Vitrifrigo refer- AC/DC or just DC?

[Pat T]

I have ripped out my old cold plate and going to install a Vitrifrigo 180 drawer type fridge/freezer. Have to option of powering AC and DC or just DC. If I install the AC/DC way then I must install an AC to DC (24 V) converter somewhere in my ER. To do that I have to install a 3 prong outlet so I can plug this thing in. DC power also runs into this box. When on shore power it runs AC and when off shore power it automatically switches to DC. One issue is that the converter is not guaranteed to work at temps over 104 F. Assuming I can hit 104 F I guess I can get around that by not turning on my AC circuit breaker until the ER has cooled down properly. Seems neat but its a lot more work to install the AC/DC route.
Or, I just run some 10 gage wire from my house battery bank, add a CB and run the frig on 12 VDC. Afterall the battery charger is always on when I'm on shore power anyway. Then I don't have to worry about ER temperature and flipping the CB on after it cools down. This is the simple way.
Your thoughts?
Thanks.

 

[jgwinks]

For simplicity I'd do the DC only. Had that on the last two boats and it worked fine. Just need a good battery charger that can keep ahead of the fridge and any other DC loads that would be on for when you're plugged in. On the last sailboat I had 300 watts of solar that would outrun the fridge on a sunny day, but if course the batteries would go down at night. That boat was kept in a mooring so hardly ever plugged in, we ran the generator about an hour a day to make up the difference with our 50 amp charger. With shore power, you'll be fine.

 

[tiltrider1]

I bet the compressor is DC. The AC DC model probably just converts the AC to DC. You can accomplish this with your battery charger when tied to the dock or on Generator.

 

[rslifkin]

I bet the compressor is DC. The AC DC model probably just converts the AC to DC. You can accomplish this with your battery charger when tied to the dock or on Generator.

Assuming it uses a Danfoss/Secop compressor like most modern marine fridges, the compressor is low voltage 3 phase AC. So it does power conversion regardless. But I do agree that there's rarely a need for an AC/DC fridge if you've got a decent electrical system.

 

[Bacchus]

In don't understand the tie in of ER temps...isnt thec AC/ DC converter part of the unit installed in the galley cabinetry? 110V AC outlet it installed near the unit not remote.
Regardless of which way you power it I would add a 12V muffin fan for cooling the cabinet / condenser coil. There are terminal on the control for this option and powers a fan when the compressor runs.
I have not installed mine yet but have the fan in hand and will I b stall before next season.

 

[Pete Meisinger]

I really love having AC/DC refrigeration, although I often turn off the DC operation at night at anchor just to keep the batteries a little stronger on longer stays between adding AC either through shore power or genny.

MY refrigerator is getting old and AC/DC refrigerators are pricey but worth it. I'll buy one when the time comes

pete

 

[Comodave]

Nothing wrong with either one. One thing as to the DC wiring. Measure the round trip distance and look up the 3% voltage drop wiring size. Then I like to go one size larger. It is a small one time cost but then forever you get the best voltage possible to the refer. And everything runs better on good voltage.

 

[Pat T]

In don't understand the tie in of ER temps...isnt thec AC/ DC converter part of the unit installed in the galley cabinetry? 110V AC outlet it installed near the unit not remote.
Regardless of which way you power it I would add a 12V muffin fan for cooling the cabinet / condenser coil. There are terminal on the control for this option and powers a fan when the compressor runs.
I have not installed mine yet but have the fan in hand and will I b stall before next season.

Thanks Don. Unfortunately the converter unit is a separate item. It came with the fridge if you should want the AC power option.
https://inverterservicecenter.com/s...XaPujtCdQWrP9JubHe41V5XOkV4sugKhoC0j0QAvD_BwE
And I can not fit it in the cabinet or near it. Just no room thus it has to go below which is in the ER. So you can see my dilemma. It's just looking easier to go strictly DC.
The fridge has it's own muffin fan, hoping it will suffice but I can always add one later for the cabinet.

 

[Pat T]

Nothing wrong with either one. One thing as to the DC wiring. Measure the round trip distance and look up the 3% voltage drop wiring size. Then I like to go one size larger. It is a small one time cost but then forever you get the best voltage possible to the refer. And everything runs better on good voltage.

Agree Dave. I like the safety factor.