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Old 09-30-2022, 02:39 PM   #1
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Wire butt splice

Tried the new to me butt splices that have a ring of solder and also is a clear heat shrink. No crimping. Slide the two ends into each other, slide the splice over the bare wire then heat till the solder melts and the heat shrink shrinks. Installed a new bilge pump and float switch with these.
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Old 09-30-2022, 03:03 PM   #2
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Sounds interesting. Link?
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Old 09-30-2022, 05:15 PM   #3
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From a Cruising World article: If you’re still wondering if soldering is better, remember that American Boat & Yacht Council Standards exclude solder as the sole means of electrical connection for wire terminations. If you’re the belt-and-suspenders sort, you can solder after crimping.
https://www.cruisingworld.com/how/crimp-or-solder/

I’ve heard that vibrations on a boat can work harden a wire where it enters the solder. I would think the heat shrink would prevent that. I never used those butt connectors but I did sell them in my store. The heat shrink with adhesive crimp connectors sold best.
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Old 09-30-2022, 06:58 PM   #4
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Why does ABYC exclude solder as the sole means of electrical connection for wire terminations?
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Old 09-30-2022, 07:34 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeadedToTexas View Post
Why does ABYC exclude solder as the sole means of electrical connection for wire terminations?
It has no mechanical strength
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Old 09-30-2022, 07:37 PM   #6
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I have seen these butt connectors but a good crimp with the right tools are far superior then anyrhing solder for boat wiring. Solder is for pipes and circut boards.
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Old 09-30-2022, 07:48 PM   #7
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Quote:
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Why does ABYC exclude solder as the sole means of electrical connection for wire terminations?
Probably because if it gets hot it can melt the solder and there isnít a mechanical connection. Also solder can cause the stranded wire to become hard at the solder.
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Old 09-30-2022, 07:49 PM   #8
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I'll bet I could solder a butt and it would take more pull to break it than a crimp.
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Old 09-30-2022, 07:54 PM   #9
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I have used them on several things (non boat items). They do work. On some I had problems getting the heat right and melted through the shrink plastic exposing the soldered wire. But that was just an issue of heat and patience. I didnt get a great feeling from them. The Chinese butt splices and terminals that are crimp style with the shrink tube already attached like the Wirefy, used along with the appropriate crimper IMO is still much preferred.

I could see myself using them on very small gauge wire where crimping can be a bit difficult.
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Old 09-30-2022, 09:55 PM   #10
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I'll bet I could solder a butt and it would take more pull to break it than a crimp.
If done correctly, both will have about the same strength but the solder
will weaken when hot enough.
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Old 10-01-2022, 12:21 AM   #11
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I think hopcar has it right. The concern is that soldered wire become rigid and vibration could cause it to break. Maybe the heat shrink over the soldered connection would prevent this. Now just convince ABYC so your surveyor won't complain.
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Old 10-01-2022, 12:37 AM   #12
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Why would you use something that doesnít meet ABYC standards? It isnít an issue using approved crimped butt connectors. It is really easy to do it correctly so why not?
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Old 10-01-2022, 01:28 AM   #13
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Why would you use something that doesnít meet ABYC standards? It isnít an issue using approved crimped butt connectors. It is really easy to do it correctly so why not?
I donít really remember ABYCís reason on soldered connections. I seem to remember something about vibrations but I never really concerned myself as crimp was approved and solder was not. Nothing is easier than the crimp so I never worried about the why.

OP probably thought he had found an easier better method for butt splicing and was unaware of ABYCís stance on soldered connections. Canít blame someone for trying to upgrade their work.
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Old 10-01-2022, 01:47 AM   #14
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I use the approved crimps with heat shrink and a high dollar ratchet crimper. But I still think a soldered joint (with a sleeve, not just twisted) is a superior connection. For small gauge stuff I like molex pins and housings.
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Old 10-01-2022, 09:54 AM   #15
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For the best info on marine wire termination I refer to Rod's (TF's commercial member CMS) excellent investigation and conclusions. He includes a section on solder vs crimp that some will never agree with but he even references AMP’s internal “Fundamentals of Connector Design” course.

https://marinehowto.com/marine-wire-termination/

I'd love to see a comparable study that supports soldering vs crimping but doubt anyone can provide a link
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Old 10-01-2022, 10:47 AM   #16
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From the article Don posted the link to.

“The terminated conductor then does not have the flexure strength characteristic of strand wire, and should behave more like solid wire which fails quickly in flexure testing“

Once the stranded wire is soldered, it becomes solid wire at that point and is not as flexible.
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Old 10-01-2022, 11:17 AM   #17
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This anecdote does not apply to the butt splice question but is solder related:

My last boat had a 24V bow thruster powered from the ER with beefy 00
cable. The installer had soldered the cables into the copper terminals at the thruster.
This worked fine for years.
While on a harbor cruise I lost steering due to a leaking hydraulic cylinder.
I used the thruster as a steering aid to get back to the dock and, not
surprisingly, really heated up the thruster motor. We made it back to our
dock where the thruster failed completely. I feared the worst but when I
looked at the motor, it was fine but one of the power cables had desoldered itself and fallen away.

I got a large cable crimping tool and crimped that cable. The motor was fine.
The steering cylinder just needed a set of seals - another straightforward fix.
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Old 10-01-2022, 01:36 PM   #18
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My favorite has always been the ray-chem environmental splices. They are mechanically crimped and have a slide over heat shrink sleeve that seals it up nicely. Been using for years, never had a problem.
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Old 10-01-2022, 09:05 PM   #19
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Solder/Crimp & Seal Butt Connectors

Solder/crimp & seal butt connectors. They are pricey.

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Old 10-01-2022, 09:41 PM   #20
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Quote:
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My favorite has always been the ray-chem environmental splices. They are mechanically crimped and have a slide over heat shrink sleeve that seals it up nicely. Been using for years, never had a problem.
Those are still the standard on aircraft wiring repairs. Nothing better, especially for small wire. Some of the new Chinese crimp/shrink tube is almost as good.
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