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Old 04-13-2022, 01:22 PM   #21
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I haven't updated this thread in forever due to the slow progress but it is coming along. I am determined to finish this and mount it prior to launching the boat this spring. The outside is wrapped in 1708 biaxial cloth and I will be using multiple layers from the underside with will be hidden.

In hindsight, I probably should just built a mold and laid it up in a conventional fashion, instead I have essentially used the original platform and the extension of from fiberglass matt as the core and then sandwiched it between 1708 from both above and below. It is a cheap method of construction but labor intensive to get the finish right.

I still have a lot of work left to do.
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Old 04-13-2022, 01:43 PM   #22
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By the time you are done with it you will be an expert in glass work.
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Old 04-14-2022, 01:07 PM   #23
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It never occurred to me to repurpose an anchor pulpit from another boat! .
LOL I mounted a pulpit from a Bayliner to my old Mainship I. It fit perfectly using 4 bolts and a backing plate and held the boat while anchored thru many thunderstorms.
(Actually, it was from a partially sunken Bayliner)
I had a railing added to the existing railing and it looked like it came from the factory that way.
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Old 04-14-2022, 04:19 PM   #24
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The dimensions of this example are totally different but I plan to install an access port just like this example. That way I can reach the backside and secure some hardware to the pulpit rather than through the deck. The pulpit will be secured to the deck with 6 carriage bolts, spread over a larger area than each individual cleat would be bolted, so it will plenty secure.

There will be a tube inside to guide the rode to the locker but I am probably going to relocate my wash down hose under the pulpit, eventually, I'd like to add a fixed spray nozzle to the bottom, near the roller, so I can open a valve, flip on the salt water wash down pump and clean the chain remotely as I retrieve the rode.
Would love for you to do a post if you install a fixed spray nozzle. I've been wanting to do this for a long time. Mainly I'd like to find the nozzle to use. I saw one trawler that had two nozzles under the pulpit. They looked like a fire hose nozzle that was flexible/aimable
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Old 04-14-2022, 08:54 PM   #25
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Would love for you to do a post if you install a fixed spray nozzle. I've been wanting to do this for a long time. Mainly I'd like to find the nozzle to use. I saw one trawler that had two nozzles under the pulpit. They looked like a fire hose nozzle that was flexible/aimable
I haven't figured out the details yet but the plan is to glass in a PVC chase on either side of the pulpit and I will run copper tubing through these with a removable nozzle on each side, it will take some trial and error to find a nozzle effective for a relatively low flow and easy to service for sediment/corrosion from raw water. The copper tubing will allow me to manually adjust for the right angle while trying to say out of harm's way. i am sure I will mangle a few before I get it dialed in but they should be easy to replace.
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Old 04-14-2022, 09:21 PM   #26
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I haven't figured out the details yet but the plan is to glass in a PVC chase on either side of the pulpit and I will run copper tubing through these with a removable nozzle on each side, it will take some trial and error to find a nozzle effective for a relatively low flow and easy to service for sediment/corrosion from raw water. The copper tubing will allow me to manually adjust for the right angle while trying to say out of harm's way. i am sure I will mangle a few before I get it dialed in but they should be easy to replace.
Sounds like a good plan. The boat I saw had drilled through the hull/anchor locker area to mount the nozzles outside the hull under the bow pulpit. I was also thinking about attaching two high pressure wash down tubes to the side of my pulpit. I already have the outlet on the bow I use as a wash down. I would prefer the dual washdown spread to clean the chain more efficiently.
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Old 04-25-2022, 07:18 AM   #27
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I mounted the windlass and mocked it up with the anchor in place so I could check the roller positioning. I ended up adding a second roller to keep the chain from rubbing on the pulpit.
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Old 04-25-2022, 07:23 AM   #28
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How'd you do the second roller? I've been thinking of that modification for my pulpit in place of the metal wear plate I have now.

Also, consider adding a metal plate directly under the shank. With my Vulcan pulled up into a similar through-pulpit roller I found it necessary. When dropping the anchor, the shank falls and hits the pulpit in the split-second before the anchor starts to drop off the roller. Without the plate, it would have beaten up the top of the pulpit. In your case, the second roller might be enough to catch the shank, but I'd suggest testing for it.
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Old 04-25-2022, 07:47 AM   #29
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How'd you do the second roller? I've been thinking of that modification for my pulpit in place of the metal wear plate I have now.

Also, consider adding a metal plate directly under the shank. With my Vulcan pulled up into a similar through-pulpit roller I found it necessary. When dropping the anchor, the shank falls and hits the pulpit in the split-second before the anchor starts to drop off the roller. Without the plate, it would have beaten up the top of the pulpit. In your case, the second roller might be enough to catch the shank, but I'd suggest testing for it.
The yellow roller is mounted on a 3/8" bolt with a bronze bushing for the roller to roll. The bolt is mounted as high as possible in the stainless steel insert which can only be accessed when the insert is removed from the platform. I had to notch out the fiberglass in the for head of the bolt and nut of the bolt.

I'm planning to mount a section of starboard or cutting board material to the top of the platform to prevent the shank from tearing it up, something sacrificial. I'm also planning to mount my two bow cleats just forward of the windlass and as far apart as I can.
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Old 04-25-2022, 08:17 AM   #30
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The white gel coat is not the final finish, I have additional fairing to do on the front and outer edge but I wanted to get the top smooth enough to at least temporarily mount the windlass so I would could establish where the rode will be falling down through the deck and into the locker. I am just using a piece of 3" pvc pipe to guide the rode and prevent it from catching on the edge of the deck as it passes through the cavity under the platform and above the deck. I'll try and get the final gel color matched to some degree.

Next step will be to take it back to the boat and trim the bottom and sides to meet the deck and gunnel evenly, then I'm adding more reinforcement to the underside and glassing in the wash down chases. The fiberglass is roughly 1/2' thick now and not too cumbersome when stripped of the hardware and windlass, I don't want it any heavier than necessary as I'm trying to mock it up on the boat and mark it up for trimming.
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Old 04-25-2022, 09:52 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Gdavid View Post
I haven't figured out the details yet but the plan is to glass in a PVC chase on either side of the pulpit and I will run copper tubing through these with a removable nozzle on each side, it will take some trial and error to find a nozzle effective for a relatively low flow and easy to service for sediment/corrosion from raw water. The copper tubing will allow me to manually adjust for the right angle while trying to say out of harm's way. i am sure I will mangle a few before I get it dialed in but they should be easy to replace.
When I installed a nozzle to spray on the chain, I mounted it to the underside of the pulpit board, a couple of inches back of the chain, so right under the roller. I used a piece of 1/2" copper water pipe, with the nozzle formed by flattening the pipe in a vice. It took only a couple of tries to get the correct amount of flattening, so that the pressure of my salt water pump created a fan of salt water against the chain that is adequate to dislodge mud from the rising chain. That nozzle is attached to a pex water pipe that is T-d off the saltwater line as it comes up through the deck and connects to the bow washdown hose.
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Old 05-21-2022, 07:26 AM   #32
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Getting close, here it is set in place, I am waiting for my last two carriage bolts to arrive and then I can finish bolting it down. The PVC rode chase is in place, I need need to seal the top with some caulk and at the deck joint but every is pre-drilled and already test fit for the windlass. The access port at the rear allows me great access to hardware. I have not installed the washdown lines yet but I have a chase for one on each side and a hole through the deck so I can add it soon.
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Old 05-21-2022, 11:03 AM   #33
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Looks fantastic! Well done.
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Old 05-21-2022, 11:12 AM   #34
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“I'm planning to mount a section of starboard or cutting board material to the top of the platform to prevent the shank from tearing it up, something sacrificial.”

I doubt the starboard would ever wear out but it needs fastners-no sealant will stick to it for long.
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Old 05-21-2022, 01:35 PM   #35
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Looks great. The sacrificial Starboard is very practical.
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Old 05-21-2022, 05:44 PM   #36
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The starboard isn't in place yet but will be easy to install, i will drill and tap the fiberglass at the corners of the piece. The thing is solid glass, no core so adding stuff to it is straightforward. I was in a rush to get it mounted as it replaces the single bollard that was on the bow, without it I had nothing to put bow lines on and I am scheduled to launch this week. It has been a busy day, I painted the bottom, gelcoated a repair to the gunnel (inherited docking damage) and mounted the windlass and anchor.

I still need to finish wiring up the windlass but I tested it with a jumper box and the anchor came up smoothly.
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Old 05-21-2022, 11:42 PM   #37
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Very nice job! Your selection and installation appear very similar to mine.

I love my Lewmar 1000 on a self launching roller. It's been extremely reliable with frequent single-handed anchorings while sturgeon fishing.
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Old 06-06-2022, 09:35 AM   #38
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I finally put the pulpit and windlass in use for the first time this past weekend. I still need to run the control wiring to both helm stations but I installed a wireless control box sold for bumper winches and it worked great, $19 kit that comes with two remotes, highly recommend. The anchor tried to come up backwards twice but after dunking it back into the water it came up correctly. Satisfying result and on to the next projects of installing an autohelm and cleaning up my 12 volt wiring circuits.
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Old 06-06-2022, 09:42 AM   #39
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I finally put the pulpit and windlass in use for the first time this past weekend. I still need to run the control wiring to both helm stations but I installed a wireless control box sold for bumper winches and it worked great, $19 kit that comes with two remotes, highly recommend. The anchor tried to come up backwards twice but after dunking it back into the water it came up correctly. Satisfying result and on to the next projects of installing an autohelm and cleaning up my 12 volt wiring circuits.
I've been using a similar cheap winch remote for a couple of years now with great success.
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Old 06-06-2022, 04:33 PM   #40
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I finally put the pulpit and windlass in use for the first time this past weekend. I still need to run the control wiring to both helm stations but I installed a wireless control box sold for bumper winches and it worked great, $19 kit that comes with two remotes, highly recommend. The anchor tried to come up backwards twice but after dunking it back into the water it came up correctly. Satisfying result and on to the next projects of installing an autohelm and cleaning up my 12 volt wiring circuits.
Great to hear. Do you have a link to the remote you used?
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