The Art Of Anchoring

[Mike Negley]

THE ART OF ANCHORING

It takes skill, experience, and good judgement. Many of the variables are not under the control of the captain of the vessel such as weather, the condition of the sea bed (sand, rock, mud, grass, hard or soft, etc.), and the boat owner who just anchored up wind of you. There is no “perfect anchor’ for every situation but we are not limited to using one anchor assuming we have more than one on board.

For many years we kept our boat in the British Virgin Islands which is not very safe from hurricanes, but everyone knew the island of Culebra on the east side of Puerto Rico was the absolute perfect place to anchor if a serious hurricane came by which it did in 1989 named Hugo reaching category 5 status. Our boat was docked in Road Town, Tortola and unfortunately, I was not able to fly down and move it to Culebra. One of our best friends who owned a Valiant 40 like ours lived on his boat with his wife and moved his boat to Culebra going early to get a very safe location and set out four anchors plus tied to the trees on shore, removed all the sails and running rigging, and put everything away. They even took their dinghy out to each new arrival to help make sure they anchored correctly. They then watched as more and more boats showed up as the hurricane got closer. As it got close to H-Hour the newbies were in a panic and many just threw out an anchor, jumped in their dinghy and sped to shore.

By the time Hugo arrived there were more than 100 boat in the harbor and those that came in last were to windward of the boats that came early and had taken great care caution to anchor their boats. With The winds now over 76 MPH and Hugo wasn’t over yet having been predicted it to reach 150 MPH. Some of the late commers who did little to anchor correctly were beginning to break lose drifting down on the boats to leeward. Debris from shore became a hazard and it was difficult to stand up outside. Even in the Harbor seas were huge and the boats that came adrift were crashing into other boats, tearing down standing rigging and breaking masts. Boats at the front of the pack were beginning to stack up. The noise was awesome and those at the back were now imprisoned with no chance of escape. At 100 MPH whole buildings on shore were coming apart, roofs were flying by and even small farm animals were airborne (pigs really can fly!). In order to go check the anchor line you had to wear a dive mask and crawl across the deck. The rain was stinging your body if not covered. Anchor rodes were bar tight; If one broke the line could kill you if you were in the path of the recoil. Any sails that were not taken down were shredded. Windows broke from wind pressure or debris allowing boats to flood and sink. People watched their boats disintegrate before their eyes. People were injured with no help possible and the worst was yet to come with the huge amount of damage which was all bundled into a pile. Stuff was everywhere. Many were in shock.

I tell this story to remind viewers anchoring is often subject to another boat owner’s inexperience, bad judgement, or sheer stupidity. Many set out multiple anchors in a V pattern, but this creates a giant net for boats out of control and drifting to leeward. Once in the net it is very difficult to arrest their escape. A better option it to create a single rode with multiple anchors in a single line anchor to anchor so wayward boats can slide by. Not all anchors have a provision to attach a line at the front. I was once anchored behind a 70 foot ketch whose 5/16th chain anchor broke. It sounded like a canon shot and it happened so fast we were only able to power out of their path and having a chain rode we could do this without fear of fouling our prop. If you are in warm waters consider diving down to the anchor and set it by hand, especially with a grass seabed.

Our boat which was left at the dock in Road Town never got a scratch because Hugo turned west aimed directly to Culebra. My friend with the other Valiant had serious damage and ended up having his boat put on a barge and taken back to the factory in Texas. The repair lasted two years.

 

[psneeld]

Not sure what you mean.

A skipper nowadays does have decent weather/ hurricane forecasting, does have control where he anchors/ or not, and does have some options where in an anchorage whether up or downwind of others.

I am under mixed opinions whether anchors in multiple locations or tandem are best. Like you said though, it can depend who might drag into you.

 

[HiDHo]

I agree anchoring is an art as much as a science. I have witnessed boaters who don’t get it. They usually develop a phobia and blame it on the anchor, rode, weather, holding ground or windlass, and end up buying different anchors Etc. Some give up anchoring and live by rushing from marina to marina. I have never understood someone who buys a boat with a toy anchor on the bow. There rationale is they don’t anchor because marinas offer restaurants, etc. They forget the safety feature of anchoring if they loss propulsion.

 

[Steve Bedford]

I agree anchoring is an art as much as a science. I have witnessed boaters who don’t get it. They usually develop a phobia and blame it on the anchor, rode, weather, holding ground or windlass, and end up buying different anchors Etc. Some give up anchoring and live by rushing from marina to marina. I have never understood someone who buys a boat with a toy anchor on the bow. There rationale is they don’t anchor because marinas offer restaurants, etc. They forget the safety feature of anchoring if they loss propulsion.

I read on a previous thread a comment/question about using a bow and stern anchor to stop swinging while at anchor. Reminded me of a conversation with a customer a few weeks ago. Florida boater and wanted to buy two of our anchors so he could anchor off bow and stern with the threat of coming hurricanes. He wanted a proper sized anchor off his bow and smaller off his stern. I asked why bow and stern and he replied he did not want to swing. I asked if he ever anchored in preparation for an incoming hurricane and he said, “no.” I asked how often he anchored at all and he said, “not so much.” I asked him if he considered what might happen to a boat that can not swing when hurricane winds and wave actions are off his beam and not off the bow and he said he did not know.

I asked what would happen to the smaller anchor set once the wind and wave action clocked around off his stern? He said then he wanted to change his order to two of the same size (as his main bower). I referred him to Rudy and Jill’s book, “ANCHORING- A Ground Tackler’s Apprentice.” I then said, I would sell him a properly sized main bower but would not sell him a second anchor. I told him I did not feel comfortable with his experience in anchoring to sell him a second anchor to be used off his stern for hurricane anchoring protection. He did buy one for the main bower and may have gone to another brand for a stern anchor, don’t know. He did say he would get the book and read it.

The “Art of Anchoring!”

Steve

 

[Hippocampus]

Have seen a definite change in anchoring behavior in recent years.
Due to expense, weight and need for upgraded windlasses see more rope rode. If you’re only in muddy places like the Chesapeake probably doesn’t matter. But if you’re anyplace where abrasion may occur it does. Similarly given very few use a kellet at equivalent distances chain is less likely to drag.
The nexgen anchors seem to work just fine on very short amounts of rode out. Until they don’t. Given how tight some anchorages are see increasing numbers of people using less than 3:1. We have always carried enough rode to allow 5:1 to :7:1 up to 50’ of depth. Have often anchored out and put up with the longer dinghy ride in order to be safe and at 5:1.
People don’t understand sometimes you backdown to set an anchor and sometimes it’s best not to. They don’t pay attention to what kind of bottom they’re anchoring on.
People are more resistant to advice and less polite. Have had to get in the dinghy telling someone (usually a charter boat) they will swing in to me or they are dragging. In the past got a thank you. Now get abuse. So now take the phone with me and snap a lot of pictures. Then when they are abusive remind them I’ve documented their poor anchoring technique for the insurance company claim to come.
See boat candy anchors. Beautiful stainless jewels on their bows grossly undersized and of less effective patterns due to aesthetic concerns.
It’s gotten so bad we’ve moved on occasion or just placed fenders across the bows to mid ships and hoped for the best.
Culebra was a fun place as was Culebrita but even without a hurricane coming it’s a zoo. Mix of sail, small power, large power and a fair number of big sportfish. Wouldn’t be my first choice as a hurricane hole. Even Hurricane Hole would be a better choice. Of course best choice is to get out of dodge or haul.if I recall Sopers got wiped in that storm as well.

 

[rslifkin]

With the smaller chain and more mixed rodes, I think that's partly a function of people trending torwards bigger anchors and then saving some weight in the rode to keep total weight reasonable. Personally, I carry a large anchor and a mixed rode (90 feet of chain, 300 of rope). For where I boat, it's adequate and allows plenty of scope in the deepest places I would have any reason to anchor. If I were heading to the Bahamas or other areas with coral and rocks, I'd switch the combo to 150 / 250 (figuring I'd never need more than the 150 of chain in those areas), and if I were on the west coast where coral in deep water is an issue, even more chain.

I absolutely agree that most people just don't know much about anchoring and many assume that whatever anchor the boat left the factory with must be good enough. And yes, most use way too little scope. Intentionally anchoring at 3 or 4:1 in a good bottom with an oversized anchor (plenty of extra holding power you can afford to lose with short scope) is one thing, but anchoring at 3:1 in an unknown bottom with a too-small anchor because you just don't know better is a whole different story. I personally short for around 3.5 - 4:1 in good weather in deeper water, 4 - 5:1 in shallower water. That's for during the day. Overnight, I'll usually go around 5:1 in deeper water, at least 5:1 in shallower water unless I know it's a good bottom, good weather, and I've got a reason to stay shorter.

 

[mvweebles]

.......People don’t understand sometimes you backdown to set an anchor and sometimes it’s best not to.

Interesting comment Hippo - I've done a fair amount of anchoring, but suspect you have a LOT more. Surprised at the comment that there are times where backing-down is not a good idea. Can you elaborate?

Thanks in advance -

Peter

 

[Hippocampus]

In loose mud as is common in the Chesapeake, Block island and parts of Long Island sound nexgen anchors fail to perform. To improve performance they need to settle through the soup and reach a firm substrate. We will drop a Rocna (or similar) and using the engine if necessary to fight wind or current put no strain on the anchor allowing it time to settle. Then use the wind alone or just a tap of engine to lay out the chain. Then just sit. Usually a minimum of 1/2h as we do the putting the boat to bed chores.
If you put tension on the anchor before it has sufficient time to really dig into something firm as soon as you back down you’ll just pull it out. Often in those settings we never backdown. Just put the boat to bed, have dinner and hang out. I may restart the engine and do a low rpm backdown before sleep but usually not.
If I’m going to be in a loose mud area for awhile I might flip to the fortress. It does a much better job in those conditions.

 

[Nomad Willy]

Hipp,
That’s quicksand.
I don’t think the seafloor has been piling up long enough to create such conditions out west.
I always back down. And to determine if I’m on a Chesapeake bottom I’d need to drop and back down. And the anchor wouldn’t hold of course and I’d go elsewhere.

 

[psneeld]

With my new 60lb Manson Supreme, I think I back down, maybe 20% of the time.


Most other times the current or the wind has already signaled to me a good set.


If I feel I have a good set but want to check it because it is forecast to blow over 25 knots (less than 10% of the times I anchor) hen a backdown is warranted for checking.

 

[rslifkin]

I typically don't back down like some do by moving backwards quickly to tug the anchor into the bottom. If there's enough wind, I just let the boat blow downwind in a slow, controlled manner to pull the rode tight and make the initial set. If there's light wind, I'll use the engines to do that. But I generally do it pretty gently. Then after that initial set and a few seconds for things to settle, I'll smoothly bring up tension on the rode again and then sit against it with both engines in idle reverse until it's fully stretched and boat speed shows 0. Then increase to 1000 RPM and let it settle. That gets it nicely dug in and confirms the anchor isn't just caught on something weak and that the bottom isn't total crap.

If I'm in a bottom where I can't at least pull idle reverse against the anchor without it dragging or breaking free, then I'm moving, as I won't trust it to hold in any kind of wind.

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

Over the past several years cruising the PNW and the Inside Passage I always back down the 77lb Rocna and when it catches and digs the chain rode will go to 45 degrees on the bow pulpit. Then on the average I would put out around 200ft of chain rode.

 

[GoneFarrell]

Score: Bollard 1, Anchor 0.

https://thumbs.gfycat.com/AcrobaticTightHornet-size_restricted.gif

 

[firehoser75]

Hippo,
Interesting info regarding not backing down, and to me, it makes sense the way you describe it.
I also agree with the other western posters (PNW) that we always back down. The conditions you reference are rare here, and I would want to know that holding was poor so I could move.

After reaching the bottom, we slowly back down (in and out of gear or allowing the wind) while we "lay out" the chain. Once we have the desired amount of rode out, we secure it and very slowly back down to gradually tighten the rode. It will eventually go bar tight at a 45 degree angle like ASD described. We then will slightly increase RPM and hold while sighting 2 landmarks to determine we are set. Usually a couple of minutes ensuring set.

Doing this, gives us reasonably good confidence that we are properly set and that we can sleep without undue worry. Scope used is usually 5 to 1, at high tide, (unless very crowded anchorage and /or very calm predicted.) In very deep water (say over 80 feet) or when anchored on a steep incline and stern tied, we will go 3 to 1.
I carry 250 feet of chain and 150 feet of rope for rode. We are usually all chain when anchored.

 

[O C Diver]

With my new 60lb Manson Supreme, I think I back down, maybe 20% of the time.


Most other times the current or the wind has already signaled to me a good set.


If I feel I have a good set but want to check it because it is forecast to blow over 25 knots (less than 10% of the times I anchor) hen a backdown is warranted for checking.

I tend to anchor in less than 20' of water, drop the Rocna and 7:1 chain over, add the snubber and call it good. If I'm expecting more than 25 knots, I'll do more.

Ted

 

[mvweebles]

Surprised at comments that some folks don't always back-down when setting their anchor. Honestly, I thought that was a normal best-practice that was done as a matter of course.

Is this an east-coast vs west-coast thing?

Peter

 

[O C Diver]

Surprised at comments that some folks don't always back-down when setting their anchor. Honestly, I thought that was a normal best-practice that was done as a matter of course.

Is this an east-coast vs west-coast thing?

Peter

If I were short (IMO) scoping or using a farming implement for an anchor, I would maybe feel the need to do more.

I look at it this way. If the anchor comes out of the bottom on a tidal current or wind reversal in the middle of the night, the anchor is going to have to reset itself without my help, and there won't be any backing down to set it either.

Ted

 

[rslifkin]

To me, backing down serves 2 purposes. 1 is to set the anchor deeper so it's less likely to break out from minor yawing and such causing a slightly angled pull. But the big reason is to feel how it digs into the bottom and holds. So even if it's not necessary to set the thing, it confirms that it'll hold at least X amount of pull in this bottom, so I know the bottom isn't garbage.

 

[psneeld]

It may be more of a " local" thing based on environmentals.

As I posted, its rare that wind or current doesn't move the boat enough to signal a reasonable set.

Its also rare fior me to anchor in more than 15 feet at low water....which may be another factor (water depth).

If I have a doubt, I will back down..... but its only maybe one in ten sets.

Its worked fine for years with no dragging and pulling in the morning tells me whether I gambled right or wrong.

Don't get me wrong, I used to back down all the time, then occasions allowed me to test the no backdown option (for my setup, as it may not work for all combos) , after awhile I got comfy with what I felt was necessary.

 

[rslifkin]

The depth thing is a good point. It takes a lot less wind / current to feel what the anchor is doing in 10 feet than it does in 50 feet (where there's a lot more rode out and it has a lot more give).

 

[Hippocampus]

My experience is limited to the entire east coast, Bahamas, leewards, windwards and Canadian maritime. I have no experience anywhere in the Pacific Ocean, Indian Ocean nor Med.
Any decent chart or cruising guide tells you what the bottom is like. We carry cruising guides. We keep them current. 80-90% of the time we anchor someplace we’ve never anchored before. We always look at the cruising guide to determine what holding is like and where’s best to anchor to avoid swell, noise, wakes, crime etc. We always circle our prospective anchoring spot.
Our routine in sand or firm mud is exactly as several posts have said. Light back down at ~1500 , relax, then firm backdown at ~2100 for 3-5 minutes. We then either dive the anchor or look at it from the dinghy. We are not infrequently in places where dragging means losing the boat so are not cavalier about it.
What I posted above only refers to loose mud. Similarly use a different technique in grass. Here the issue is to catch a non grassy area. You can be wrong if technique isn’t spot on. A good clump of grass can entangle your anchor causing you to think you have a good set. Hours later as the anchor eventually cuts through the grass off you go. Have gotten hit by other vessels when this has occurred. God bless rub rails.
To get around this we put the bride out as forward as possible on the foredeck. She spots a clear place or nearly clear place. Using her directions the drop is at the far end so in slow reverse you drag across that open spot. Do this with 10’ to 15’ plus depth of water out. As soon as you feel the anchor dig let out your desired length of chain under light or no pressure as you back down. Then gentle backdown for at least 3-5m . She’ll keep a foot on the chain and I’ll pay attention. If either of use feel a “skip” pull it up and start again.
Rocnas, Mantus and the like with a roll bar pull out and reset rapidly with a major current or wind shift. It’s important they are truly buried in the middle of the clear patch. Spades do better on resets behaving more like the old CQRs coming up but not totally out. Would never go back to a CQR as the Rocna gives a good set quicker and with fewer needs to reset.
When around coral heads (Caribbean) or in with rocks (Maine) you get a different problem. You can get under a rock or into a coral head and have too good a set. Then it’s a bear to get the thing out when you want to leave. We’ve taken to tying a dyneema line into the hole in the back of the anchor. Just about every anchor has one although it’s position may vary. We tie that line to a fender and let it float. Then with me in the dinghy and her at the helm I use the 15 hp of the dinghy to dislodge the anchor. Have had friends destroy their windlass trying to use that to pull up the anchor. The technique is much the same as getting a fouled lure off the bottom when fishing. Once the anchor is free I return to the boat and we together do our usual thing.
Anchoring is just applying your common sense. Having situational awareness and understanding the risks involved. There are many treatises about it but in the end it’s about having a brain and using it. Too many have gotten away with bad practices. Until they don’t. Many have a one way or the highway attitude ignoring the need to be flexible in approaching this extremely important task.

 

[psneeld]

If I were short (IMO) scoping or using a farming implement for an anchor, I would maybe feel the need to do more.

I look at it this way. If the anchor comes out of the bottom on a tidal current or wind reversal in the middle of the night, the anchor is going to have to reset itself without my help, and there won't be any backing down to set it either.

Ted

Bingo...

 

[mvweebles]

If I were short (IMO) scoping or using a farming implement for an anchor, I would maybe feel the need to do more.

I look at it this way. If the anchor comes out of the bottom on a tidal current or wind reversal in the middle of the night, the anchor is going to have to reset itself without my help, and there won't be any backing down to set it either.

Ted

Implies there was a 'set' in the first place. So there are a couple other reasons to set an anchor - one being to align to current/foreseeable conditions (wind, current). Second being to ensure the road doesn't pile-up atop the anchor. Given your deep knowledge, I'm sure you accommodate for those items, but there are few things more disconcerting than watching a large boat with a small anchor steam into an anchorage and drop an anchor and free-wheel a bunch of rode. Then crank-up a blender with Celia Cruz blaring on the speaker.

Someone once told me that in the Med, you should try to never anchor down-wind of a French boat. Not sure why.

Peter

 

[Hippocampus]

In the Caribbean it’s for 3 reasons
They seems to actually enjoy a good argument at loud volume. Often with their wife at 2 am. It’s the wife’s voice that penetrates the hull and wakes you.
You get tired of looking at sagging naked boobs and hairy ball sacks. Once on a boat clothes seem optional to French folks of all ages.
They aren’t very friendly at all.
Above said tongue in cheek. Generally speaking they’re highly competent sailors. Have made multiple strong friendships with French borne cruisers.

 

[Jay N]

Setting the anchor

I've copied verbiage from my anchoring file that concerns my anchoring experiences. This information represents many years of anchoring in Puget Sound, BC and SE Alaska bays.

The short summary, is that I almost never test the initial set by continuing to pull on the rode. But, this requires some technique to provide a verifiable and acceptable initial set.


[FONT=&quot]Deploying and Setting the Anchor[/FONT][FONT=&quot]:[/FONT][FONT=&quot] On WESTERLY, deploying the primary anchor and rode requires the operator to be at the bow (See ANCHOR WINCH OPERATIONS for details). The operator reverses the engine prior to the desired position, and then goes to the bow to deploy the anchor when stern way begins. After letting out enough rode to place the anchor on the bottom, the operator engages a soft brake and returns to the pilothouse to place the engine in neutral. After returning to the bow, the remaining stern way (around 1 knot max) is used to set the anchor by adjusting the winch brake in conjunction with the desired rode length. Advantages of this scenario include: Being able to visually see that the anchor position is acceptable prior to deploying the anchor, observing and controlling the rode during deployment so that stern way and rode deployment are balanced, making sure the desired amount of rode is deployed, observing/feeling the rode while the anchor sets, and visually observing the suitability of the boat position when the anchor is set and the rode is stretched out. This scenario provides the best possible feedback as to the accuracy and quality of the initial set. [To be sure, it takes some experience to balance stern way and brake resistance with remaining rode. This technique is appropriate for all anchors needing some pull on the rode in order to engage the fluke(s) with the bottom.] [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]After the Initial Set:[/FONT][FONT=&quot] You can reverse the propulsion engine(s) continuously if desired to further test the set, but this procedure has almost never been performed based on the success of the deployment and setting procedures outlined in the preceding paragraph. [/FONT][FONT=&quot][Because the anchor continues to sink into the bottom (especially soft mud) for some time after the initial set, continuously backing the engine may eliminate the possibility of an improved set given some time to "soak in". On the other hand, if an anchor is able to achieve a good initial set after continuously reversing propulsion engine(s), then it's still a good set, but probably wasted effort. Unfortunately, it is common to see boaters using this technique dragging their anchor around the bay trying to get it to set. After being unable to get their anchor to set, many do not seem to recognize that the geometry must be changed to achieve a set in the same bottom conditions (anchor in shallower water, or increase the scope, or both). In addition, speed of the boat in setting the anchor can depend on the anchor design. Initial deployment speeds of no more than 1 knot, and final setting speed of under .5 knots are good speeds for the Delta/Rocna/WESTERLY.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Naturally, we have observed several interesting situations over the years. One situation concerned a 50' Grand Banks attempting to anchor in Silva Bay with a CQR at a scope that the owner had comfort with at other anchorages. After watching him drag around the bay several times in reverse, he ended up passing by fairly close and we had a discussion that he should just stretch out his rode and let the anchor sit for awhile before pulling on it. He did so, and after a couple of hours, started his engines and reversed only to find he was well set. Cost him a bottle of wine![/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]It is appropriate to comment here on the design of many recreational boats (both sail and power) where design and/or conditions may make it impractical and even unsafe for the operator to be on the bow at the anchor windlass/winch when deploying an anchor. In addition, the availability of remote switches, rode counters, reversing windlasses/winches, and self-deploying anchors mean that many operators of these boats do not, in fact, ever go to the bow to deploy an anchor. Obviously, they need to mitigate the lack of visual and hands-on feedback by closely observing what they are able to observe: Making a visual adjustment to determine that the anchor position is suitable, carefully monitoring stern way in order to keep deployment and vessel speed in balance, watching carefully for the desired rode mark at the bow roller (or trusting an electronic rode counter), and maybe/maybe not being able to see where the rode enters the water that would provide visual feedback about the quality of the initial set. Considering the limitations with this type of anchoring arrangement, reversing the engine(s) to confirm a good set may be helpful (at the risk of creating other problems - see preceding paragraphs). Retrieving the anchor may also require the operator at the bow to wash the chain and anchor.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]If you are unsure of the quality of the initial set, increase scope until you are comfortable with the set, and then shorten scope if appropriate. Consider letting the anchor “soak in” for awhile before testing the set. It's important to note that anchoring studies have shown that some anchors in certain bottom conditions may not completely set under high rode forces, and in the case of veering winds, may break free and re-set at some distance from the original location. You will need to keep this in mind in order to become comfortable with the anchor position given bottom and weather conditions, and other anchored vessels and obstructions. [/FONT][FONT=&quot][Yes, sleep/comfort at anchor depends a lot on experience.][/FONT]

 

[O C Diver]

If the anchor comes out of the bottom on a tidal current or wind reversal in the middle of the night, the anchor is going to have to reset itself without my help, and there won't be any backing down to set it either.

Ted

Implies there was a 'set' in the first place. So there are a couple other reasons to set an anchor - one being to align to current/foreseeable conditions (wind, current). Second being to ensure the road doesn't pile-up atop the anchor. Given your deep knowledge, I'm sure you accommodate for those items, but there are few things more disconcerting than watching a large boat with a small anchor steam into an anchorage and drop an anchor and free-wheel a bunch of rode. Then crank-up a blender with Celia Cruz blaring on the speaker.

Someone once told me that in the Med, you should try to never anchor down-wind of a French boat. Not sure why.

Peter

Peter, address my point. If your anchor can't reset it itself absolutely nothing else matters! If you get a reverse, and the anchor comes out, there no guarantee whether it's in the weeds, on hard bottom or soupy mud when it tries to reset. So, my choice is a big anchor or a modern design, and enough scope to have numerous feet of chain dragging on the bottom when the anchor has to reset in the middle of the night. How could you sleep well at night if your anchor and rode won't do that by itself?

In addition, by the time I go to bed, it's been 4+ hours of the boat moving at anchor. If it's not set, the drag alarm would have already said as much.

Ted

 

[Codger2]

Don't get me wrong, I used to back down all the time, then occasions allowed me to test the no backdown option (for my setup, as it may not work for all combos) , after awhile I got comfy with what I felt was necessary.

Interesting comment. As I grew older, my comfort level ebbed and I backed down all the time. Do you think that "age" has a lot to do with your anchor routine?

 

[mvweebles]

Peter, address my point. If your anchor can't reset it itself absolutely nothing else matters! If you get a reverse, and the anchor comes out, there no guarantee whether it's in the weeds, on hard bottom or soupy mud when it tries to reset. So, my choice is a big anchor or a modern design, and enough scope to have numerous feet of chain dragging on the bottom when the anchor has to reset in the middle of the night. How could you sleep well at night if your anchor and rode won't do that by itself?

In addition, by the time I go to bed, it's been 4+ hours of the boat moving at anchor. If it's not set, the drag alarm would have already said as much.

Ted

Two scenarios (same anchor - only variable is setting or not setting)

1. Anchor was set. Something changed and it may need to re-set. Amount of change needed to cause a need to re-set: Very high. Either very high pressures in predicted direction, or moderate pressures in an unexpected direction (tide/wind change).
2. Anchor was not set. Amount of change needed to cause a re-set: Who knows? Could be a lot, could be a little. It was never set in the first place.

I'm going with #1 Ted. There is not a circumstance I can imagine where I am better off without a set than with one. I'm fine using an anchor alarm, but not depending on it.

Peter

 

[psneeld]

Peter, address my point. If your anchor can't reset it itself absolutely nothing else matters! If you get a reverse, and the anchor comes out, there no guarantee whether it's in the weeds, on hard bottom or soupy mud when it tries to reset. So, my choice is a big anchor or a modern design, and enough scope to have numerous feet of chain dragging on the bottom when the anchor has to reset in the middle of the night. How could you sleep well at night if your anchor and rode won't do that by itself?

In addition, by the time I go to bed, it's been 4+ hours of the boat moving at anchor. If it's not set, the drag alarm would have already said as much.

Ted

Ted...remember the axioms of TF.



1. Logic has no place on TF.


2. Just because it works for one person it won't always work (he got away with it because he didn't do it my way) seems to be the defense on TF when someone with experience states otherwise.


3. It's very common to assume the the poster has not thought through the whole problem and lacks experience.


4. What I do should work for everyone despite regions, boats, experiences, equipment, techniques, other variables.


5. Anchoring techniques remain the same despite differences in anchors.


ohhhh, anchor threads breed many more.....

 

[psneeld]

Interesting comment. As I grew older, my comfort level ebbed and I backed down all the time. Do you think that "age" has a lot to do with your anchor routine?

Just the opposite...experience is a savored and nurtured lesson. Success should never be accepted blindly though...but then experience has taught me which anchorages to mostly choose that even if my anchor fails or drags..the worst is a temporary grounding.


Yes as I said...I do back down occasionally....usually in situations where I can't minimize certain dangers or uncertainties. But I also know like some...many times I anchor, the chain is doing the holding overnight...the anchor doesn't even have to be there. Experience also teaches me to be able to predict that much of the time...so I leave the anchor attached.