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12-12-2022, 02:51 PM
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#21
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Guru
City: Southport, FL near Panama City
Vessel Name: FROLIC
Vessel Model: Mainship 30 Pilot II since 2015. GB-42 1986-2015. Former Unlimited Tonnage Master
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,622
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Simi, you are doing your proper due diligence in your inspection of our mooring tackle. Well done, sir.
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Rich Gano
FROLIC (2005 MainShip 30 Pilot II)
Panama City area
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12-12-2022, 04:41 PM
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#22
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Guru
City: Queensland
Vessel Model: Milkraft 60 converted timber prawn trawler
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 4,934
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rslifkin
If you start to experience a similar failure again, it may be time to up-size the snubber a bit. With larger line you'd need to make it longer to get enough stretch, but the end product wouldn't be loaded as close to its breaking strength, so it would last longer and you'd be less likely to develop a failure like this quickly (meaning more chance to notice the problem before it fails entirely).
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The 20mm is fine and has served us well in all conditions thrown at us over the past 6 years of full time cruising.
It's us that was the issue
We should not have left the short snubber on in boisterous conditions, we don't usually.
But, now we know it's limit.
We have a short snubber for 95% of our anchoring needs simply because a longer one starts going green when in the water after several days - short one stops at water.
__________________
Everything on a boat is broken, you just don't know it yet
Full time cruising is repairing boats in exotic locations
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12-12-2022, 09:11 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
City: Newport
Vessel Name: Privateer
Vessel Model: Kadey Krogen 52
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt Ray
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I think this approach is much better than relying on stretch in the line. With this, the snubber can be sized stronger than the chain and the dock edge absorbs any shock loads.
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12-12-2022, 09:39 PM
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#24
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Moderator Emeritus
City: Au Gres, MI
Vessel Name: Black Dog
Vessel Model: Formula 41PC
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 18,558
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Porgy
I’ve read in a few places and from a couple old salts that using hose or plastic tube for chafe is not good. The abrasion of nylon strands as they are stretched and contract under load is a large contributing factor in chafe. The plastic hose prevents water from cooling and lubricating the line at that point. Just a thought.
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This. You want a porous chaffing guard so the line can get wet and cool down.
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Boat Nut:
If you are one there is no explanation necessary.
If you aren’t one, there is no explanation possible.
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12-12-2022, 11:58 PM
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#25
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Guru
City: Queensland
Vessel Model: Milkraft 60 converted timber prawn trawler
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 4,934
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Comodave
This. You want a porous chaffing guard so the line can get wet and cool down.
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Where does the water come from?
It's not always raining when it's blowing.
__________________
Everything on a boat is broken, you just don't know it yet
Full time cruising is repairing boats in exotic locations
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12-13-2022, 01:06 AM
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#26
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Moderator Emeritus
City: Au Gres, MI
Vessel Name: Black Dog
Vessel Model: Formula 41PC
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 18,558
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simi 60
Where does the water come from?
It's not always raining when it's blowing.
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Not always but if it is storming it may be raining. But if it is waterproof then no water can get in even if it is raining.
__________________
Boat Nut:
If you are one there is no explanation necessary.
If you aren’t one, there is no explanation possible.
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12-13-2022, 04:45 AM
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#27
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Guru
City: Here and there
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 522
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Comodave
Not always but if it is storming it may be raining. But if it is waterproof then no water can get in even if it is raining.
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That, and I could’ve swore I also wrote that plastic hose inhibits the heat escaping but guess my typing fingers weren’t keeping up with my brain.
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12-13-2022, 08:19 AM
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#28
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Guru
City: Miami
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 736
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Simi, How much longer did it measure from original, I’m guessing you exceeded the working load by more than 30 percent. Also what’s the bend radius of your chock? From the photo there are a few different things happening which is why we switched our snubbers from twisted 1” and 3/4” to 5/8” 8 strand plaited nylon. We have also replaced them at least yearly since they are always exposed to the sun or submerged for weeks in the water. Between the critters, salt and uv they get pretty rough by the end of our summers. We use 3 snubbers of known elasticities and an adjustable one which can brace any or all of the others as needed. Our shortest one is set up for winds up to 35 knots and in use lives under water. As the snubbers wear and stretch they get too long to stow in their normal positions on deck so we know exactly when it’s time to make new ones. Stretch is a pretty good warning flag.
SailorGreg, I’ve mentioned it before on here that with sufficient catenary you don’t ever need a snubber….until you do, and that’s why we almost always put ours out. Ours was big and heavy and a bit of a pain to rig so I decided there must be a better solution. I’ve found using smaller stretchier snubbers allows the chain catenary to be available at higher wind loads than you would normally expect to see. A stretchy snubber sized a bit lighter than the chain’s catenary force becomes the first line of defense against chain and anchor snatch loads. We usually anchor with enough chain catenary for 35 knots and our no 1 snubber stretches around 10% at this wind speed. Once the sustained wind exceeds 35 both the catenary and the snubber work side by side until around 50 knots. If we expect greater than 40 knots we start with our number 2 snubber. No 2 stretches 10% at 50 knots but has sufficient length to absorb the waves that come with these winds. We then brace our number 2 with our number 1 so 2 5/8” snubbers one loaded to 10% and the other to 20% and we still aren’t yanking on the chain or anchor.
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12-15-2022, 03:23 PM
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#29
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Veteran Member
City: Gig Harbor, WA
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 54
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SIMI: We switched from the clear PVC chafe guard to the wire-reinforced version and saw a huge improvement in protection. (9/16 size on 55,000 lbs with chain slotted SS plate)
Also noted previously the heat from friction was with the PVC movement against the hawse hole surface and not so much from the nylon line, internally. So your's looks very unusual from here.
Have also used CHAFE PRO for a 3 ply nylon towline for years. Can't say enough about that product and its longevity. Well worth the price.
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03-12-2023, 11:16 PM
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#30
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Guru
City: Queensland
Vessel Model: Milkraft 60 converted timber prawn trawler
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 4,934
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Had the same happen with the storm snubber after a sustained blow for several days a month or so back.
Am experimenting now with
20mm nylon from Sampson post to about a foot behind the roller with a thimble and eye splice
From there and over the roller in Dyneema
Then back to a thimble, eysplice and 20mm nylon in whatever length needed given the weather.
Thinking we can then not worry about the hose cover and the dyneemas superior chafe resistance will hopefully be the end of the problem.
__________________
Everything on a boat is broken, you just don't know it yet
Full time cruising is repairing boats in exotic locations
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03-13-2023, 09:19 AM
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#31
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Guru
City: Seattle
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 2,906
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Not a bad idea Simi. Short leader of Dyneema or even just old-fashioned chain, pretty much eliminates the chafe guard-fire hose part of the equation.
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03-18-2023, 11:14 AM
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#32
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Senior Member
City: Long Beach Ca
Vessel Name: Freebird
Vessel Model: 1997 Mainship 350
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 436
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I normally don't have any chafe protection on my lines. I make sure that my deck chocks that my line runs thru is clean and smooth. I check my lines at every visit if I'm at the docks. If I'm on the hook or a mooring ball I check several times a day and before bed. I'll reposition lines if the water has been bumpy and there has been plenty movement if only to change points of strain. I don't like not seeing the rope covered by the chafe protection.
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03-18-2023, 12:51 PM
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#33
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Guru
City: Newport, R.I.
Vessel Name: Hippocampus
Vessel Model: Nordic Tug 42
Join Date: Jul 2020
Posts: 3,027
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Line heats up under strain. Particularly bad if covered and cycling strain/no strain. Some would argue it weakens line over time. Others say covers trap salt crystals and dirt. They say those can cut the fibers of line when it cycles strain/no strain. In spite of this have used discarded fire hose at times. Nylon isn’t abrasion resistant and will chafe quickly and badly. Fortunately not that expensive so can be replaced without a mortgage. Ideally a snubber run should have no chafe points so need no line protection but sometimes unavoidable. I purchased some very thin bendable SS plates with adhesive on the back. That does provide a very smooth surface and allows avoiding a covering. I do play a hose on dock lines whenever I can. In the tropics then spray them with bug killer (bop) and after it rains. No cockroaches.
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03-18-2023, 02:10 PM
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#34
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Moderator Emeritus
City: Au Gres, MI
Vessel Name: Black Dog
Vessel Model: Formula 41PC
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 18,558
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hippocampus
Line heats up under strain. Particularly bad if covered and cycling strain/no strain. Some would argue it weakens line over time. Others say covers trap salt crystals and dirt. They say those can cut the fibers of line when it cycles strain/no strain. In spite of this have used discarded fire hose at times. Nylon isn’t abrasion resistant and will chafe quickly and badly. Fortunately not that expensive so can be replaced without a mortgage. Ideally a snubber run should have no chafe points so need no line protection but sometimes unavoidable. I purchased some very thin bendable SS plates with adhesive on the back. That does provide a very smooth surface and allows avoiding a covering. I do play a hose on dock lines whenever I can. In the tropics then spray them with bug killer (bop) and after it rains. No cockroaches.
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I use the Davis Chafe Protectors. They are heavy duty nylon with Velcro to hold them in place. They will let water into the line they are protecting so it helps keep the lines cooler and help prevent overheating of the line. I have not had the nylon covers get any significant wear. But they are sacrificial anyway. They are simple to put on and I have never had them come loose.
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03-18-2023, 03:04 PM
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#35
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Guru
City: Queensland
Vessel Model: Milkraft 60 converted timber prawn trawler
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 4,934
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Comodave
I use the Davis Chafe Protectors. They are heavy duty nylon with Velcro to hold them in place. They will let water into the line they are protecting so it helps keep the lines cooler and help prevent overheating of the linee.
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Again, only any good if you have rain
Which we have not
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hippocampus
Ideally a snubber run should have no chafe points so need no line protection but sometimes unavoidable.
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Ours runs over a shiny, smooth roller made from some form of hard plastic of about 4 inch radius.
There is nothing there that is abrasive
I think it's a point load thing
The Dyneema seems to be handling it fine, just a bit freaky seeing this big meaty 20mm ending and pencil thin dyneema going over the roller.
__________________
Everything on a boat is broken, you just don't know it yet
Full time cruising is repairing boats in exotic locations
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03-18-2023, 03:09 PM
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#36
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Moderator Emeritus
City: Au Gres, MI
Vessel Name: Black Dog
Vessel Model: Formula 41PC
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 18,558
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Bucket of water???
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Boat Nut:
If you are one there is no explanation necessary.
If you aren’t one, there is no explanation possible.
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03-18-2023, 03:15 PM
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#37
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Guru
City: Queensland
Vessel Model: Milkraft 60 converted timber prawn trawler
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 4,934
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Comodave
Bucket of water???
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Sleep?
We have a deck hose..
__________________
Everything on a boat is broken, you just don't know it yet
Full time cruising is repairing boats in exotic locations
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03-18-2023, 03:19 PM
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#38
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Moderator Emeritus
City: Au Gres, MI
Vessel Name: Black Dog
Vessel Model: Formula 41PC
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 18,558
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simi 60
Sleep?
We have a deck hose..
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If you soak it before you go to bed it will likely stay wet most of the night. If not when you get up to check the anchor wet it down again. You do get up to check the anchor, right?
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Boat Nut:
If you are one there is no explanation necessary.
If you aren’t one, there is no explanation possible.
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03-18-2023, 03:36 PM
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#39
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Guru
City: Queensland
Vessel Model: Milkraft 60 converted timber prawn trawler
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 4,934
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Comodave
If you soak it before you go to bed it will likely stay wet most of the night. If not when you get up to check the anchor wet it down again.
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But if using salt water it could be argued that salt becomes an abrasive in itself
If using dyneema there will be no water retention anyway, but it also has superior chafe/abrasion resistance.
Quote:
You do get up to check the anchor, right?
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Nope, it's way down there doing its thing, but I do check the snubber on occasion during a prolonged strong wind period
It's how I picked up on the issues in the first place
__________________
Everything on a boat is broken, you just don't know it yet
Full time cruising is repairing boats in exotic locations
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03-18-2023, 06:14 PM
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#40
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Guru
City: Miami
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 736
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With that bend radius I don’t think you have point loading problem. I think it was a simply a two snubber night and you only had one out. That’s exactly what three strand does when it’s overworked.
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