Chain Stopper

[Liambennett]

Hi All,
Still plugging away with this refit !
I have just ordered a new windlass, rode counter an 10mm short link chain.
I don't have any real experience with chain.
From what I have read I will need a chain stopper.
There seems to plenty to choose from.
What should I get ?

[READY]

I have a stainless cable with clip. Bitter end can be secured to deck, windlass or cleat as long as it is secured and aligned. Whether this or a stopper the secured mounting is most important. You are just taking the load off the windlass mechanism and transferring it to a solid anchor point on the boat. I find the cable works well for me but I have not used one of the pin style stoppers. A bridle is also something you may want to have if you do much extended anchoring.

[Shrew]

What you really need is a chain hook and snubber. The chain stopper is to stop a run-away chain or if the snubber lets go. It's a 'belt and suspenders' to ensure load isn't placed on the windlass.

However, I would want a snubber when sitting on anchor. I wouldn't want to sit on straight chain.

[Flatswing]

Originally Posted by Shrew

What you really need is a chain hook and snubber. The chain stopper is to stop a run-away chain or if the snubber lets go. It's a 'belt and suspenders' to ensure load isn't placed on the windlass.

However, I would want a snubber when sitting on anchor. I wouldn't want to sit on straight chain.

The other (less common) need for a chain stopper is the combination of a large, long shank anchor (like my Spade) used in conjunction with a vertical windlass that has a short distance between bow roller & windlass. Just before the anchor finally seats on the bow roller, the shank rises up & can strip the chain off the Gypsy. A chain stopper just in front of the windlass prevents this.

[Delfin]

Ditto on the snub line, but I prefer using a soft shackle to attach it to the chain. The snub line takes the load, stretching when heavily loaded and quiets the chain. A Dyneema soft shackle is stronger than the chain and won't fall off.

[Comodave]

I would have a chain stopper to take the load off the windlass while cruising and some type of snubber for use when anchored. The chain stopper will hold the anchor tight, hopefully, while you are cruising and stop the anchor from deploying if the chain pops off the windlass or the windlass fails and lets the chain run out. The snubber will take the strain off the windlass while anchored and alos stop the chain grinding noise from being transmitted throughout the boat while anchored. You hook the snubber to the chain and run the chain out until the snubber comes taut then let out some more chain so the load is completely transferred to the snubber and the chain is slack at the windlass. There are lots of different types of chain stoppers and snubbers out there to choose from. I would through bolt the chain stopper and not just screw it to the deck. This is way more involved than some think, marinehowto.com has some excellent articles on how to properly bed and seal deck fittings.

[Shrew]

A chain stopper is a good safety device to keep the anchor from running away while underway. But it is a lousy tensioner.

I suppose if you introduced tension with the windlass, and the stopper as a saftey retainer. I just use a chain hook and a short piece of static line (no extension) to restrain the anchor. This acts as the tensioner and the safety retainer.

Using a chain stopper as a fairlead roller for the anchor chain is a good idea, but then so is a fairlead roller:

[Mambo42]

Every time we have the anchor out 1 or 2 snubbers will be attached to the chain, taking the complete load of the anchorwinch and anchor block. All is transferred to the bow cleats. That means also in port, when we have to use the anchor to go stern to, a snubber is used.
If we are in an anchorage and more than 4 Bft is forecasted a second snubber will be attached, just in case the first one fails. It does mean however that I won't be able to pull up the anchor as fast as someone else, but since I have much heavier ground tackle than required I don't worry too much about dragging. It is more about the enormous forces on the snubber that may just become too much, so that is why a back up is used.
The snubber in port also has another benefit. If someone has dropped his anchor over our chain and starts to pull out our chain and anchor I don't run the risk of the anchor block going overboard.

[Reba]

With decades of anchoring on chain only systems I believe you will also at some stage get your anchor stuck. The chain stopper should be strong enough for the chain or anchor connection to break before the stopper fails. Anchor winches are not designed to take heavy loads from fouled anchors and bent gypsy shafts are the normal result of excess load on the windlass. Many times with a locked chain you can allow the waves and gentle manouvering to free the anchor and this is best with Manson or Sarca super anchors using the shaft slide shackle position.
Using rope snubs and a hook takes the chain load of the roller and gives a softer ride at anchor taking out noise and shock

[Nepidae]

We use a dock line attached to a big box store galvanized hook that fits the chain.

Get the anchor set and attach the hook to the chain and let some chain out so that there is a drop to the chain. See here: (https://www.mylorchandlery.co.uk/ima...94/2420_05.jpg). I usually put more drop than the picture shows.

This is called a snubber.

You might also want to carry a bridle as well. It is like a snubber but with 2 legs to the boat. See here: https://www.mantusmarine.com/mantus-...ubbersbridles/

What both of these do is take the strain off the windlass which most manufacturers require to handle a warranty claim.

We have a Lofrans Tigres Windlass which has a large cleat on top of it to tie the snubber off on and 2 samson posts to tie the bridle to.

[Mambo42]

This is our set up for the winter. Two bow lines and 70 mtr anchor chain plus snubber in 4 meter deep water. Should be enough for every type of winter storm.
Next week I will install the second snubber, but then with D-rings, just in case the first snubber fails.