Wiring a 2 lead windlass for in and out

[patzfan4eva]

Has anyone wired a two lead windlass for in and out? I need help designing the wiring diagram to accomplish this goal.

Thanks!

David

 

[Forkliftt]

Has anyone wired a two lead windlass for in and out? I need help designing the wiring diagram to accomplish this goal.

Thanks!

David

Hey David,By two lead you mean when you change polarity you change direction? DC drive motors on an electric forklift change direction but they use 2 wires for the armature and two for the fields.

 

[meridian]

How is it set up now? Where is the switch , on the case or a foot switch? Is it a 2-way windlass? I just did my Powerwinch unit last week using a DPDT spring loaded toggle switch. I'll post up a diagram later.

 

[psneeld]

this help?

 

[meridian]

This is how I did mine with a DPDT toggle switch. Since the switch was on the case, I did not use a relay. My Powerwinch just had 2 connections on the motor. As you look at the drawing, the polarity for the battery or motor connections is not an issue.

 

[patzfan4eva]

Thanks for the info, I'll need to take the cover off again and see if its a DC motor, has more tgan two leads etc. More to come after the weekend.

 

[Vyndance]

If it is a 2 wire reversing motor, Lewmar Part # 0052519 will do the job. DPDT 100 amp with built in crossover and faceplate for around 65 bucks.

 

[Phil Fill]

You can buy a up/down reversing solenoid at West Marine for about 100 to 200 bucks.

 

[patzfan4eva]

Search Results at West Marine

Here is what West Marine shows, I'm pretty good an electric but wiring this may be above my exp level. Once I verify the leads on the windlass (old) I can speak to it better. Has any TT owner done this before, expecting them to have a similar windlass like mine. I'll post pics and more info over the weekend!

 

[rwidman]

Those wiring diagrams are fine, but it's important to remember that and switches, relays, contactors, etc., as well as the cables must be able to handle the current draw of the windlass. This is probably in the neighborhood of sixty amps.

Don't forget overcurrent protection (fuse or circuit breaker and not shown in either of the diagrams) for the wiring. This needs to be located as near to the source as practical.

 

[rwidman]

Search Results at West Marine

Here is what West Marine shows, I'm pretty good an electric but wiring this may be above my exp level. Once I verify the leads on the windlass (old) I can speak to it better. Has any TT owner done this before, expecting them to have a similar windlass like mine. I'll post pics and more info over the weekend!

You might do better with this:
LEWMAR Windlass Control Solenoids at West Marine

 

[Shoalwaters]

Has anyone wired a two lead windlass for in and out? I need help designing the wiring diagram to accomplish this goal.

Thanks!

David

David,

If you have not done so, I suggest you read the posts in the thread below. Some of your questions may be answered there. Please post a picture of your windlass.

http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s3/up-only-type-windless-6589.html

 

[patzfan4eva]

Thanks, good information. Need to identify the motor and wiring first then I can build this thing!

 

[patzfan4eva]

Mike,

Your windlass looks just like mine, same barrel and case. Is it a DC motor or is there a third lead for directional control?

Thanks for the thread.

 

[rwidman]

Thanks, good information. Need to identify the motor and wiring first then I can build this thing!

If your windlass is designed and built for "up" only operation, simply reversing the wires isn't going to turn it into a two way windlass.

The best thing you can do for yourself is to get a copy of the installation and operating instructions for the windlass and study them.

 

[patzfan4eva]

Oh, I thought it was a DC motor that I could reverse polarity and achieve my goal. Sounds like I'm going to have to do some more research.

 

[Shoalwaters]

Mike,

Your windlass looks just like mine, same barrel and case. Is it a DC motor or is there a third lead for directional control?

Thanks for the thread.

These things are really trailer winches with an aluminium cover. They have a relatively small DC motor, hence the slowness of rotation. As you may have read, I made mine reversable by changing out the locking bearing for a conventional one and installing a reversing solenoid. My windlass only had two wires leading to an external foot switch. It only has two wires now, but they go to the solenoid.

 

[honeybadger]

I had one of the dual selonid type, My current project came with only the Windless and nothing else, Two wires and i bought a Heavy duty dual pole normall off switch with two on positions, How i wired it was one side + and - the other side -and + , the center poles went to the windless, On the hot side i have a breaker , This makes it when switched up the wires going to the windless is Hot red and Neg yellow when switched down it reverses the polarity to Hot yellow and Neg Red. So it reverses the motor, I have a large #4 wire from the battery bank to the breaker and then #6 from there to the windless,

 

[psneeld]

Aswas just posted in another windlass thread and earlier in this one...if the winlass WASN'T designed to be reversing, mamage may occur if you do. Many are...but some aren't I guess.

 

[bglad]

Aswas just posted in another windlass thread and earlier in this one...if the winlass WASN'T designed to be reversing, mamage may occur if you do. Many are...but some aren't I guess.

Good point. Before you start make sure both poles on the DC motor are isolated from the case. The windlass case is supposed to be grounded and if the negative pole is not isolated from the case and you send positive to it you will make a dead short. If both poles are isolated from the case you will probably be OK.

 

[rwidman]

Good point. Before you start make sure both poles on the DC motor are isolated from the case. The windlass case is supposed to be grounded and if the negative pole is not isolated from the case and you send positive to it you will make a dead short. If both poles are isolated from the case you will probably be OK.

Why is the windlass case supposed to be grounded?

Mine is not and the installation instructions say nothing about "grounding" the case. I don't remember any ABYC or other requirement to ground the windlass housing.

Of course if you have a metal boat, it would be grounded, but not on a typical fiberglass (or wooden) boat.

 

[bglad]

That is the rule but I never find them done that way and in some special instance it might be important. Speaking in general terms the point of my post was to elaborate on one reason reversing polarity of the motor could cause a problem.

 

[meridian]

On my motor, the case is the negative point.

 

[rwidman]

On my motor, the case is the negative point.

I'm not sure what post you're responding to, but a windlass that runs "both ways" does so by reversing the polarity to the motor. In the case of my Lewmar, if one power lead was connected to the windlass housing, it would be negative in one mode (up or down) and positive in the other.

I'm not at my boat (or even near it), but my money is on no electrical connection to the housing.