Xantrex 458

[larman]

I’m having an issue with my xantrex 458. When inverting from 12v to 120v the electric is pulsating every few seconds. 120v lights are flickering. Any ideas on what could cause this?

[STB]

It may be a hard failure.

Is the unit a new install?
Is this problem new or longtime?
Have any new AC devices been added recently?

Does it happen under a very light load? What about a very heavy load?

I'd check battery voltage directly at the input to the unit. If good, I'd set the minimum voltage setting down to zero or disable battery protection and see what happens. If the unit can display DC voltage, I'd check to see what it reports. It should throw an error code, but I'd check.

Next, I'd fully disconnect the AC input wires and see what happens. There could be an electrical problem generating feedback and the unit is chasing itself.

Next, I'd load the heck out of it and see what happens. Then barely load it, just enough for it to come on. The goal is to see if it is overloading or not detecting a load and going off. It should throw an error code in either case, but I'd check. If I'd find that one load level causes a problem.and another doesn't, I'd vary the devices a bunch and see if ai could confirm. That the load level was the problem or isolate it to a single device or set of devices or type of devices.

I have access to an oscilloscope, so I'd look at the output waveform to see what is happening, if it is malformed or cutting in and out. I'd also look at the input, just to be sure it is DC without significant AC.

Then I'd listen at the unit to see if I could hear the output relay or contactor clicking. Then open it and measure voltage across it to see if it was being held open or breaking. Then I'd measure the output to see if it lines up. If possible, I'd measure them simultaneously with truly analog meters or a scope. The goalnis to see if output tracks control and if control is steady or breaking. I'd be looking for a bad output relay or contactor.

The goal is to see if there is a DC input issue, an AC input issue, and AC output load issue, a sensor input issue, a waveform issue, an output switching issue, or a control issue.

Once I'd isolated the problem to one of those concerns I'd looknat the associated attributes of the installation, settings, sources, syncs, etc, to see if the problem could be bypassed (to test or until repair/replacement), repaird, or reconfigured to solution.

[larman]

I have had this unit for a few years, never used it. Got new batteries and was trying her out. I am running 2 circuits of my panel. Not running anything to crazy.

[tiltrider1]

The unit is a modified sine wave. This might be the cause of the flickering.

[larman]

I just want to be able to run my fridge overnight while on the hook. Going to call Xantrex customer support and see if they can help.

[twistedtree]

Check to see if the inverter is in "Search" mode. Most inverters have this, though the name might be different. It sense load, and if it doesn't think there is any, the inverter will shut off, then periodically turn back on briefly to see if there is a load. It sounds like yours is switching back and forth between running and search mode, which is a common problem with a very light load. Dig out the manual and check out this feature. It might be an easy fix by just turning it off, or changing the load threshold that causes it to go in/out of search more.

[larman]

I have checked the manual so not see anything about search mode. What you are saying makes sense though.

[STB]

If your only goal is a refrigerator, you might consider getting a point of use inverter for just that load.

There is a lot of discussion on the forum about this with different perspectives, but I am if the opinion that a point of use inverter; i.e. one located in the cabin, without the ability to charge, serving one appliance, and located proximal to that appliance; can be treated like an appliance, any other single point consumer of AC, and need not have a marine rating, .

In other words, I think you can go to Home Depot or Lowe's or Best Buy and buy a quality inverter with the right capacity for just the refrigerator, and save a bunch of money and complexity.I wouldn't quite go Harbor Freight. And, I'd probably want a UL or equivalent rating. You'd be surprised how inexpensive they are and how quickly they can be installed.

The reason is that they do not have both shore AC and DC within the same box, so avoid risks associated with that. Instead, like any other device you've got, they just consume AC power and do work with it.

Just be careful to make sure connections are good, etc. For example, don't let bare stranded wire get directly screwed down with a screw meant for solid wire. If this comes up crimp on a ferrule or use a screw terminal (or some people tin the end to make it solid, but not my favorite approach), etc.

Good luck!

[twistedtree]

Originally Posted by larman

I have checked the manual so not see anything about search mode. What you are saying makes sense though.

They call it Idle. The threshold appears to be adjustable via the remote control panel. Maybe it can be set to zero to disable it.



Inverter Idle Circuit
This automatic energy saving feature reduces battery power consumption when no AC load is present. Response from idle is instantaneous. In most cases, the opera- tion of the idle circuit is not noticeable. Use of the Remote Control Panel or Link Instru- mentation allows the idle threshold to be ad- justed. The unit does not put out 120 volts when in idle. To bring the unit out of the idle condition, apply a load.

[larman]

I set the idle to less than 10 which is the lowest setting. I think this thing is shot.

[larman]

I think this the way to go, just have to figure how to wire it so I don’t have to move out the fridge everyone I want to use the inverter.


QUOTE=STB;1196460]If your only goal is a refrigerator, you might consider getting a point of use inverter for just that load.

There is a lot of discussion on the forum about this with different perspectives, but I am if the opinion that a point of use inverter; i.e. one located in the cabin, without the ability to charge, serving one appliance, and located proximal to that appliance; can be treated like an appliance, any other single point consumer of AC, and need not have a marine rating, .

In other words, I think you can go to Home Depot or Lowe's or Best Buy and buy a quality inverter with the right capacity for just the refrigerator, and save a bunch of money and complexity.I wouldn't quite go Harbor Freight. And, I'd probably want a UL or equivalent rating. You'd be surprised how inexpensive they are and how quickly they can be installed.

The reason is that they do not have both shore AC and DC within the same box, so avoid risks associated with that. Instead, like any other device you've got, they just consume AC power and do work with it.

Just be careful to make sure connections are good, etc. For example, don't let bare stranded wire get directly screwed down with a screw meant for solid wire. If this comes up crimp on a ferrule or use a screw terminal (or some people tin the end to make it solid, but not my favorite approach), etc.

Good luck![/QUOTE]

[SteveK]

What wattage inverter do you have? the 848 starts with 1000w
What is the voltage of battery when it cuts out? It will cut out at 10v and above 15.5v.
You said 2 new batteries, what is the Ah? Are they deep cycle?
What control panel are you using? Can the idle be turned off?
If plugged into shore power does it cut out as when it is inverting?

Could be the batteries cannot maintain a voltage higher than 10v when the draw of fridge (and other items) is higher than continuius output watt rating and it shuts off and restarts.

[larman]

I have two 250ah agm batteries.

[TG]

Since you are just getting around to trying it since it was installed. Check the wiring and insure the Neutrals on the output are isolated from the Neutrals on the input. You need a separate Neutral bus for all loads on the output side of the inverter.