumming up and the up-and-down issues. If his Mainship has the same marginal windlass and pulpit scantlings mine does, NEVER attempt to pull the anchor free of the bottom without first securing a strong snubber to a well-secured cleat (not the one on the pulpit). A tripping line secured to the crown of the anchor might have helped. I have given up using buoyed trip lines and rather would secure it to the last ten feet or so with light electrical ties. Speaking of fouling items on the bottom, with my trawler's McMurry windlass, I once cranked up a gigantic tractor tire to the surface (and not an inch above the surface, either!). It must have been ten feet in diameter. I quickly ran a mooring line through it from the two bow cleats, lowered the anchor to clear it, and then released one side of the mooring line to dump that thing. In regard to the 22-pound anchor, it was not much of a loss IMHO, but it did seem a tad smallish for the size of vessel, even though in this case it worked.

 

[rbcooper]

Releasing a fouled Anchor

Ok we've about exhausted all of the alternatives concerning the OP's difficulties in releasing his anchor. I personally believe from his description he wasn't able to retrieve all of the rode to get to the "up and up" position directly over the anchor. All of the suggestions about freeing an anchor buried deep were spot on but what to do when the anchor is fouled on something heavy on the bottom?

If one anchors in a known foul anchorage than dropping a buoy on a trip line is the best defence. BUT if one encounters this problem in an otherwise "clean anchorage then I rely on a short 2 foot length of heavy chain. With the boat positioned "up and up" over the anchor, I shackle the chain around the rode and with a stout line lower it down the rode to hopefully drop beyond the shank of the anchor. With the dinghy take the stout line and pull in the opposite direction of the set of the anchor. The chain should slide down and pull the flukes off of whatever was fouling them. The anchor at this point should be free and able to be retrieved. It's kind of like having a trip line that is installed AFTER the problem occured. I've seen two incidents where this worked and experienced personally one case.

If this doesn't work then tying off a marker buoy (and marking the lat lon location on the chart plotter) leave it to be later retrieved by a hired diver crew.


RB Cooper

 

[High Wire]

A Danforth pulled tight vertically HAS TO break free eventually unless snagged on something.

One thing I did not see mentioned was to simply call SeaTow, Boat US, or the Coast Guard/CG Auxiliary. They all know how to free a stuck anchor.

 

[toocoys]

One thing I did not see mentioned was to simply call SeaTow, Boat US, or the Coast Guard/CG Auxiliary. They all know how to free a stuck anchor.

they do that???

 

[Lou_tribal]

A Danforth pulled tight vertically HAS TO break free eventually unless snagged on something.

One thing I did not see mentioned was to simply call SeaTow, Boat US, or the Coast Guard/CG Auxiliary. They all know how to free a stuck anchor.

Where we are usually anchoring the bottom is dense clay and the anchor (danforth) is deeply digging into it. When pulling out we pull rope and chain until being right on the anchor vertical and not being able to pull anymore, then pushing engine forth then back free the anchor. The most difficult part is to get rid of the gigantic pile of clay stuck on the anchor before bringing the anchor back aboard!

L

 

[Nomad Willy]

Lou .... trip line.

 

[FF]

Even an unskilled helper can take up line , hand over hand till on top of the anchor , if the boat is powered slowly forward..

A windlass is needed to take in chain , as it is heavy and usually too muddy for a guest to handle.

With line, merely stepping on it will usually hold till the operator comes to properly cleat it off.
Just be sure the helper lets the line lay on deck, not go overboard into the water.

 

[Lou_tribal]

Lou .... trip line.

What's this?

L

 

[psneeld]

they do that???

Try all the tricks mentioned so far but from another boat with better workspace and maybe more toys on board to help. They can more easily run something down your rode and pull straight ahead while your boat keeps the rode as straight as possible.


In my 14 years of assistance towing(2-3000 responses), I would say I had maybe only 6 calls for stuck anchors if that many....but had maybe around 20 boats that were broken down that I started to tow but when it came to getting their anchor up....it wouldn't and some needed lots more coaxing and some were just cut free.

 

[wkearney99]

If this doesn't work then tying off a marker buoy (and marking the lat lon location on the chart plotter) leave it to be later retrieved by a hired diver crew.

As this thread progressed, I ordered a spare inflatable buoy and some line to do just this. Better to have it handy if/when needed.

 

[dsharp]

If it were mine I would call the maker of the winch and see if you can replace the “gypsy” with a cat head. What you have is made for chain, which you really don’t need much of in Galveston Bay. You would loose the auto drop feature so if that’s important to you you may not want to change. With a cat head you can pull hard or let it slip to give the winch a rest. If those are Morse single lever controls I believe there is some adjustment in there for when the throttles start increasing. It will help if there is enough slack in the cables to lift the whole control head up out of the console. There should be some information online about the adjustment procedure. I was paroled from boatyard hell about 35 years ago so I don’t remember exactly how you adjust them. You’re a brave soul to be on the bay for fireworks.

 

[ben2go]

What's this?

L

Trip line is red.

 

[psneeld]

The more prevalent use of a trip line in my mind is to back an anchor out from an immovable object.


Not shown in the diagram...that looks like a normal up anchor situation not requiring a trip line.

 

[Lou_tribal]

Trip line is red.

Oh ok I see, thank you for the info!

L

 

[Nomad Willy]

It’s intended to use a trip line vertically.
Or if you know exactly where the anchor is ... pull from behind ... probably the ideal way to retrive.

 

[High Wire]

they do that???

Yes if you are a member of Sea Tow or Boat US towing plans, call them.

USCGAux carry equipt and the operator has been trained to do it. The only question is will they be ALLOWED to do it.

 

[High Wire]

Trip line is red.

Stuck ones would come out easier if pulling the trip line right to left. (in the direction the bow is pointing) Never seen a trip line diagrammed as shown.