Foot Switch to Control anchor Windlass?

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Foot switches do lead a harsh life on some boats, while I prefer them, I have not had much luck with them.

I may try one last set but mount them higher and on a 45 degree angle to shed water better.

I forgot the name of my foot switch, but it was working at least 10 years on a very low bow in the salt. Got flooded a lot. It did drive only a relay, not the motor directly.
THe helm works great as long as the anchor comes up in the correct orientations. My plow was 50/50, so it requires twisting manually. Our foot switch was just out of reach when we had to lean over the pulpit and spin the silly anchor. So, it had to be a remote. And would have been a bit dangerous for the helm to manage power with someone holding the chain at the roller.
If your anchor plants itself right side up, you will find the helm switches are the most used. Since, now it becomes a solo deal for most. Though, consider snubbers, rinsing the chain, and chain locks thru all this too.
 
Foot switches do lead a harsh life on some boats, while I prefer them, I have not had much luck with them.

I may try one last set but mount them higher and on a 45 degree angle to shed water better.

Maybe try a different brand. Mine have flip up covers but the actual switch has a rubber cover over it.
 
Foot switches do lead a harsh life on some boats, while I prefer them, I have not had much luck with them.

I may try one last set but mount them higher and on a 45 degree angle to shed water better.

I am always at the bow when weighing my anchor. Often the boat will be holding the rode taught due to current or wind, so I need to be at the bow to guide the Admiral at the helm in order to keep the rode vertical. I often need to be hosing the chain to keep mud from filling the locker, peeling weed off of the chain, and always, knocking the pile of chain over so that I can get the entire rode into the chain locker without blocking the pipe with the pile.
All of which necessitates a foot switch, at least for weighing.

Setting, can be done from the FB, where I have a toggle switch.

My boat came with manual foot switches, the kind that use a rod to push the solenoid contacts together, spring loaded to release. When those failed, I put in the little micro switch kind and moved the solenoid location to a spot that kept them dry, so they have lasted longer. I have still replaced the solenoids more often than any other electrical item on the boat. Anchor lockers are a harsh environment.
 
Maybe try a different brand. Mine have flip up covers but the actual switch has a rubber cover over it.

So did all 3 of the mid to higher end brands that I had that failed.

Trying a different mounting may help if its the amount of spray that I take aboard.
 
I have both foot switches and helm. There’s times that each are handy.
 
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Rechargeable batteries (the small ones like AA and AAA) are the worst and you have to remember to recharge them. If you use a piece of string on your wireless remote you might as well use a wired remote and do away with the batteries.

You are using the wrong batteries.
Try eneloops made by Sanyo and Panasonic, even the ones from IKEA get good ratings.
Have plenty on board charged ready to go so simply swap when flat and put flat ones on charge.
Its not hard

How you figure a string around your neck is the same as a wired controller is beyond me.
No plug to fill with water for starters. No wire to trip over when moving around.

The reason I don't like the foot control is the reason given by others
When using my hands to clip on the snubber I can't reach the foot control.

Also when the crew is clipping on the snubber or hosing chain and I am in the wheelhouse using the switch there, I can't hear instructions or see the chain as clearly.
Several steps out onto the Portuguese bridge with a remote and that is no longer a problem.
 
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another vote for a wired remote. My plugs in and can be replaced with my spare in seconds when it like everything else on a salt water boat fails.

A remote allows me to move around the foredeck so that my wife can see my hand signals by which I convey both direction and length of time being in gear. Rarely do we ever lift anchor just in one direction.

Using the remote I am also able to move around the deck to see where the chain is located in relationship to the bow.

Thus I often move from side to side on the foredeck to watch what is going on and to give the hand signals to my wife.
 
I have a windlass control on each helm, a manual remote operated control at the anchor windlass and a wireless control integrated in the wireless remote control of the Dockmate Twist. I think the Dockmate Twist is outstanding. No foot controls. I am of the opinion that foot controls cannot be operated in an accurate manner. I have two foot switches for the electrical capstans on the back of the boat but they cannot be operated as accurate as manual switches.
 
I checked into a remote/rode counter and lots of $$$$$. I had just ordered $6K for a new windlass....
 
That would be nice and I have gotten soaked pulling up my anchor, but my windlass manufacturer cautions that the rode must be tied off independently of the windlass when anchored or underway so if it's raining when I want to anchor or leave, I still have to go to the bow.

Yeah, they say that - as a counsel of perfection, and yes, always when one might encounter a bit of rough stuff. But seriously, when has your windlass/winch ever suddenly let go..? Once the anchor is up and housed the strain on the windlass is minimal to none anyway. But yes, I have a hook and cord I usually hook onto the chain once up, especially when we have visitors aboard, and when she is back in her berth. Mainly in case idle fingers hit the helm switch, not from the winch letting go for any reason. But if it's raining cats and dogs..?
 

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I'm just following the instructions. They even included a warning label I was supposed to apply somewhere.
 
:thumb::thumb:

Wired helm plus wireless remote.

Same here! I have a wired switch at the lower helm and a bracket to hold the wireless remote at the FB helm, if needed. (It's only been used a couple of times there in 8 years of use.)

Usually, the wireless remote sits at the ready at the lower helm if I need to use it on the bow or when standing in the stbd side deck while watching the windlass and shifting the boat into and out of gear as I approach the anchor.

In frequent anchoring over an 8 years span, I've never had to replace the batteries and have never lost it overboard. Knowing my luck, I suspect my remote batts will soon die since I have now mentioned that fact. :facepalm: :D
 
The warning label covers the manufacturer for hazards related to loosening underway and accidental anchor drop.
 
I have been doing quite a few product safety risk assessments and install manuals of late. Totally diff industry though. And labels too
 
The label just duplicates what is printed in the manual. secure the rode when anchored because the windlass is not designed for the possible load when anchored. Or when underway so there's no possibility of the anchor being launched while the boat is underway.
 
Yeah, they say that - as a counsel of perfection, and yes, always when one might encounter a bit of rough stuff. But seriously, when has your windlass/winch ever suddenly let go..? Once the anchor is up and housed the strain on the windlass is minimal to none anyway. But yes, I have a hook and cord I usually hook onto the chain once up, especially when we have visitors aboard, and when she is back in her berth. Mainly in case idle fingers hit the helm switch, not from the winch letting go for any reason. But if it's raining cats and dogs..?

I agree. If in calm water and weather, I don't bother with a snubber. When the chain is hanging straight down, there is hardly any need to take the load off the windlass. Sure, conditions can change but usually not unexpectedly.

Just make sure the clutch is set properly.
 
I agree. If in calm water and weather, I don't bother with a snubber. When the chain is hanging straight down, there is hardly any need to take the load off the windlass. Sure, conditions can change but usually not unexpectedly.

Just make sure the clutch is set properly.

I agree with that also Auscan. Especially for a quick lunch or cuppa stop. However, aBoatman was referring to the need for putting a short snubber on even when the anchor is home and housed. Good practice generally, but if the clutch is done up tight enough to haul her up, it is not going ot let go when stowed. Unless someone deliberately fiddles with it, that is - unlikely. My clutch needs a metal lever to tighten and looses anyway. Which I have stowed under my helm seat normally, unless out cruising with just the two of us. Then it hangs from hooks under the winch mount part of the pulpit. Often this type of so-called safety label are an overstatement, as Diver Dave mentioned. More to protect the manufacturer's legal butt from idiots than any real practical risk. :socool:
 
It is good someone is at the windlass during drop/retrieve. Makes sense they have control switch(es), at hand or foot, remote or not. Helm controls are good, sometimes no one can be on the bow.
Replacing foot switches, and having them fail, is a PITA. Buy good ones,seal them in as thoroughly as possible. As well as having the flip cover over the top of the switch, I laid a bead of flexible sealant in the groove formed by the flexible rubber cover, and the surround.
 
...

In frequent anchoring over an 8 years span, I've never had to replace the batteries and have never lost it overboard. Knowing my luck, I suspect my remote batts will soon die since I have now mentioned that fact. :facepalm: :D

Al, you're tempting fate. I recommend having the remote with a loop you can place around the neck. Also, it's about time to change the batteries. Hope the old ones are not corroding.
 
We have foot switches by the windless and a wireless controller on a lanyard. I installed and wired in the wireless remote myself. Very easy.
 

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