Anchor Chain Frozen

[Sea Buzzard]

Need help...ideas ...anything

I am working on re-fitting new boat to me and I have discovered that the Anchor chain is completely frozen, it looks like it was not moved for at least 20 years...
The only access I got is from a small hatch at the V-birth which I can see the chain as a big pile of rusted and frozen steel, it does not even resemble a chain any longer..

I am looking for ideas to remove the pile of steel, I cannot move or shake or unfreeze it... and in any case it will not fit as is through the hatch even if I was strong enough to move it...
using a torch does not seem to be a good idea on a boat... so I am contemplating trying WD-40, Vinegar etc.

any suggestions are welcomed

 

[Brisyboy]

Its not very nautical I know but I would get a long crow bar (breaker bar?) not sure of the name you`all call them but they are about 5 feet long and heavy - used for digging (and breaking up anchor chain) and beat the bejeesus out of it with the pointy end.

 

[Pau Hana]

Use a small sledge to break up the mess, then cut into sections with a grinder.

 

[Comodave]

Use a small sledge to break up the mess, then cut into sections with a grinder.

That is how I would do it.

 

[D.Duck44]

Maybe a cheap electric jackhammer or an air chisel.

 

[High Wire]

3 pound sledge, hammer drill, air hammer, etc. Take your time. It will come out eventually with mechanical agitation and tension. Just don't cut it off and leave a pile of rusted steel.

 

[Peter B]

Maybe after freeing enough up following the above kind of actions, you could fix the end to the dock somehow - strong bollard - something like that - then you could haul the rest out of the locker, bypassing the winch, by slowly backing out of the berth, cutting the chain with an angle grinder once about 20-30 metres has come out, then head back into the berth, repeating the process until it's all clear, taking extreme care obviously. Surely just rusted chain can't be stuck together all that strongly - rust has no real tensile strength. Just a thought..?

 

[FF]

If you can find an end use a lump hammer to break the chain loose link by link.

Do not use chemicals as you will smell them forever , even after scrubbing out the locker.

Rust means water is getting in , so do some hammering on a rain day and watch for a leak.

 

[bayview]

That it truly a first for me. I cant imagine how it could become a blob. I would try beating with a drilling hammer. ( short handle heavy hammer)

You can rent a small electric jackhammer as used to remove tile flooring.
Wear a mask.

 

[OldDan1943]

secure the anchor to something stout and back down slowly until you can determine you are making progress. Get a 2 pound sledge hammer to encourage progress. Might take a while to accomplish your desire. I would not put the same chain back in. Buy certified hot galvanized chain.
I agree with others, look for a water leak. The pulpit may need to be re-calked.
My N46 had facilities for 2 rodes ..... Used expandable foam in the port for the second (rope) rode. On my N46, between re-calking the pulpit and the foam on the rope port, problem solved.

 

[DDW]

Is the chain locker watertight (or can the limber hole be plugged)? If so use Evaporust. This is completely non-toxic and will not harm anything even if it ends up in the bilge. Pour it in covering the chain. Agitate from time to time. May take a few hours to dissolve the rust. If the chain frees up, I'd remove it and then pump the Evaporust overboard, rinse out the locker.

 

[Sea Buzzard]

thank you all

will start with a chisel/craw bar and hammer and if not working will try with Electric Jackhammer (loaner) and grinder
may have to cut to chain to link pieces …
Definitely not planning on using the same chain or parts of it, I did identify however a source of leak in the locker and will fix it once I clear the blob of steel

 

[wkearney99]

Be mindful that any chemicals you use will leave odors behind. So I'd shy away from various penetrating oils and the like.

A long masonry chisel would probably help. One with a handle around the end to help avoid hitting yourself. Likewise a set of handled pry bars, as they're less likely to bend than repurposed screwdrivers.

Get enough of it pried apart to perhaps let you get at it with an angle grinder.

But be very careful about flying debris. Wear a face shield or enclosed goggles (not just glasses). You do not want hot particles getting in your eyes (or lungs, for that matter). Or setting anything else nearby on fire.

Just be mindful that grinders are a quick way to make a big mess of anything if you're not very careful about keeping that insanely fast spinning wheel solidly controlled. I'd go with a metal diamond wheel, and have a second on-hand in the event the first one wears out. I would not use a ceramic disc because of potentially having the wheel bind and shatter. Whatever the blade, DO NOT USE IT WITHOUT THE BLADE GUARD. A face shield WILL NOT protect you if the blade disintegrates.

 

[wkearney99]

And I wouldn't use a jackhammer, you'd be transferring a lot of vibration from the chain to the adjacent hull/structure, potentially causing cracks and/or other problems.

 

[OldDan1943]

Whatever you try, wear eye protection, dust mask, gloves and good ventilation too.

 

[Lollygag1]

Prybar and profanity should do the trick. End result will be a freed anchor chain and a sore back.

 

[Sea Buzzard]

So.. Just to further explain the gravity of the situation .. here are some pictures

 

[Solly]

Good Lord !!

 

[Sea Buzzard]

I guess the previous owner (and the one before) were not much of "on the hook" guys ...
the boat is Marine Trader 40' from 1978 - I assume that this is the original purchased chain

 

[Lollygag1]

What other surprises did they leave you?

 

[Sea Buzzard]

actually this is the only real surprise .. the boat is otherwise in great condition, both engines are 1300 hrs,
everything except of the Anchor and Heating system are working great.
minor things -more of Maintenance - were neglected, like Nav lights etc

the boat was purchased on the paper (not seeing or examined ahead) came few weeks ego from Tacoma WA to Vancouver BC on the water with zero problems, and some issues were expected (however I did not take it on the hard yet)

 

[Sidclark]

Yep, a two pound hammer should work that out. I would have a shop vac right there to suck up all the scale as it comes off...

 

[Brisyboy]

Its a mess all right but with the application of a bit of force I think it will break up and you may be able to get quite a bit of it out via the top - messy job though, on deck, in the fore cabin with dust and the bilge if that's where the chain locker drains.

Leaks (rain) into the chain locker aren`t the cause of the rust - the fact is it comes back into the locker wet from salt water and drips onto the dry chain that wasn`t deployed. Not much ventilation and a damp salt laden atmosphere is what caused this chain to rust up - and lack of use.

 

[firehoser75]

You should work on that carefully. With a bit of work, and some sandpaper it may be reusable


No matter the method, that is going to be ONE VERY MESSY JOB. Be safe!

 

[SoWhat]

Little WD-40 will fix it right up.

 

[MacPhid]

Well that's just nasty looking chain. Perhaps an automotive air hammer with chisel or pointed tip to break up the rust. They are small and easily manoeuverable to work with in the anchor locker.

James

 

[OldDan1943]

I think it is alive.

 

[wkearney99]

Well, dang, that's nasty. Though when you said small opening I was envisioning one of those awful 6" round access hatches.

The fact that it's vented to the interior... ugh, the smells. Though I suppose a chain sprayed down during retrieval wouldn't smell as bad as wet nylon rode.

If the bottom of the locker has any flat surface you might want to consider putting some Drydeck or other grated tile down. That'll help let the water drain from the chain.

 

[Pete Meisinger]

Really too bad you can't get it out in one piece. It would make a great piece of "Yard Art"

pete

 

[Arc]

Is that Jack Sparrow’s boat? I few have said air chisel. That would work or a good hammer drill with a hammer head on it. Don’t worry about any surrounding damage . That lump of crap will need a good bit of hammering.