Anchor line

[jclays]

Originally Posted by Shrew

You'll need to consider the windlasses functional lifting power. 5/16 G40 is about 1.10lb/ft. Add a 44 lb anchor that is 100 Lbs dead weight when vertical. Now you still have to break the anchor free and lift it.

Actually you’ll need to consider your boats ground tackle needs and replace your windlass to the correct windlass for that gear.

[jclays]

Originally Posted by Shrew

You'll need to consider the windlasses functional lifting power. 5/16 G40 is about 1.10lb/ft. Add a 44 lb anchor that is 100 Lbs dead weight when vertical. Now you still have to break the anchor free and lift it.

You’ll actually need to consider the boats ground tackle needs and size your windlass accordingly.

[Nomad Willy]

I’ve been using Brait (assuming it’s “8 plait) ... is it?

I have and use a horizontal capstan to weigh my anchors. And I’ve alway had a problem w the line pulling to port. To such an extent that it’s all I can do to keep the line from jumping off the drum. Then, of course it ties itself in a knot.

Does anyone know if my problem has anything to do w my using the Brait?

[AKDoug]

Originally Posted by Nomad Willy

I’ve been using Brait (assuming it’s “8 plait) ... is it?

I have and use a horizontal capstan to weigh my anchors. And I’ve alway had a problem w the line pulling to port. To such an extent that it’s all I can do to keep the line from jumping off the drum. Then, of course it ties itself in a knot.

Does anyone know if my problem has anything to do w my using the Brait?

Brait is "grabby" on the drum, less ability to slip across the face of the drum since it has more surface area coming into contact with the drum. The line on the drum forces the line (to port on your drum) since it can't slip. Most lines under load won't slip very well across the drum, which is why the chainwheel that can also handle line would be preferred.