Bow eye for bridle

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I only deploy a single snubber, of double braided and small diameter....I think 1/2 inch

If the winds are forecast to be above 30, I just upgrade to a double braided dockline, 5/8 inch.

Never use chafe gear and have not really noticed much chafe on the same snubber over the last 3 years.

I was always concerned it might, but it hasn't so time rolls on with what has worked for me. Obviously what works for one boat won't necessarily for all...I just worked KISS and it hasn't been an issue.
 
Charles, one of my most memorable recent boating experiences was anchoring in the flow at Nachez and going ashore in the dinghy. I can relate to your reference!

In my case the original boat was built with no consideration to anchor handling. Mods include the same windlass as yours, and a sturdy platform and roller. But the roller is cantilevered out probably 30" from the stem, and I'm concerned about vertical forces on the roller when anchored in a seaway. That led me to looking at beefing up deck hardware, which led me to the bow eye as an effective and practical alternative.

Make sense?
 
While there probably is some chafe against the chain, I've never noticed any appreciable amount to stop using the dock line I have used for yrs.

There is no chute, roller is at the end.

We've never deployed to the 8 plait and more often than not deploy about 1/2 the chain.

Our anchoring generally takes place in less than 15' of water.

Our pulpit roller isnt 30" from the stem, but retrieving the anchor from our last anchorage on the Mississippi showed our 2" thick piece of oak was put to the test. I think the stern was raised a couple inches.

I wish attaching pictures was easier, I'd show our setup.

I believe our '86 was built with anchoring in mind.
 
To me the purpose of the snubber line is to ease the load on the anchor and cushon the ride aboard.

Nylon takes about 10% of its breaking load to begin to stretch .

Look up the breaking load of the line you use as a snubber and decide if you will see more than 10% of that load in the anchorage.

For most nights 3/8 line will smooth the ride about right 1/2 inch over 50 ft, , and remember you are still connected should the snubber let go.
 
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Heh As it happens I'm berthed next to a Bayfield 36. Just had a close look and I can see that working nicely. Also gives me a bit more appreciation for the square stem on those boats which facilitates easy robust mounting. I never tire of looking at these things...

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Wow what a small world Cheroka is famous in the Bayfield community it was owned by a guy called John Jamieson and he kept it in Georgian Bay, he loved the boat and sadly passed he was ex Navy and a very knowledgeable guy. I have sailed with it when he bought her down to Lake Ontario for a summer. Glad that you were able to see what I meant it worked great for us,
 
The bow eye is often used by those who don't have the necessary equipment up where the windlass is.

We have a Tigres windlass that has a very large cleat on the top. I use a snubber most of the time that is a 5/8 dock line with a big box hook on the end. After the anchor is set I will put the hook on a link of the chain and drop the chain down so it is underwater at the bow. I'll then tie the dock line to the cleat.

I believe that this serves the same purpose and function without the expense of installation and maintenance of the eye once installed.

We also have hawse holes in the bow and 2 substantial Samson posts at the pulpit. When I want to use a bridle, which a bow eye won't help with, I use the hawse holes with the bridle and a hook at the end. It was made similar to the Mantus bridle with a Mantus hook on the end.

I would say that if anchoring on the Mississippi in a 6mph current can be done with my set up I'm not too worried I don't have a bow eye.

Good luck with what you decide.
We most certainly had the right equipment by the Windlass, it allows for the Purchase point to be at the water line dead center removing the boats ability to hobby horse and swing at anchor. It also makes for a quick anchor set as the line attached had a chain claw on it which was the 6ft below the water after deployment
 
Charles, one of my most memorable recent boating experiences was anchoring in the flow at Nachez and going ashore in the dinghy. I can relate to your reference!

In my case the original boat was built with no consideration to anchor handling. Mods include the same windlass as yours, and a sturdy platform and roller. But the roller is cantilevered out probably 30" from the stem, and I'm concerned about vertical forces on the roller when anchored in a seaway. That led me to looking at beefing up deck hardware, which led me to the bow eye as an effective and practical alternative.

Make sense?
Makes total sense there is now no force on the Bowsprit, I have seen pictures on this forum of Trawlers with the sprit broken off, I know mine when we pull in the anchor Moves when tightening the anchor on the roller. i always try to remove the forcs off the Windlass and the Sprit (Anchor roller platform)
 
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